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How to remove / restore Chalky gelcoat! (3m only)

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How to remove / restore Chalky gelcoat! (3m only)

Old 08-16-2010, 09:17 PM
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Default How to remove / restore Chalky gelcoat! (3m only)

I've got my 22" Grady White that was just given to me (as explained in previous thread). The boat is a 1996 but has been left untouched on the sun for the past 2 years. All in all, the boat just doesn't shine anymore. I lightly scrubbed down the boat just to remove the dirt etc but the surface still leaves some chalk on your fingers when you rub over it...

My question is..... What is the correct way to totally restore the surface on this boat, inside and out... I would like to use only 3m Products (neighbor is a rep). I have heard to acid wash it, followed by a 3m 3 stage compound. The main thing is, depending on who I talk to, or who's working that day at west marine, I am told a totally different thing. Someone give me the correct way with 3M Products!!!! I don't mind putting in the man hours.

Will this gel coat be able to be shiny again?

Also, the "scum-line" just above the water line has left a light brown stain, what product do you recommend for this? I have been told regular old comit works, and also heard muriatic acid diluted with water.

I appreciate every ones help in advance,
Bobby
Old 08-16-2010, 09:35 PM
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For the scum line, use anything with oxcylic acid (Sno Bowl, Rust Aid, On Off, etc). Then you're gonna want something with abrasives in it to remove the old layer of oxidized gel coat (start off mild then try stronger abrasives if the mild ones don't work). Then just use wax or polish (polish as in sealant, not old style polish that is abrasive). You're neighbor should be able to tell you which products to use.
Old 08-16-2010, 09:50 PM
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As far as the gelcoat goes this is what I was thinking after doing some research....
1st. start with a thorough washing of the boat to remove surface dirt.
2nd. apply 3m Rubbing Compound with an orbital buffer
3rd. apply 3m Finesse-it II Glaze with buffer to restore shine and remove swirls
4th. finish off with 3m marine liquid wax
5th. repeat 4th

Question... Should I start off with an Acid wash? Or just a normal dish soap wash down......

Thanks, .. In advance
Old 08-16-2010, 10:29 PM
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You really need to know how bad the gel is. If it's 14yrs of abuse you may need to add some wet sanding and it's possible that won't do it if it's completely UV chalked. They also make a wipe on like Starbrite's Instant Glass Cote and PoliGlow as a last resort. I forget what it's called.
Old 08-16-2010, 10:41 PM
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NO ORBITAL BUFFER! It's a waste of time for this level of oxidation.

1. Wet sand with 3M 1000 grit to remove the heavy oxidation.
2. Use 3M Marine Super Duty Compound with a 100% wool buffing pad and a high speed polisher (2000 RPM)
3. Use 3M Marine Finesse It II with a foam polishing/finishing pad and a high speed polisher (2000 RPM)
4. 3M Marine Ultra performance paste wax

If you don't knwo what you're doing have a pro do it. It takes a lot of skill.

Last edited by ThreeLittleFish; 08-16-2010 at 10:52 PM.
Old 08-17-2010, 05:27 AM
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Just spend about $10 on a tub of Aquabuff and forget all of the 3M stuff, My Grady 282 was badly oxidized and after two apps of the more mild Aquabuff it shined like new and stayed that way, Also used it on my skiff with great results.
Old 08-17-2010, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by waynesworld View Post
Just spend about $10 on a tub of Aquabuff and forget all of the 3M stuff, My Grady 282 was badly oxidized and after two apps of the more mild Aquabuff it shined like new and stayed that way, Also used it on my skiff with great results.
I agree, why waste time and money with all the "steps", unless your neighbor is giving the stuff away.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...-gel-coat.html

I posted Aquabuff 1000 in that thread but I meant 2000F.
Old 08-17-2010, 06:13 AM
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Aquabuff????

Sounds good.

Looks like next year I will be trying aquabuff.
Old 08-17-2010, 06:21 AM
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Try the less drastic actions first. Sanding is last choice, acid wash is second last, compound is third and rubbing is next.
Try small areas with the less abrasive product made for fibergalss haze removal.
See what hand rubbing does on a small area and go from there.
Rotary polishers work better for heavilly oxidised surfaces but you need to be careful not to burn the finish.
Random orbital are a good second choice and prefered for less oxidized surfaces and less experienced users.
Old 08-17-2010, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by lostsinker View Post
Try the less drastic actions first. Sanding is last choice, acid wash is second last, compound is third and rubbing is next.
Try small areas with the less abrasive product made for fibergalss haze removal.
See what hand rubbing does on a small area and go from there.
Rotary polishers work better for heavilly oxidised surfaces but you need to be careful not to burn the finish.
Random orbital are a good second choice and prefered for less oxidized surfaces and less experienced users.
Hand "Rubbing" as in what..... I am going to borrow a rotary polisher.

Also, with the AquaBuff, do I finish up with a liquid wax?
Old 08-17-2010, 08:01 AM
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I started buffing my Seacat this past weekend, It was very caulky like a chaulk board! no kidding. I quickly wet sanded it 1st. with a sanding block with 2000 grit which proberly isn't reqiured but makes for a very smooth slick surface and takes all the chaulk off , Next step...I used 3M™ Marine Rubbing Compound, 09004 with a 100% wool pad @ 1700 rpm. Work a small area @ a time 2'x2' with medium pressure @ first gradually lighten up as the compound breaks down with light pressure buffing until compound is done. Rake/clean your pad then proceed on down the boat. Once I had the whole side buffed I cleaned the wool pad one more time and ran the clean pad only (no compound) down the newly buffed side removing the broken down residue which really makes it shine.I inspected the surface reflection and buffed any areas that needed more compounding. This is where I'm at right now and it looks really.. really.. good. I also have 3M™ Marine Finesse-It™ II Glaze, 09048 which is my next step but it honestly looks so good it doesn't need it at all. Then I'll wax it.

