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1993 Dusky 233 Semi-Resto

Old 01-17-2021, 10:16 AM
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Default 1993 Dusky 233 Semi-Resto

I started out planning on just replacing my transom because the floor was solid as a rock, but I kept having to tighten the bolts holding the Dusky drive on, so I figured the transom was hurting some, and figured I could just replace the transom from the inside and then get rid of the boxes in the back. Well, not that case, I found termites in the transom, guess where they went when they wanted more wood, yup, the stringers. My two month project turned into a ???? month project. I used two sheets of 3/4" Kay-Cel (Like Coosa) from FGCI with Vinyl Ester resin. The sheets are bonded in, so I removed the T-Top, and Center Console and ripped the floor out. Got most of the foam out also. I still have to completely glass in the transom, but have read various layups. I see some tab as follows, 4", 8", 12", 16" and then I see others tab 16, 12, 8, 4. WHICH IS CORRECT?

I was going to wait to glass in the transom until I was ready to bond stringers in so I could try to get things installed without sanding a lot and thought I would get a better bond. THOUGHTS?

I am adding an extra set of stringers outside the mains, should I make the extra stringers out of 3/4", 1", or 1-1/2". The main stringers will be 1-1/2" thick Coosa. THOUGHTS ON THICKNESS OF EXTRA SET AND BULKHEADS?

WISH LIST:
Build new transom bracket out of aluminum with extra floatation.
Remove boxes in the back
Move main fuel tank up front (60 gal). This tank is only 1 year old.
Add extra fuel tank (40 gal)
Add freshwater wash down
See if it is possible to make the front of the console lift up so the wife can walk under (porta-potty)


At this time I have no plans on touching the outside of the boat except the transom, that's why I say semi-resto.
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Old 01-17-2021, 11:18 AM
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Here are some photos. Amazing that Dusky nailed the bulkheads in after they glassed the stringers and then at least never covered the nails.
















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Old 01-17-2021, 11:27 AM
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Those battery boxes are the absolute worse design ever!!!

Quite the project...a hull definitely worth doing!!
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Old 01-17-2021, 06:52 PM
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Looking good, takes time but it'll be worth it
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Old 01-18-2021, 11:39 AM
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So as mentioned above, looking for input, here is a photo of where I will put the outer stringer. The mains are 1-1/2" thick, how thick should I make these, 3/4", 1", or the same as the mains. Trying to order the materials now so I have it when I am ready.

Thanks!


Old 01-19-2021, 12:14 AM
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I would go with at least 1” thick. In my project I’m using 8lb 1” foam sheets for the stringers and wings. I buy from a local supplier in Houston and Glassing with 4 layers of 1.5oz CSM and 4 layers of 1808. A lot of folks use 1708 as it is +/- 45*, 1808 is +/- 90*. I used space age in the transom. Same as coosa for the most part. When it comes to layup, I have always started with the schedule like this. 2”, 4”, 6”, 8”, and so on. The reason or at least my reason is because each section of glass has its own independent role in attaching to the hull or part. When you work it backwards you have one section attached to the hull. Does that make sense? I’ve seen it both ways over the years and I can’t say if one is more right than the other, More of a personal opinion. Since you’re using coosa you won’t need to add as much glass likeI am to the 8lb foam. You can probably get away with using 3 layers of 1708 or 1808. As far as bulkheads it’s up to you and what your storage plans are. I am adding 5 bulkheads to my project to a boat that had one. Just keep in mind where the center point of balance is and don’t move it forward or aft. looking good. Best of luck.

Last edited by Badmako; 01-19-2021 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 01-19-2021, 02:59 AM
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Double up on 3/4 in plywood glued together
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Old 01-19-2021, 06:16 AM
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Yep - this restorations can be a rabbit hole but defiantly worth it in the end.

