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Chris Craft Sea Hawk - now upgrading, restoring and rebuilding

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Chris Craft Sea Hawk - now upgrading, restoring and rebuilding

Old 12-26-2010, 06:03 AM
  #21  
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as you can see in this pic it was filty from sitting but noticed the deep sides and plenty of fishing room , This will be my fourth boat I restore/fix up I steam cleaned it the day I got back in NH and most of the white came back.
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Old 12-26-2010, 08:29 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by GSP View Post
Karl,
I checked out your thread on the Mako site, grabbed a few pics for my own Seahawk / Scorpion library. Keep us posted on how the improvements come along.
Have you tried out the rebuilt 250 yet?
Hi,

No, actually haven't been able to try it. Got it delivered to Sweden in early Nov, and still missing some bits and pieces for rigging. Going over to visit my sister in Oakland, CA over New Year's and some parts that I've bought off of Ebay are still with her (new Yamaha controls, Seastar cylinder, prop etc).

Right now it's so freaking cold that starting an outboard is out of the question. It was -13 F when I was out at the barn where I keep the boat this Thursday...

Latest improvement is the cuddy door, which has been completely sanded (someone had varnished it, and the varnish was peelin off). Looks fantastic now!

Karl
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Old 12-26-2010, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ktjernstrom View Post
Hi,

Nice to see some other guys out there restoring old Sea Hawks. I've been working on my 1990 216 Sea Hawk on and off for about a year and a half now.

Bought it real cheap off of Ebay from Florida, and took it back home to Sweden.

So far, I've replaced transom, deck and stringers. In the rear, I've installed Seablock scuppers and replaced the lousy bilge access hatch with a large rectangualar fully waterproof one.

Original chairs are out, and I've installed a stainless leaning post instead.

During this winter, I'm repowering with a Yamaha F250 that's just been fully rebuilt. Will also be rewiring, refurbishing all wood trim and some other odds and ends.

Hope to be able to launch May/June something.

Some pics and info here: http://www.classicmako.com/forum/top...TOPIC_ID=26761

Regards,

Karl
You and I have the same boat. How did you put the rectangular hatch access in? Are they on hinges or completely removable? I'm trying to replace my rod gunel storage boxes. Can't find the exact ones. I had a fiberglass hard top on mine when I bought it. It looks great. I love the boat except for the low transom. I'm trying to fix that problem this Spring along with replacing the terrible rear scuppers. I noticed a drain just under your helm. Did you put that in? My boat doesn't have that. Does it drain overboard or into the bilge. Feel free to send a bunch of more pics. I love seeing the work your doing. You can view mine under my photo album. Good luck to you.
Keith
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by striperman24 View Post
You and I have the same boat. How did you put the rectangular hatch access in? Are they on hinges or completely removable? I'm trying to replace my rod gunel storage boxes. Can't find the exact ones. I had a fiberglass hard top on mine when I bought it. It looks great. I love the boat except for the low transom. I'm trying to fix that problem this Spring along with replacing the terrible rear scuppers. I noticed a drain just under your helm. Did you put that in? My boat doesn't have that. Does it drain overboard or into the bilge. Feel free to send a bunch of more pics. I love seeing the work your doing. You can view mine under my photo album. Good luck to you.
Keith
Hi,

The rectangular access hatch is a 13x24" T-H Marine Sure Seal, that was installed while changing out all the deck plywood (was soft in spots, so I replaced it more or less all the way up to the front seats). It's on hinges and opens inwards, so as to fold flat and not be restricted by the engine. The access to the bilge is fantastic (feels like you can almost step down there now), and since it's fully waterproof it feels a lot safer than the pie hatch that was there from factory.

I have to drains by the helm, one on each side. They drain overboard (you can see the thru hulls on some of the exterior pics. They look factory, but canīt say for sure. They were a bit tricky to get to though, had to remove parts of the interior. I replaced all through hulls with stainless ones (the old plastic ones were incredibly brittle, and some hoses had broken off completely) and replaced all the hoses.

My rear scuppers had a much larger opening than most Sea Hawks I've seen, but were most likely part of the reason my transom was in such a terrible state, as they didn't seal the wood at all. When replacing the transom, I kept the size of the opening, but installed Seablock scupper lids instead. They work well when backing up and drain very fast. Curious to see how they'll work with another 150 lbs on the transom...

Replacement rod boxes are available at chrisparts.com, although they're pretty expensive. I've made some repairs on mine and will be sanding and repainting them during the winter. Plan is to also repaint the footrest, which will also get some new teak trim, and redo parts of the instrument panel.

