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Help - Yamaha 2 stroke oil reservoir issue

Old 05-09-2011, 06:38 PM
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Default Help - Yamaha 2 stroke oil reservoir issue

Wanted to get some input from you folks on this issue. I have a 1999 Yamaha 200hp two stroke. Started to get an alarm on Sat. - it was a constant beep. Discovered that the reservoir that is attached to the powerhead was down to the bottom line - once I added oil to that the alarm stopped. I had plenty of oil in the remote reservoir (in fact had added half a gallon a few days earlier. Started by pulling the reservoir - and checking for clogs in the supply lines and filter/screen - found none. Had my wife turn the motor over while I held my ear to the pump that is located at that remote reservoir - it was running, but only for 30 to 45 seconds - and the oil level at the powerhead didn't change. Pulled the hose from the "out" side of the pump and started the motor again - pump runs, no oil pumps out.
So - - does that convince me that the pump is bad or is there something I'm missing?

Also, the shop manual indicates that i should have an "emergency switch" near the engine oil reservoir that allows oil to be manually transferred - couldn't locate that - could it be that the 1999 doesn't have that switch?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-09-2011, 06:47 PM
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I can tell you this. When I emptied my oil tank (bought boat used) there was a sludge about 1/2" thick in the bottom of the oil reservoir. My boat is 10 years old and was full of Quicksilver oil. May or may not be your problem just something to think about.
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Old 05-09-2011, 06:49 PM
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My 1997 has a momentary toggle switch near the reservoir on the motor so I would think yours should too. Obviously either the pump isn't moving anything or there is a clog somewhere. Not much help I know but you just have to track it down.
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Old 05-09-2011, 06:54 PM
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So do you guys think it is less likely the pump and more like a clog?
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:02 PM
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I had a pump do the same thing a couple weeks ago, I pulled it apart and the diaphram was bad on the inside, only option is to replace the pump ( $130.00) . also put a new filter on while you have it apart ( they are known for clogging).
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Old 05-09-2011, 07:43 PM
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replace the filter at the remote tank
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:25 PM
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Does your oil tank look like tha attached picture? The pump is supposed to run until the secondary resovoir is topped off.....

Inspect Item # 6 and Item #9 Easy to confirm.....with the secondary oil tank Item # 23 (engine mounted) sending an empty signal Item # 24 (that is the float sensor on the removable cap) to the primary Item #2 (main oil tank) to pump Item # 9the motor is supposed to run, if the motor does not run (only last about 3-5 years) try tapping it with the butt of a screw driver (remember taping on the starter on your first car to get the bendix to release) If it groans to life then new pump.

I paid around 120.00 USD for the pump and in-line mender/filter (it looks like a hose barb near the tank Item #6)

The pump is held in with a rubber slip grommet (Item # 10) and will pull off of the tank.
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Last edited by Mardi-Gras; 05-09-2011 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 05-09-2011, 09:05 PM
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My 1998 yami 250 had the oil switch its black on or near the oil tank on motor- you should be able to turn on swtch (you have to hold it up ) and oil should fill upper tank. I had your very same issue
I replaced the pump and in line filter . That fixed it as my pump was toast. I have a used part #15 if you need it-for cost of postage-I sold that motor in 2007 and put a yami f250 on.
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Old 05-09-2011, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Shin-Dig View Post
replace the filter at the remote tank
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Old 05-09-2011, 09:48 PM
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Default I have one .

