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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

Old 01-05-2019, 11:39 AM
  #2021  
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I would not use a long threaded SS rod. Want to use tube for strength in compression. Agreed that galvanized would last way long enough. Can use SS tube with threaded ends tig'd in. Want enough threads to be able to set rudder toe-in.
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by one4uf View Post
She's coming along nicely, Memco. I've been following the thread since the start. I know at one point, you'd had a 4th of July goal one year. That's obviously changed as things have moved forward, but do you currently have any sort of splash goal?
Thatís a very good question. Iíve been pretty tight lip about my splash goal. A few people on my thread want me to rush things just so I can get it in the water. Iíve come this far taking my time doing things the right way therefore I donít see the purchase of rushing now. After 6 or 7 years that Iíve been working on this boat I still enjoy and look forward to going outside working on her. I no the boat will never be perfect TO OTHERS but when Iím done it will be perfect TO ME.

So to answer your question," Do you currently have any sort of splash goal," óó I donít have a physical month/date when the boat will be back in the water again but, I will say she will be in the water a lot sooner then others may think. <óóó- I donít want to tease you with that simple answer so Iíll go a little further in depth with my answer. For the Forth of July 2019 me and my wife/kids will be out on the water watching the fireworks from the boat. I will be out several times before the Forth of July so I can test the entire boat out. The first time I take the boat out I want have the aft deck in place. I will have all structural components in place within the aft deck area that help keeps the boat physically together but no aft deck. I want to be able to keep everything open so I can see everything for the first test. I also donít want to seal the aft deck up and then run into problems during my first boat ride/test and have to tear it all back out again. The fly bridge station want be working also when I take the boat out for the first time, just the wheelhouse station.
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by NedLloyd View Post


Traditional (because it is inexpensive and will last more than a lifetime) is just galvanized waterpipe with the clevises screwed on the ends.
NedLloyd, if this was your project what would you do about the rudder system and what materials would you use to link them together? How does your rudder system work on your boat? Would you use a galvanized threaded pipe from your local hardware store?

Last edited by 28memco; 01-06-2019 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 01-05-2019, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Corndog38 View Post
I would not use a long threaded SS rod. Want to use tube for strength in compression. Agreed that galvanized would last way long enough. Can use SS tube with threaded ends tig'd in. Want enough threads to be able to set rudder toe-in.
Corndog, when you said ,"Agreed that galvanized would last way long enough," are you talking about a galvanized pipe from my local hardware store?
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Old 01-05-2019, 01:03 PM
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I would rec epoxy prime and all the wool repairs and painting before setting in the glass
Also I never use silicone. You will find out why when you try to paint the area you have caulked. Treating the surfaces with penetrating epoxy will protect the wood from continued weather damage. You don't have to sand down to bare wood now, just remove what is loose and treat. When you are ready for finishing layers, fillers, primer and paint you can remove the older finishes and prime.
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Old 01-06-2019, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post

NedLloyd, if this was your project what would you do about the rudder system and what materials would you use to link them together? How does your rudder system work on your boat? Would you use a galvanized threaded pipe from your local hardware store?
For a steering system I see you have three choices. The existing system, a single push -pull cable system (Teleflex), or hydraulic.

The steering system on my boat is a ďTeleflexĒ type cable from the helm to the starboard rudder and then a galvanized pipe tie bar between the two rudders.

I know your current is rather rusty looking, but was it functioning? (I went back and reviewed the pictures)
If you have decided for something different I think I would look into a hydraulic system. Once the helm and steering ram are figured out and installed it is just a matter of running the hoses.
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Old 01-06-2019, 06:58 PM
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Default Fuel tanks support braces









Before I put the saddle tanks back in I had to work on the fuel tanks support braces. Overall the braces was in good condition for them being as old as they are. The only thing that held the braces in place was two nails with ribs/spikes along the nails that donít allow them to back out. Even though the nails with ribs/spikes didnít allow for any backing out over time they didnít do a good job keeping each brace securely in place. Every brace wobbled around. It wasnít easy removing the braces because of the nails with ribs/spikes. Everyone was removed, sanded, repaired or rebuilt, and epoxy/mil fiber clamped in place.