Karl
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:32 AM
  #25  
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Drem,
Let see some pics of her all cleaned up.
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Old 12-26-2010, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ktjernstrom View Post
Hi,

The rectangular access hatch is a 13x24" T-H Marine Sure Seal, that was installed while changing out all the deck plywood (was soft in spots, so I replaced it more or less all the way up to the front seats). It's on hinges and opens inwards, so as to fold flat and not be restricted by the engine. The access to the bilge is fantastic (feels like you can almost step down there now), and since it's fully waterproof it feels a lot safer than the pie hatch that was there from factory.

I have to drains by the helm, one on each side. They drain overboard (you can see the thru hulls on some of the exterior pics. They look factory, but canīt say for sure. They were a bit tricky to get to though, had to remove parts of the interior. I replaced all through hulls with stainless ones (the old plastic ones were incredibly brittle, and some hoses had broken off completely) and replaced all the hoses.

My rear scuppers had a much larger opening than most Sea Hawks I've seen, but were most likely part of the reason my transom was in such a terrible state, as they didn't seal the wood at all. When replacing the transom, I kept the size of the opening, but installed Seablock scupper lids instead. They work well when backing up and drain very fast. Curious to see how they'll work with another 150 lbs on the transom...

Replacement rod boxes are available at chrisparts.com, although they're pretty expensive. I've made some repairs on mine and will be sanding and repainting them during the winter. Plan is to also repaint the footrest, which will also get some new teak trim, and redo parts of the instrument panel.

Karl
Karl,
Thanks for responding. Here is a pic of my dash. I completely re-did my dash with Teleflex Lido gauges. I had an acrylic shop make the dash. He heated the top to get the exact angle of the old one. It looks great. My favorite project so far. I have a 225 Mercury EFI offshore outboard. It weighs 418 lbs. Is yours a two stroke or four stroke ob? Thanks for your help. I also replace the built in tackle storage box with a new one made of starboard. I just did this about two months ago.
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Old 12-26-2010, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by striperman24 View Post
Karl,
Thanks for responding. Here is a pic of my dash. I completely re-did my dash with Teleflex Lido gauges. I had an acrylic shop make the dash. He heated the top to get the exact angle of the old one. It looks great. My favorite project so far. I have a 225 Mercury EFI offshore outboard. It weighs 418 lbs. Is yours a two stroke or four stroke ob? Thanks for your help. I also replace the built in tackle storage box with a new one made of starboard. I just did this about two months ago.
Yes, I saw your dash pics in your gallery. Looks really nice indeed! I haven't fully decided on what to do with my dash, but leaning towards trying to polish up the original grey upper dash section, and maybe flush mounting my Garmin 525S. Not fully made up my mind on that, though, considering risk of theft and all... The lower section (where the factory breakers are) will be replaced, either with teak or Starboard. Depending on which way I go, the Yamaha key panel and flush mounted controls will also have either teak or Starboard underneath.

How expensive was the acrylic dash? That could be an option... Is it sensitive to scratching?

When I bought the boat it had a 225 Yamaha SWSII Fuel Injected two stroke. New engine is an F250, four stroke. Hope to be in the low 50īs with that one.

Tackle storage box looks nice, did you buy that or fabricate it?

Karl
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Old 12-26-2010, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ktjernstrom View Post
Yes, I saw your dash pics in your gallery. Looks really nice indeed! I haven't fully decided on what to do with my dash, but leaning towards trying to polish up the original grey upper dash section, and maybe flush mounting my Garmin 525S. Not fully made up my mind on that, though, considering risk of theft and all... The lower section (where the factory breakers are) will be replaced, either with teak or Starboard. Depending on which way I go, the Yamaha key panel and flush mounted controls will also have either teak or Starboard underneath.

How expensive was the acrylic dash? That could be an option... Is it sensitive to scratching?

When I bought the boat it had a 225 Yamaha SWSII Fuel Injected two stroke. New engine is an F250, four stroke. Hope to be in the low 50īs with that one.

Tackle storage box looks nice, did you buy that or fabricate it?

Karl
Karl,
The dash cost me about $175. It is 1/4' thick so it's very tough and scratch resistant. I still have the original one too but the acrylic is much wider. I had it made that way to cover up the original opening. The tackle box was fabricated by fin addict marine (finaddictmarine.com). They did an awesome job. Do you still have the low transom or did you raise it? How much lower does the four stroke sink your transom?
What did you repair your rod gunnel boxes with? I think mine could be repaired since they are so expensive on chrisparts. The edges are cracked and some of the plastic has broken off the edges. I bought this boat in July and put alot of time and tlc into it. I love the ride but I have to make a permanent splash well due to water coming over the transom and creeping up into the deck. Love the boat other than that.
keith
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Old 12-26-2010, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by striperman24 View Post
Karl,
The dash cost me about $175. It is 1/4' thick so it's very tough and scratch resistant. I still have the original one too but the acrylic is much wider. I had it made that way to cover up the original opening. The tackle box was fabricated by fin addict marine (finaddictmarine.com). They did an awesome job. Do you still have the low transom or did you raise it? How much lower does the four stroke sink your transom?
What did you repair your rod gunnel boxes with? I think mine could be repaired since they are so expensive on chrisparts. The edges are cracked and some of the plastic has broken off the edges. I bought this boat in July and put alot of time and tlc into it. I love the ride but I have to make a permanent splash well due to water coming over the transom and creeping up into the deck. Love the boat other than that.
keith
OK, thanks. It really looks a bit more modern and classy with that wide dash. We'll see where I end up...

