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1977 Sea Ox Rebuild

Old 03-03-2021, 11:55 AM
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Default 1977 Sea Ox Rebuild

Picked up a 19’ Sea Ox not to long ago and beginning the process of rebuilding.

Boat will need new stringers, transom, floor, trailer and power. I plan on picking at it pretty regularly and will update as often as I can.





As you can see, I have my work cut out for me.

If you see some areas I can improve or would suggest a method along the way please do not hesitate to reach out.
Old 03-03-2021, 12:31 PM
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Looking forward to watching this. And I have that flag as a T-shirt lol. 🤘🏼
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Old 03-03-2021, 12:43 PM
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Where did you find that hull? Was it in Va?
Old 03-03-2021, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by other line View Post
Where did you find that hull? Was it in Va?
Yes, VA in Matthews. I am not far from there on the Chickahominy
Old 03-03-2021, 06:02 PM
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I am currently working on the same boat. I have a new floor in it and am about to do the transom. I was thinking about doing a full transom and putting a bracket on it and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions.
Old 03-04-2021, 08:31 AM
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Think you would like the full transom. Gets the motor out of the boat and now you have full freeboard all around. Picked up a '78 Kencraft that had that mod done.

Old 03-04-2021, 08:55 AM
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I do lean towards the full transom and the bracket. I need to make my mind up if I want to run a big tiller or a console or guinea stick.
Old 03-04-2021, 10:01 AM
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seems like I've probably drank beer in that garage before
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Old 03-04-2021, 11:40 AM
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I know where there is one of these hulls in western MA if anyone is looking for one....
Old 03-06-2021, 10:20 AM
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Cap popped off, inside glass rough cut out, and starting to work on rot removal and getting it cleaned up



As you can see, and I suspected, water weeped from the floor up to the gunnels and rotted 95% of the transom. One semi dry spot high port, but other than that most material crumbled off with the help of a chisel. So far, shallow cuts with the sawsall and the skillsaw set on shallow have been my friend. Mostly to remove the inside glass and the glass layered in the transom. Oscillating tool for tough edges helped as well.
Old 03-06-2021, 03:32 PM
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First boo boo in the process, ran a chisel (hammer not air) through the back of the glass trying to take some very laminated wood off. IMO, no big deal. I plan on putting some 1708 on the inside either way, and can patch the backside. Lessons learned.
Old 03-10-2021, 03:41 PM
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Had some time this afternoon to work on it. About 99% of the old transom is gone. Careful chiseling and an oscillating tool with the plunger blade was what I needed to clean up the corners.



Still need to clean up the corners where the gunnel meets the transom and some where the transom meets the hull, but hope to be ready to grind this weekend. Next update will be after I complete or nearly complete grinding.
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Old 03-13-2021, 11:46 AM
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Spent the morning cleaning up some of the remaining wood around the corners and then took to the grinder.

Got all of the wood ground out and down to smooth glass on the majority of the transom. Still need to clean up the gunnels and the floor where I will tab the transom in. I will pick at that this week and be ready for the new transom by next weekend.









I decided not to go with the bracket. Being a duck hunter who frequently hunts open water, I questioned the practicality of it, especially when a decoy line gets caught in the prop in a big sea or ride.

Instead, I plan on raising the transom 4-5 inches and going with a hydraulic jack plate.

Thoughts on how to get the back glass to be level when I raise it? Just layer glass until it is level and overlay it?
Old 03-13-2021, 01:25 PM
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Are these pictures before you did the grinding? The reason I ask is there seems to be Delamination within the inside skin. Be sure to grind that out so you don’t have issues later. Also, be sure to grind out at least 6” away from the transom so you can glass to the hull. I may getting a head of myself. Good luck.
Old 03-13-2021, 02:12 PM
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I have not ground out the floor, just the transom. I have not ground out the area I am going to tab yet either, that will be this week. I believe what you are seeing is the roving that was glassed over the stringers de laminating. I have not messed with that yet, transom first.
Old 04-20-2021, 04:18 PM
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Been a few weeks and been busy. Gathered materials for the last few weeks. Decided to go with the following for the transom:

2 sheets Maine grade (A/B) ply laminated together.
1700 cloth
West Systems resin and slow hardener. Went with the slow for two reasons. One, I am not in a rush. Two, it gets hot in a month or so and I wanted to give myself ample buffer.

I did an hour or so of grinding in the transom and tabbing area today. In addition, I cut the pattern. I used foam insulation board and it worked great. I clamped it to the outer skin of the transom and traced the outer edge. I was not able to reach the crown at the keelsom, so I used a straight edge to carry my line from about halfway from corners in. Then took an oscillating tool and a redneck protractor and trimmed down until it fit comfortably. Foam insulation board was easy to work with and cheap. Recommend for patterns. Cutting ply and will try and work the first layer in this weekend.


Old 04-20-2021, 04:40 PM
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Being you have the stringers out AND have the cap off, I’d take careful measurements to be sure the hull isn’t twisted or sagging
Old 04-20-2021, 04:53 PM
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Definitely a good call. I have my measurements before I popped the cap and plan to check them again before I put transom in just to make sure.

Not too worried about so much twisting with the transom install. The stiffness created by the angles and thickness at the back there seems to me to pretty much ensure that the back one foot of the boat and the transom is not going to twist or sag/bow. The cap will go back on before I start stringers. Feel like the stringers is where I really need to be careful with that, and with the cap back on, hope I shouldn’t run into any issues.
Old 04-20-2021, 04:58 PM
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P


Pics didn’t post earlier
Old 04-20-2021, 06:51 PM
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If you're going to raise your transom add the 4-5 inches to your template. You raise it with the core and then glass it in. On the outside skin feather the edges back to be able to build up to fill it in and for strength and on the inside use full pieces of glass. You may already be way ahead of me but I noticed you'd cut your template to the original height.

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