Teak deck care

Old 05-11-2009, 05:08 PM
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Default Teak deck care

How do you guys take care of a teak deck and keep it looking nice, it is the only "natural" teak on my boat , I have Amazon 55 oiled covering boards, and clear coated / varnished, helm pod, wheelhouse coaming and fighting chair , but have no experience with the wood in its raw state, so whats the best way to keep it nice with no "graying"? Thanks in advance
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:38 PM
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Default teak care

At any marine store, (West marine) you can buy a 2 part teak treatment. Use as directed on the bottles. Wear gloves and watch your eyes as one part is an acid. part 2 is a neutralizer. Apply part 1, brush it in, hose off. It will remove the grey color. Then apply part 2.
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Old 05-11-2009, 05:46 PM
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try to avoid the 2 parts, it makes it look great but causes alot of damage. If the teak is smooth, use a 3m pad with some dishwasher detergent, it will clean it up nice then you can use some oxcillic acid to brighten it. Always use the 3m across the grain and never use a bristle brush.
If the grain is rough and really open, sand it down until smooth than stay on top of it.
If you must 2 part get some teak plus and minus, you can dilute it and dont have to rinse in between parts. This stuff can be hard to find outside of Ft. Lauderdale.
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:06 PM
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I agree, having done a fair amount of teak restoration the two parts are not the way to go to prep teak. Part A is acid, part B is a nuetralizer. The acid part raises the grain of the wood and permanently damages the teak. Using this method is a common way to prep a boat for sale but not good for the long haul.

If you put absolutely nothing on teak, the gray look is what you will get. I personally like the look of oiled teak but it can be tough to keep looking good in the south. The good thing is you can apply a quick coat pretty fast but in the hot FL sun it won't look that nice for long and you will spend many hours oiling it in a year. In hot climates I think I would let the deck go gray and keep trim and gunnels oiled for looks.
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:13 PM
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I don't care for the two part cleaners either. I've never tried dishwasher detergent, but I think I may give it a try! I usually use plain old comet cleanser with bleach. The trick is to use a lot of water to rinse off any residue. Good luck!
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:39 PM
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I avoid the 2-step acid cleaners as well; if you go that route, it will eat aluminium. Starbrite and Interlux make one step cleaners, though you still need gloves and they will raise the grain over time. Tide with clorox works.
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Old 05-12-2009, 04:25 AM
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what about using a pressure washer?
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Old 05-12-2009, 05:47 AM
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A pressure washer will eat up the teak faster than you can imagine. And you should work with the grain, not against it. Sanding is destructive to teak, so go easy if you use that method.

At least consider products that are specifically made for teak care. Yes, bleach is the cure-all for everything, or so it would seem, and comet leaves a minty fragrance, but a teak cleaner to remove the old oil and clean the wood, a teak brightener to enhance the grain and then a high-grade teak oil to make it look good will do the trick, too.
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:02 AM
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After about 30 years of boating I have discovered that If it gets the right mixture of sun and rain, just leave it and when it turns very light gray it will blend in great with the rest of the boat. Black goes well too - but you gotta keep it out of the sun.
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Old 05-12-2009, 08:05 AM
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I have used light solution of oxyllac acid/water and a soft brush. like 1/4 cup of oxylac acid to 2 gal of water. Apply it, let it sit for 5 minutes, scrub lightly with brush, rinse well with hose.
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Old 05-12-2009, 08:49 AM
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wet the deck well, spread cascade the powder deterg, KEEP damp on the deck. it will soften wood use a "doodle bug" pad (brown one) and scrub against grain. with the grain will dig it out. deck will be VERY slippery. hose off well. Now get white vinigar (windixie brand cheap) and make a 50 to 50 water mix and "wash" all the teak u did. this Neutralizes the acid. I have worked on many yachts. the two part will give a nice golden look but will destroy and chrome it touches. be careful. good luck. I found over cast days or when it is a light rain was the best to do teak
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Old 05-12-2009, 09:48 AM
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I have found that simple green works well on teak without damaging. spray simple green on let soak for 5 minutes. Scrub with a soft bristle nylon brush - use a 1500 psi pressure washer - don't get to close to the grain. Bingo = you have nice looking teak
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:30 AM
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Once you have it clean, oil it with a good quality teak oil that contains tung oil. UV inhibiters help too. Wipe up any excess oil that gets on the gel coat as it will permanently stain otherwise. Do this a couple times per year and it will stay nice and teaky.
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:25 PM
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the black lines are getting sticky and staining my foot on the bathing platform of my boat, how can I cure this
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:33 PM
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the caulk is getting tacky, not good. has to be removed and re-caulked. dont sand it!! you will smear it.
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:37 PM
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I agree with the simple approach--salt water and Joy or Dawn, soft brush across the grain. If you have to a dilute oxylic acid--but any acid will break down the soft wood, and raise the grain. Many of the harsher chemicals will harm the polysulfide caulking and eventually allow water to get in-to delamination. Then you end up sanding, plugs come out and it gets very ugly.

As for oils etc--again, I feel that natural is the best way to go in the long run. Oils also can damage the polysulfide, can be hot, and hard to keep a consistant covering--plus don't have as good a non skid property as raw teak. There have been times I used Simco on some swim step ladders tread--neutral. But I don't like the pigment which many finishes add.
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