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Scarab Sport 302 Problems?

Old 07-02-2009, 04:22 PM
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Default Scarab Sport 302 Problems?

Hey Guys,

I've been looking for a Scarab Sport 302 for some time now.

I have seen a few with slightly soft spots in the floor.

Is this a major job to fix when the time comes, or is it something which wouldn't be a problem for many years to come (considering it's a gelcoat floor)? I don't even know if it's something which has to be repaired.

These boats are all later models (1995+) with no antifoul. The soft spots surprised me.

Is there any common problems with these boats to look for?

Regards

Darren

Last edited by boatboy50; 12-09-2009 at 04:33 PM. Reason: edit
Old 07-02-2009, 04:30 PM
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In most cases you will find soft spots near where a previous owner drilled a hole to mount something. There are times where the manufacture is the culprit. In my case the way the consoles were mounted in the 1993-1995 models were a problem and my boat developed a soft spot right near where the console was bolted down.

Is the soft in the center of the floor or near a gunnel or the console?
Old 07-02-2009, 04:48 PM
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edit

Last edited by boatboy50; 12-09-2009 at 04:32 PM. Reason: edit
Old 07-02-2009, 08:15 PM
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If the soft spot is in the same spot on both sides then I would have to say it had something to do with the wat that boat was put together. Maybe from the mounting screws for the console.
Old 07-09-2009, 05:41 PM
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Hey guys.....I have a 1980 Scarab Sport. There are also soft spots beside my console...Stbd side is a little more noticable. I was also guessing it was from holes drilled to secure console did not get properly sealed. Previous owner had removed the console..installed indoor/outdoor carpet ..then put console back on. I want to remove the carpet but am afraid of "opening a can-o-worms" in the middle of the season. Any suggestions on how to make a solid repair? I am thinking the upper shell would have to come off to do it right....
Old 07-09-2009, 05:45 PM
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the whole deck will be wet, the soft spots you are feeling is the worst of it, soon it will all be soft.

If you re-do the deck there are good precautions you can take to make sure you wont have to do it again, and it does not involve expensive cores or resins, just common sense.

We had a 99 in for what the owner believed to be a soft spot behind the console- the WHOLE deck was rotted and no good.
Old 07-09-2009, 05:45 PM
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my wording is scarry sounding- maybe not SOON the whole deck, but what I am getting at is it will obviously only get worse and the worse it gets the more expensive it will be.
Old 07-09-2009, 06:40 PM
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83 scarab here....soft spots around console turned out to be a major repair...all new bulkheads, stringers and floor...plus throw in a transom....$7500 repair. These boats apparently were designed so that everything drained down into the hull and then drained to the bilge area to be pumped out. But it does not take long for the drain pathways to clog up and then the water sits...seeps up through the stringers and bulkheads and creates the soft spots in the floor. Even the fish box just dumped water straight down and then had to find its way to the back. As I am having this boat repaired I am adding pipes so that no water sits in the hull...it has to go back to the bilge area. Anyway, my point being, what i thought was a very small soft spot in the floor on the right side of the center console turned out to be so much more.... I also bought thinking it would be a minor repair. But hey, she is tight and right now...solid as an ox and foam filled.
Old 07-09-2009, 07:17 PM
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Same problem I am having!!........water in fish box will not drain...probably has not for a long time even before I purchased it....I tried running a long PVC rod all the way down and under the fuel tank...even hooked up garden hose and tried jetting but the clog will not clear...the bulkhead at back of fishbox is all rotten wood and will have to be replaced and I am sure just as bad aft...What I am really concerned at this point is my hull weakened as well?? I can replace the bulkheads but is the hull completely sealed when manufactured and protected from sitting water?? Any suggestions?
Old 07-09-2009, 07:28 PM
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This is what the same small spots felt like in this 2000 model boat which was very well kept and all oem. As several of the previous guys posted, the deck is most likely is rotted and needs a professional repair. Here's some pics of how we did one.





We set up a hull dolley with framing and sheeted with 3/4" plywood to fit the inside deck footprint. This way the weight of the deck kept the sole perfectly flat as if were in the mold.




As you can see, the rot hasn't quite spread 100% but man does that balsa wick some water!










Old 07-09-2009, 07:44 PM
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Magnum Offshore.......if your fishbox is like mine was then it only drains via a pump overboard. The way it was designed it will never drain completely. The thru hull is higher than the lowest part of the fishbox so whatever was left in the line drains back in.

And if the pump doesn't work or you don't know about it then the box will be as full as the thru hull is high. Jetting it won't work because you are going up hill. I just removed the pump and drilled a hole in the lowest point so it drains in the bilge.

BoatHaus.....Splitting the hull and cap is definatly the best way to fix the deck. This way you don't loose the factory look by cutting the floor. I had just a couple of soft spots that I repaired without cutting the deck. When I put in the new console I cut open the deck under where the new console sits and dug out the old wood then filled the void with resin. Its pretty solid now and the deck looks untouched but I'm sure in the future more spots will pop up. Hell the boat is a 1994.

If I had the facility to do a split job like you did thats what I would have done. Nice job!
Old 07-09-2009, 07:47 PM
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Thanks Chris
Old 07-09-2009, 07:53 PM
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thats nice!!!! may I ask around how much $$$ and time did it took???
Old 07-09-2009, 08:00 PM
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There was some electrical and a few other issues we took care of but his invoice was 11k.
Old 07-09-2009, 08:03 PM
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$11K.....sounds reasonable due to the amount of labor. The key is to have or know someone that has a facility capable of that job and doing it yourself. There can't be much in materials, but a hell of a lot of labor.
Old 07-09-2009, 08:05 PM
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Boathaus.........Great info!!! Great pics!!.....Thank you very much...I have been wondering how the boat is designed between deck and hull......Also how much does an overhaul like this cost??
Old 07-09-2009, 08:08 PM
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Chris.... I was trying to get my fishbos to drain out the thru hull at the bottom of the transom....is the drainage system not set up that way?...Trying to get a mental picture...
Old 07-09-2009, 08:48 PM
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Boathaus, what is the name of your shop? I just had Gary Armington do some work for me and your shop kind of looks like the place next to him???
Old 07-09-2009, 08:50 PM
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Chris ...where was the pump you are reffering to located and how did you get to it?......I have two pumps (that I know of) but both are in the bilge aft of the fuel tank......I thought that any water was supposed to all the way back to the plug so that the entire boat could be drained once on the trailer....please inform me if I am wrong....Tks
Old 07-09-2009, 08:57 PM
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Magnum...if you have a 1980 then your boat is not designed quilt like the pics above, its more like my 1994. In the pics above it appears that the stringer and bulkheads are a one piece preformed grid system, which is common in newer boats. Yours likely has 4 wood cored stringers that run the length of the boat along with wood cored bulkheads. But the way the deck and cap are built should be similar.

On the fishbox. If it is like mine was it won't drain into the bilge then out the transom plug. It drains via a pump in the front of the box. The pump is then plumbed to a thru hull fitting on the hullside near the front of the boat. The thru hull should be on the hull side about at the point where the cabin door is. The pump is accessible from inside the cabin, you need to remove the panel right where you stem into the cabin.

If you look at the picture I attached that thru hull used to be the fish box discharge. Now its the discharge for the A/C. Yours may be on either side. If you don't have a thru hull on the hull side like this then yours probably drains right to the bilge and you do indeed have a major blockage. I would look for the pump before going further.
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