You can hot wire the pump to check with a battery or booster pack to test ,if it is the pump which it sounds like i have a bran new on i can sell you for $ 100 . I had one i got for a spare for my ox66 2001s because i had one go bad once ( did not want to be court 100 mils off if the other one went bad .If you would like to talk send me a PM and i will give you my #er . Anthony P.S. sold the motors thats Y i don't need any more .
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:58 AM
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Take the remote fill tank off of the bracket and start engine. While at the remote tank, detatch and attach the grey wire going to the pump and loosen the pump inside the tank (Moving the parts around. Sometimes the electrical wiring or hose to the tank gets kinked. Listen for the remote tank pump (#9) to hum, thats when its pumping to the engine. Yes the manual fill button is on the forward side of the onboard tank. Its a grey button. If none of this works ---change pump (#9) and the inline filter (You will need to do this inevitably). This happened to me two weeks ago, alarm was goin off, I went to the remote tank and loosened the tank and the hose and massaged the pump and checked all electrical---addded a little dialectric greese to the connection at the top of the tank---BINGO---back on my way. This happens maybe once every two years when I add/remove/relocate any wires that are going to the engines, so I know its kinking somewhere or I am getting a bad batch of the #9 pumps or I am getting some crud in with the oil in the tank (All possible).
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:18 AM
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Verify tha the main tank does not fill when using the overide toggle swith on the motor.
If it doesn't and you do hear the pump going, You will need to pull the tank out. Disconnect the sender wires and the pump wires. Clip the zip wrap on the oil hose and pull off the hose. Remove the bolt holding the top bracket strap, remove the strap and lift up the tank. When it is out, empty the contents into a clean container and have a look at the bottom of the tank for sludge. If none, remove the filter/screen located on the back side of the tank. See if that is plugged, you should be able to blow through it. ( If the tank is not sludged up, you can reuse the oil you saved after you fix the problem.
Often if the pump (on the ****** looks clean on the outside it is OK. Bad pumps are ofter pretty corroded and rusted.
You will need affew small zip ties to put back together.
If all is clean and you heard the pump run, the pump is bad. Hopefully it is just gunk or the filter.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:16 AM
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And here is one more thread I had pasted a while back when working on my old 150.TXRA...

oil not transferring to engine - 150 yam 2000 - iboats Boating Forums
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Old 05-10-2011, 04:31 PM
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Thank you to everyone for the responses. I checked for the gunk, clogs, etc. pump runs but just for 30 seconds or so - no oil comes out.

I must be blind - i can not locate the damn manual switch (and my much more patient wife tried to find it too)
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Old 05-10-2011, 04:34 PM
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35Contender - can you explain to me how to hot wire that pump - maybe i can get it to run that way.
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Old 05-10-2011, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by stickman4037 View Post
I must be blind - i can not locate the damn manual switch (and my much more patient wife tried to find it too)
It does not even resemble a switch..it is encased in a grey protective rubber cover..and just looks like a grey blob up high, near the top back center of the motor..mounted on a little bracket...

Or, just looking at the diagram of your motor..is it not on part number 38 in the diagram? Doesn't that look like a switch mounted on that unit??
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:30 PM
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http://www.marinepartsman.com/Yamaha...eshooting.html

the switch should be mounted in the ECU cover on rear of motor
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:15 PM
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Well - I just looked closer at the diagram above, that isn't exactly the 1999 200hp pic. I took a look at the pic on boats.net for my year and model and that item #38 does not exist. I'm not saying the switch doesn't exist - just not in that design. But i appreciate the help.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:33 PM
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Hey stickman can I piggy back on your thread with a similar problem?

I have a 2002 200 HPDI and had my oil warning go off and start shutting down the RPM's this weekend. My remote tank is about 1/3 to 1/2 full so plenty of oil in it. I was running about 5K in some slightly choppy water and noticed the motor shutting down. I have a flats boat so I sit and can't see the oil bars on the tach without standing up. I shut it down for a minute, alarm stopped, cranked her up and no problems. Ran for a little while bumped it up to 5K again to see if it was a fluke and she started to shut down again. I shut it down and cranked again, no issue. I then headed back to another spot running about 4K. During this run I had the left bar full, the middle bar flashing and no third bar and no alarm or shut down. Heading back to the ramp I ran at 3K and all three bars were full the entire time and no alarms. The good news is I know my alarm works, the bad news is I don't know what caused this? I check the motor yesterday and the engine oil tank is to the top line. Could a clogged filter cause it to pass less oil due to higher demand?

Any help is appreciated.
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Old 05-10-2011, 06:48 PM
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always replace little filter before doing any more diagnostics will fix 90% of oil transfer problems on a yamaha
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