I haven't repowered yet. Sold my 225 2-stroke back in April/May, so boat's been sitting all summer. Enjoyed myself with my Yamaha SHO PWC instead... From what I've judged with the 2-stroke on, the boat's been sitting bow heavy (actually had a small bilge pump installed in the cabin), so I'm not overly concerned about the added weight of the 4-stroke. Then again, I mainly use my boat in the rather protected waters of the Swedish archipelago. No real offshore use, at least not until everything feels 100% sorted. When I bought the boat, it came with a 15 hp 4-stroke kicker, which actually weighs a bit more than the difference between the 225 SWS and the F250.

I thought about raising the transom 5" while I was at it, but I wasn't really ready to repower last summer, and was keen on getting her splashed.

Karl
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Old 12-26-2010, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by striperman24 View Post
What did you repair your rod gunnel boxes with? I think mine could be repaired since they are so expensive on chrisparts. The edges are cracked and some of the plastic has broken off the edges.
I used some leftovers from the transom job to fix some cracks in the inside corners. Still needs fairing though, but it works. Apparently, they're not made from UV-resistent plastic, that's why they crack...

Karl
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Old 12-26-2010, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ktjernstrom View Post
I used some leftovers from the transom job to fix some cracks in the inside corners. Still needs fairing though, but it works. Apparently, they're not made from UV-resistent plastic, that's why they crack...

Karl
what exactly did you use? to repair the rod gunnels? was it gelcoat, epoxy resin? Thanks. It may be easier to repair them rather than purchase two new ones. Let me see more pics when you get them. I don't think this boat was that popular. I don't see many of them on the water. You in the US or was it Sweden? Thanks,
Keith
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Old 12-27-2010, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by striperman24 View Post
what exactly did you use? to repair the rod gunnels? was it gelcoat, epoxy resin? Thanks. It may be easier to repair them rather than purchase two new ones. Let me see more pics when you get them. I don't think this boat was that popular. I don't see many of them on the water. You in the US or was it Sweden? Thanks,
Keith
Hi,

I repaired the cracks in the rod holders using fibreglass cloth and resin, on the inside (i.e. the side facing towards the hull). Now you can see the yellowish fibreglass, and that's what I plan to address by repainting it all. I'll take some pics of the rod holders when I pick them up at the barn.

I was looking for one on and off for a couple of years, before I found this one that was so cheap I was willing to chance it. It was an estate sale, and apparently hadn't been used much the last 6-7 years. The engine that came with it was a 2001 Yamaha, and only had 62 hours on it when I bought it summer of 2008. They appear to have been much more popular down in Florida, Alabama and those parts, and less so up in the Northeast. The nice ones are ususally up north, due to shorter season and less intense sun.

Here in Sweden, there are only about 15-20 or so, so it's a very rare boat. I've seen about 5 here in Stockholm, where I do most of my boating.

Karl
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Old 12-27-2010, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ktjernstrom View Post
Hi,

I repaired the cracks in the rod holders using fibreglass cloth and resin, on the inside (i.e. the side facing towards the hull). Now you can see the yellowish fibreglass, and that's what I plan to address by repainting it all. I'll take some pics of the rod holders when I pick them up at the barn.

I was looking for one on and off for a couple of years, before I found this one that was so cheap I was willing to chance it. It was an estate sale, and apparently hadn't been used much the last 6-7 years. The engine that came with it was a 2001 Yamaha, and only had 62 hours on it when I bought it summer of 2008. They appear to have been much more popular down in Florida, Alabama and those parts, and less so up in the Northeast. The nice ones are ususally up north, due to shorter season and less intense sun.

Here in Sweden, there are only about 15-20 or so, so it's a very rare boat. I've seen about 5 here in Stockholm, where I do most of my boating.

