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Cranking with deep cycle battery?

Old 08-18-2011, 06:11 PM
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Default Cranking with deep cycle battery?

Hi,
Long story short, I have a 2006 Yamaha F150 that the cranking battery started leaking acid so I replaced it. Put the battery in the boat but the motor will not turn over. Sounds just like a bad battery. Got to looking closer at the new battery and see it is a "deep cycle" battery. Put my multi meter on the new battery and it reads 12.71 so the battery is hot. Now my question.....could my problem be that I should be using a true cranking battery rather than a deep cycle battery?

The new battery is an Interstate model SRM-27. The specs are:
CCA 600
MCA 750
RC 160

According to the owners manual the motor requires a minimum of:
CCA 512
MCA 675
RC 182

Looks like the CCA and MCA requirements are met but the battery is short on the RC.

Would you go back and demand a cranking battery in place of the deep cycle or am I making something out of nothing?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Charlie
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:16 PM
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If it doen't turn over at all check for polarity and solid connections. You should get something when you crank it over.
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:17 PM
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I would think that the battery you bought should at least turn the motor over. Perhaps a fuse blew in the process due to the leaking battery? As I understand it, the deep cycle vs cranking battery is just the thickness of the metal plates within the battery, which allows the charge to be held for a longer time. Just my thoughts.
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:18 PM
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That battery should crank your engine. You have other issues. Check the voltage while trying to crank. Does the voltage go to almost nothing? If so then battery is bad or needs a charge. Does the voltage only drop slightly? If so then you likely have loose/corroded connections.
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:42 PM
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The motor will turn over a couple of times. Like I said it sounds like a dying (not dead) battery. If I had polarity problems I would think the motor would not even turn over.Likewise if I had blown a fuse the motor would probably not even turn over.

To be on the safe side I have attached a picture of my wiring. Please check to see if anything looks out of place. I am not above making a mistake like this.

Thanks for the help and advice.

Charlie
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:03 PM
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OK, Baypro21, I put the meter on the battery then tried to crank the motor again. Before I tried cranking it, the meter read 12.71. The motor turned over a time or two and during that time the meter read 5.0. When I turned the key off, the meter went back to 12.5.

Do you think I have a bad battery?

Does my wiring look OK?

Thanks again for your help.

Charlie
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Old 08-18-2011, 07:25 PM
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How's the water level in the battery? If it's fine the battery is dead.
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:37 PM
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Is that how the wiring was set up before? I dont know how other people wire stuff but I never ever put anything black on a hot wire. No matter if the wire is red ive seen red wire used for grounds plenty of times.
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:12 PM
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Why are there three black (negative) wires and four red (positive) wires?

Are the wing nuts tight?
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:33 PM
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It's a bad battery. The voltage is way too low to crank the engine. You may have a bad cell. Take it back and have them test it.

Cranking with a deep cycle is not something you should do all the time, but once in a while won't hurt the battery, but really it should be a starting battery. Starting batteries are designed to released large amounts of current (amps) all at once while maintaining over 12 volts. Deep cycle batteries are not designed to do this because of the much thicker plates. They release current much more slowly but will maintain their voltage for much much longer periods of time than a starting battery.
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Old 08-19-2011, 06:22 AM
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Captater-plenty of water in battery and like I said the meter reads 12.7 with no load so I assume the battery is hot.

Fishing Magician- I believe this is how the battery was set up before. I posted the pic hoping that if I was wrong, someone would point that out. You said "I never ever put anything black on a hot wire. No matter if the wire is red ive seen red wire used for grounds plenty of times" I am not sure I understand. Can you clarify this for me? All of my electronics and bilge work so I assume the wiring for them is OK. Since the motor will turn over a couple of times I assumed the large cables we OK as well. Is my logic correct?

The Good Life-I can't answer this question. To the best of my knowledge (limited) this is the way it was rigged at the factory (Ranger). Yes the nuts are tight.

Thanks everyone for your advice.

Charlie
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Old 08-19-2011, 07:13 AM
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I don't see where the battery was charged for 24 hours prior to install. You might want to do that.
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Old 08-19-2011, 08:35 AM
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I'll bet it's a bad battery, take it back. While you are at it, get rid of the wing nuts and replace 'em with ss nylock nuts!
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:29 AM
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I agree, take the battery back for testing/replacement. A bad battery can show full voltage with no load, but one you load it voltage goes to crap.
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:32 AM
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OK guys, I took the battery back to the dealer and he said it had a bad cell. Exchanged it for a cranking battery. That's all good but now I am afraid to connect the wires to the new battery until I can get confirmation from someone who knows more about this than me (most everyone) that my connections are proper. I fear that if they are not, the new battery will be damaged when I hook it up.

I have been told that the original wiring job was not done properly and that the only wires I should have going to the battery is the positive and negative for the motor. Was told all other wires should be routed through the switch box on the side wall of the battery box. I will address that problem another day. Right now I just want to get the motor started. It would be greatly appreciated if someone would tell me if I have a fatal flaw in the wiring in my picture.

Thanks for the help.

Charlie
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Old 08-19-2011, 09:46 AM
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Whoa, wait a minute, are you talking about a battery switch? If so, the engine positive goes to the common on the switch, not to the batt. The engine ground goes to the batt. The other larger gauge positives should go to the switch common as well. The 10/12 GA leads from the charger can stay on the batt...

Question. You have 2 what appear to be 6GA cables coming off the positive post. 1 I know is to feed the house. What's the other for?
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Old 08-19-2011, 10:56 AM
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Bad battery. I have 3 deep cycle batteries one designated to each motor and one as a house battery. Never had a problem with them starting my twin F250's
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ccm71118 View Post
Captater-plenty of water in battery and like I said the meter reads 12.7 with no load so I assume the battery is hot.
You may be showing 12.7v, but the battery may not have enough amps to crank the engine. You will need a load tester to verify if the battery holds enough amps to crank the battery.

Pull the battery and take it to any battery shop and ask them to load test it - it's a quick & simple procedure. With 12.7v, if the battery will not pass the load test, you will know it is bad.

If it passes, you have another problem. Have you checked the battery cable connections on the engine?
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:47 AM
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You don't need cranking batts at all.
Many of us don't use them.
SRM 27's are excellent batteries.
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Old 08-19-2011, 12:04 PM
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The bad cell certainly didn't help, but the SRM-27 are not just deep-cycle batteries , they are a pretty good combination starting and deep-cycle battery and probably a better choice than a plain starting battery if you don't have a separate house/electronics battery for use including when the engine is off. That size should have been fine for starting your engine too.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...e-battery.html
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