For water line stains I use Starbrite Hull Cleaner it's available at all marine/sporting stores in my area. Spray it on and the worst stains will disappear in less than 20 seconds with No scrubbing just rinse real well after it sit's for a minuite or so. Oh yea.. wet your trailer and the area below where your spraying the hull cleaner anywhere the mist may land on.
Old 08-17-2010, 08:12 AM
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X2 on gasman's approach. I have done the same except I did use the Finesse-It II and then finished with Colinite wax but you could use 3M wax.
Next time I will try the Aquabuff but usually there is no shortcut to this kind of stuff, it takes some elbow grease.
Just a suggestion but when using the wool pad, you should wear a dust mask. Between the wool fibers and the dust from the compound, there is a lot of stuff in the air around your face.
Old 08-17-2010, 08:16 AM
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Lot of good suggestions and not to mention hard work. The 3M Compound/Wax for heavily oxidized surfaces works very well. Put it on with a 6 inch soft buffer (I use a Ryobi), remove wax with an 8 inch soft buffer (again Ryobi) and lastly run over it with a polishing bonnet. Did mm 1989 Dolphin last year, boat came out like brand new. Not much more work than waxing a car! I used the compound on the entire boat inside and out, it still looks great.

Lastly, I do not think this product and process will hurt the surface, good for an amateur.
Old 08-17-2010, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by gasman5.0 View Post
I started buffing my Seacat this past weekend, It was very caulky like a chaulk board! no kidding. I quickly wet sanded it 1st. with a sanding block with 2000 grit which proberly isn't reqiured but makes for a very smooth slick surface and takes all the chaulk off , Next step...I used 3M™ Marine Rubbing Compound, 09004 with a 100% wool pad @ 1700 rpm. Work a small area @ a time 2'x2' with medium pressure @ first gradually lighten up as the compound breaks down with light pressure buffing until compound is done. Rake/clean your pad then proceed on down the boat. Once I had the whole side buffed I cleaned the wool pad one more time and ran the clean pad only (no compound) down the newly buffed side removing the broken down residue which really makes it shine.I inspected the surface reflection and buffed any areas that needed more compounding. This is where I'm at right now and it looks really.. really.. good. I also have 3M™ Marine Finesse-It™ II Glaze, 09048 which is my next step but it honestly looks so good it doesn't need it at all. Then I'll wax it.

For water line stains I use Starbrite Hull Cleaner it's available at all marine/sporting stores in my area. Spray it on and the worst stains will disappear in less than 20 seconds with No scrubbing just rinse real well after it sit's for a minuite or so. Oh yea.. wet your trailer and the area below where your spraying the hull cleaner anywhere the mist may land on.
Wow, thank you for posting exactly what I was looking for... Whether this or the Aquabuff is the way, thank you for taking your time to go into detail on this..
Going to buy some product now.. How many pads and what types will I need for the 3 stages if I decide to go this route?
Old 08-17-2010, 10:54 AM
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With the Aquabuff, you can hand wax afterwards, but I recomend the new PTEF polishes like Rejex, or the ones Starbrite and Maguire makes.

http://www.aqua-buff.com/site/478459/product/AB2000
Old 08-17-2010, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RJaxtheimer View Post
Wow, thank you for posting exactly what I was looking for... Whether this or the Aquabuff is the way, thank you for taking your time to go into detail on this..
Going to buy some product now.. How many pads and what types will I need for the 3 stages if I decide to go this route?
I used a Wen polisher 1700 rpm with hook-n-loop 8" 3M twisted wool pad for the compound be sure to order a rake to clean the wool pads, as the compound will cake up pretty quickly preventing the wool from doing its job. I have used a foam for cutting before and they work really good but keeping a wool clean is a lot easier to me, 5-10 seconds with the rake and it's clean. I have a Lake Country white foam pad (polishing /light cut) for the next step 3M Glaze and Lake Country Wool knitted polishing pad for the final step wax. I'm about 1/3 of the way compounding, I started 7-12 Monday so it will be a week until I get a chance to really spend some time on it. I'm going to do the inside as well so I have a lot to go,but one look at what has only been compounded and I'm ready to buff.
Old 07-31-2016, 04:07 PM
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How much 3m marine compound 09004 is usually required to do the first step of this process properly? I have a newly purchased 2000 Dusky 25'6 CC open fisherman that has moderate oxidation and is in serious need of buffing. Im going to order most of my supplies online and im not sure how much compound to use? Will 32 oz of the Finnese it II be enough to polish it out afterwards? Thanks for all the great help
Old 08-01-2016, 12:58 AM
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If you weren't needing a 3M recommendation I would say use starbrite cleaner wax. It made a believer out of me on my chalky 12yo hull.
Old 08-01-2016, 06:04 AM
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Any before and after pics from anyone?
Old 08-01-2016, 06:22 AM
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I have used the same steps as Gasman on previous boats with excellent results. I will add that the quality of the pads you use are as important as the chemicals. Using genuine wool pads for the compounding phase is important. Don't cheap out here. Also, I went an additional round after the Finesse It and used 3M Perfect It which really turned the gel into a mirror finish. Some will argue that this step isn't necessary but on black or darker gel finishes you will see a difference after using the Perfect It polish. I use 3M waffle pads with the Finesse It and Perfect It stages, then final wax with Collinite.

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