Karl
Thanks Karl,
I do like the boat. The hull has a great flare to it that really pushes the water away. Very minimal splash on the canvas with a little chop. I picked my boat up from a guy I work with at a marina. He sold it to me for $5500. How could I refuse that. It needed alot of tlc from sitting barely covered up for 3-4 years. This fall I thought I had a water logging problem. I had a fiberglass tech guy come over and he ruled it out. He said all boats are wet to some degree but didn't think I had and issue at all. One problem that I have is that the fiberglass inside of the rear storage boxes was cracking and chipping away. This caused the plywood foam underneath to get wet. I am planning to have that repaired this Winter/early Spring. I'm not as handy with fiberglass and resin as you are so I have to have someone who really knows what they are doing. Good luck with your boat. Send more pics when you finish your jobs.
Keith
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Old 12-27-2010, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by GSP View Post
Striperman,
What did the fiberglass guy say?

Karl,
I checked out your thread on the Mako site, grabbed a few pics for my own Seahawk / Scorpion library. Keep us posted on how the improvements come along.
Have you tried out the rebuilt 250 yet?
No water logging problem. He is going to repair the storage box areas and fix my scuppers. He said that all boats are wet to some degree but everything is solid. No weak spots. I am planning to make a splash well this early spring to keep the water coming over the transom contained to just that area. I have it ready to go but it just snowed 2 feet here and it's too cold to uncover and begin work. What model Sea Hawk do you own?
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Old 12-27-2010, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by SourDaze View Post
The foam is not original to that boat. I had an '89 213 CC Sea Hawk....GREAT freaking hull (GREAT HULL), no foam in that boat that I remember. I had stringer and transom damage from water in mine at the end of her life. Was quoted only about $5K to repair in 2004. Did you get a survey done before the purchase?

Honestly for $5,500 for a BMT that works and that hull isn't a bad deal. Personally, rather than meet with a fiberglass guy, I'd get a survey done and find out what areas of disrepair you need to address immediately, and work from there rather than messing around in that hatch. Just my opinion.
A little off the foam subject, but your comments as to a GREAT HULL are correct.
Mr. Genth made the V-20 WELLCRAFT famous during his reign at WELLCRAFT.
He then went to CHRIS CRAFT, as President and a partner, located right down the street from his old WELLCRAFT plant.
First order of business was a boat to compete with the V-20. Thus, the "211", "212" CHRIS was borne. One upsmanship over the V-20, and no one knew better than Mr. Genth how to address it all. A little longer, a few more refined features, a little more dropshear, essentually an improved V-20.
Your absolutely correct, it was a great hull.

Sorry about the offsubject comments.
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Old 12-27-2010, 12:13 PM
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Striperman,
I have a 1986 Scorpion 215. I bought it as a project boat, it essentially needs everything.
The dash and tackle box you had made make a big difference. Your boat looks like its in good shape from the pics.
Below are a couple of pics of my boat.

Mike C,
Its great when you add bits of history in these threads, I love learning about this boat. I recall you recently commented on the history of the Formula 233 hulls as well, very interesting.
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Old 12-27-2010, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by GSP View Post
Striperman,
I have a 1986 Scorpion 215. I bought it as a project boat, it essentially needs everything.
The dash and tackle box you had made make a big difference. Your boat looks like its in good shape from the pics.
Below are a couple of pics of my boat.

Mike C,
Its great when you add bits of history in these threads, I love learning about this boat. I recall you recently commented on the history of the Formula 233 hulls as well, very interesting.
Hey Mike,
Awesome boat. I would love to see more pics of it. It looks great. My boat is in really nice condition too. I could see the tackle box in yours. It looks good as well. Hopefully by the summer I will have everything completed that I want. Someone else posted about the history of the boat. It wasn't me but it was very interesting to hear. I'm replacing the Chris Craft plastic decals this Spring. I already have them. Just waiting for the warm weather. What size outboard do you have on yours? I like the bracket.
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Old 12-27-2010, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GSP View Post
Striperman,
I have a 1986 Scorpion 215. I bought it as a project boat, it essentially needs everything.
The dash and tackle box you had made make a big difference. Your boat looks like its in good shape from the pics.
Below are a couple of pics of my boat.

Mike C,
Its great when you add bits of history in these threads, I love learning about this boat. I recall you recently commented on the history of the Formula 233 hulls as well, very interesting.
GSP
Sorry, you're not mike. I just realized you were talking to both me and some one else named Mike.
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Old 12-27-2010, 01:07 PM
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Trust me, your boat is in waaaay better shape than mine. I removed the deck, stringers and gas tank. I have a rebuild thread going over at Reel Time, probably should get one going here. No more work on it until April when the snow drifts go away.
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Old 12-27-2010, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by striperman24 View Post
I'm replacing the Chris Craft plastic decals this Spring. I already have them. Just waiting for the warm weather.
Hi,

Where did you get the new decals, and how's much were they?

Thanks,
Karl
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