Once the saddle fuel tanks are in place I will be building new braces for the other side of each saddle tank. The braces for the other side of each tank will not be epoxy/mil fiber clamped in place. Two bolts/nuts/washers will hold them in place. The reason Iím not going to epoxy/mil fiber clamped them in place because if I ever need to remove the fuel tanks the only thing I have to do is unbolt one side of the fuel tank braces, remove all the unbolted braces, and pull the tanks up. The large aft deck hatches will be larger enough to allow the tanks to pass through.
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Old 01-06-2019, 07:01 PM
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Old 01-06-2019, 07:06 PM
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Old 01-06-2019, 07:07 PM
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Old 01-06-2019, 07:09 PM
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Old 01-06-2019, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by NedLloyd View Post
For a steering system I see you have three choices. The existing system, a single push -pull cable system (Teleflex), or hydraulic.

The steering system on my boat is a “Teleflex” type cable from the helm to the starboard rudder and then a galvanized pipe tie bar between the two rudders.

I know your current is rather rusty looking, but was it functioning? (I went back and reviewed the pictures)
If you have decided for something different I think I would look into a hydraulic system. Once the helm and steering ram are figured out and installed it is just a matter of running the hoses.
The old cable/pulley steering system that use to be in my boat did work but as you can see from the pictures just about every part was rusty and needed to be replaced. Since my old steering system needed to be replace I decided to remove it and update the steering with hydraulic. But my concern right now is how I’m going to connect both rudders together without using the current system that was in place (ball joints/car parts). I really like the idea that was mentioned on my thread ——one long stainless steel bar that connects both rudders and drill a hole in one of the rudder arms for the hydraulic ram. Even though a stainless steel bar will last I believe a threaded galvanized bar from my local hardware store will probably out live me if maintained properly (Coated occasionally with corrosion X). Looks like I’ll be making a trip to the hardware store for a thread galvanize pipe.

Last edited by 28memco; 01-06-2019 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:08 PM
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I think you are going to regret the galvanised metal part on a saltwater boat.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by doradohunter View Post
I think you are going to regret the galvanised metal part on a saltwater boat.
You don’t think it will hold up over time coated in Corrosion X? There’s nothing on my boat when they built it made out of Marine grade parts (other than brass screws) and it lasted over time. The rudder bar that was in place before I removed it isn’t stainless steel and it doesn’t have any rust on it.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:16 PM
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No I dont think it will hold up. Today's steel is not what it was years ago when that boat was built. Mild steel and good epoxy paint would be a cheaper easier option. What's the length between the two rudders. I may have some stainless tubing laying around. I could weld one up. You buy the heim joints.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by doradohunter View Post
No I dont think it will hold up. Today's steel is not what it was years ago when that boat was built. Mild steel and good epoxy paint would be a cheaper easier option. What's the length between the two rudders. I may have some stainless tubing laying around. I could weld one up. You buy the heim joints.
What state do you live in? Hold on, Iím going outside to measure.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post

What state do you live in? Hold on, I’m going outside to measure.
Alabama. Used to live over there off Normady Blvd. So glad to be out of that town.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by doradohunter View Post
No I dont think it will hold up. Today's steel is not what it was years ago when that boat was built. Mild steel and good epoxy paint would be a cheaper easier option. What's the length between the two rudders. I may have some stainless tubing laying around. I could weld one up. You buy the heim joints.
From the center of the port rudder arm hole to the center of the starboard rudder arm hole is 54 3/8 inches. I also posted pictures of my old helm joints. Can you tell me where I would buy two new ones and what sizes?

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Old 01-06-2019, 08:44 PM
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Let me check on what I have at the shop. If I've got some stainless long enough i can weld you one up. I know i have mild steel and you can powdercoat that if I cant get the stainless one done.
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Old 01-06-2019, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by doradohunter View Post
Alabama. Used to live over there off Normady Blvd. So glad to be out of that town.
LOL Are you glad to be out of Jacksonville,Fl or are you glad to be away from Normandy Blvd? Where about off of Normandy Blvd did you use to live? I use to work at fire station 10 and 22 which covers certain parts of Normandy Blvd.
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