Dual Battery Setup~Starter and House-Accessories Always On

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Greetings-
I set up my system exactly like the attached schematic including the Yandina combiner. (Note I borrowed this schematic it is not my creation)

Starter battery is isolated for only engine starting. House battery is connected to post 2 of my switch and the Accessories/Console is also attached to post 2 on the switch. The only cable attached to common feed is directly to engine.

My issue is that as it is currently set up when the switch is in the "OFF" position the Accessories/Console is still energized. There is no position of the switch that closes this circuit. Obviously(!) since post 2 has a hot direct from house battery touching the 12v feed to the console.

I want to be able to isolate the starter battery AND be able to turn off power to console. Is this possible? It seems to me that this would require an additional switch between post 2 and house main breaker.

Any ideas?;?

(ADDED NOTE: THIS WIRING SCHEMATIC IS NOT CORRECT-READ THE WHOLE POST-DONT USE THIS SCHEMATIC TO ISOLATE HOUSE AND STARTER BATTERIES)

 

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The ONLY circuits that should go to either batt 1 or batt 2 posts are the float switch constant hots and the stereo memory lead. All the rest, including your engine positive, need to go to the common (switched) post...

As you can tell, you have some things backwards. If you have ANY lead attached to batt 1 or batt 2, it will always be energized...period. That's what the "common" is for. Turn off the switch, common goes dead...
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You have the wrong switch - you need a Blue Seas 5511E.
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Quote: You have the wrong switch - you need a Blue Seas 5511E.
http://bluesea.com/files/resources/i...eb_version.pdf



That is exactly what is required to solve my problem I currenlty have the "Guest" switch that came stock with my Parker 1801.

Awesome! and Thanks!
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If you want just get a standard on/off switch and be done with it. You don't need all the combiner switch and what not. And you're backwards as seabob said. Your bilge should be on the #2 terminal and your house positive on the common. Right now your switch controls if you're using only your house or starting battery for starting and house duties.
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Quote: Greetings-
I set up my system exactly like the attached schematic including the Yandina combiner. (Note I borrowed this schematic it is not my creation)
That's your problem, Your boat, and the boat belonging to the person who drew the schematic are wired wrong.

The simplest way is to have a simple On/Off switch for the starting circuit and another for the house circuit. Connect the combiner to the batteries and you're finished.

If you want to be able to combine the batteries for emergency starting, another On/OFF switch will do the trick or simply carry a jumper cable (you only need to connect the positive terminals together).
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Quote: That's your problem, Your boat, and the boat belonging to the person who drew the schematic are wired wrong.

The simplest way is to have a simple On/Off switch for the starting circuit and another for the house circuit. Connect the combiner to the batteries and you're finished.

If you want to be able to combine the batteries for emergency starting, another On/OFF switch will do the trick or simply carry a jumper cable (you only need to connect the positive terminals together).
The 5511E switch does exactly that, but combines all three switch functions into one switch, eliminating two switches and the associated cabling and labor.
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Sooner or later, boobs and electrons around water are gonna be trouble. When it comes to batteries, switches, combiners, isolators and all the other monkey mash folks come up with trying to find an idiot-proof setup - the simplest system that serves the purpose, properly maintained, causes the least amount of trouble in the long run ...
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Thanks all for your insights.

I ordered the 5511E switch yesterday. This is the cleanest solution to achieve my objective.

Quote: If you want just get a standard on/off switch and be done with it. You don't need all the combiner switch and what not. And you're backwards as seabob said. Your bilge should be on the #2 terminal and your house positive on the common. Right now your switch controls if you're using only your house or starting battery for starting and house duties.
Currenlty I have my bilge direct wired with fuse to the "+" post on house battery and also on a switch through the console 12v. This direct circuit to bilge is the only one I want to remain hot no matter which position my switch is set to. I like this method, though I know some dont see the need.
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spicoli,

See this diagram...


Damn, that's the second time I've posted that today...
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Thanks for the visual Seabob-Thats pretty much what I have going on...I think the "float switch" is incorporated into my bilge or at least damn near it proximity wise. I think this is standard opp procedure wired from factory at Parker...Ill post some pics when I get my Bluesea switch-I took the hit on overnight shipping as going out this weekend.
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