Check out ClassicSeacraft.com - there is a LOT of information about rebuilding stringers etc from guys that are or have totally gutted and rebuilt Seacrafts.
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Old 01-19-2021, 08:45 PM
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There's a couple of older threads on here on Dusky's and Mako's that should be helpfull
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Old 01-20-2021, 04:54 AM
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Have you gone on the Dusky forum with this??
Old 01-20-2021, 06:35 AM
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Looks like you’re doing all the right stuff. 1” minimum thickness on the stringers for sure, Coosa is the right material to replace the wood. Tabbing should always start with the smallest piece first then overlapping larger and larger. 2” would be the minimum overlap, 3” is where I would want to be. Overlapping this way gives each tab adhesion to the hull and part you are bonding, will be very strong in the end. Make sure you grind well prior to laminating to ensure good adhesion and do not laminate on top of any gel coat or paint.

Thickened resin with cabosil in a peanut butter consistency makes a good fillet for your corners to allow your 1708 to lay well without air voids. I like to go wet on wet with the filler and glass, so pre cut all your tabs and get your resin poured in quart sized cups so you can handle easily and also not run out of resin in the middle of the job. 2% MEK to resin ratio will give you at least 30 minutes pot life or more if it’s cool out, so with good planning, you should have no issues. Get some rib rollers and chip brushes in various sizes as well as some foam rollers for the larger areas to be able to spread the resin out easily.
Old 01-20-2021, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by sundancekid View Post
Looks like you’re doing all the right stuff. 1” minimum thickness on the stringers for sure, Coosa is the right material to replace the wood. Tabbing should always start with the smallest piece first then overlapping larger and larger. 2” would be the minimum overlap, 3” is where I would want to be. Overlapping this way gives each tab adhesion to the hull and part you are bonding, will be very strong in the end. Make sure you grind well prior to laminating to ensure good adhesion and do not laminate on top of any gel coat or paint.

Thickened resin with cabosil in a peanut butter consistency makes a good fillet for your corners to allow your 1708 to lay well without air voids. I like to go wet on wet with the filler and glass, so pre cut all your tabs and get your resin poured in quart sized cups so you can handle easily and also not run out of resin in the middle of the job. 2% MEK to resin ratio will give you at least 30 minutes pot life or more if it’s cool out, so with good planning, you should have no issues. Get some rib rollers and chip brushes in various sizes as well as some foam rollers for the larger areas to be able to spread the resin out easily.
Sounds good, I will just stick with 1.5" for all stringers and bulkheads, laminate 3/4" or use solid 1.5" and Scarf joint them to get the length? How about floor thickness and would you stick with Coosa Bluewater or Coosa Nautical.

Thanks everyone for input!
Old 01-20-2021, 12:55 PM
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The correct thickness material will save a lot of time versus having to build a sandwich piece. Floor I would use 3/4", Coosa is fine, or you could use Divinycel and save money and weight. Only problem with Divinycel is screw retention is non existent, so you will need to put enough lamination on both sides for the screws to pass through and bite both layers of glass an caulk down with 5200. I have not had any issues with this method, but the best option would be to laminate aluminum where you will mount your console and helm seat, then drill and tap for machine screws. Coosa has very poor screw retention as well, so either way you're going to have to use one of the above solutions.
Old 01-20-2021, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by sundancekid View Post
The correct thickness material will save a lot of time versus having to build a sandwich piece. Floor I would use 3/4", Coosa is fine, or you could use Divinycel and save money and weight. Only problem with Divinycel is screw retention is non existent, so you will need to put enough lamination on both sides for the screws to pass through and bite both layers of glass an caulk down with 5200. I have not had any issues with this method, but the best option would be to laminate aluminum where you will mount your console and helm seat, then drill and tap for machine screws. Coosa has very poor screw retention as well, so either way you're going to have to use one of the above solutions.
I would love to buy 1.5" sheets and not worry about using extra resin or time, but my concern is as follows, the main stringers are 16 feet, if I buy 1.5", I would have to butt the 8' length boards up, would that be acceptable with enough glass, could I butt them up, glass them in and then glass a 2 foot or so piece of 3/4" on each side of the butt joint? Really appreciate the assistance.
Old 01-21-2021, 03:35 AM
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The other option you have is to cut the core like a puzzle piece at the joint ends so they fit together and hold each other, then putty the joint and glass over. Given the length of stringers, you’re going to have to do all your putty first, then come back to scuff it up and laminate.
Old 01-25-2021, 01:51 PM
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While supplies are on order, I have been looking at things I would like to do on this restoration. One is to change the location of access from the side to the front of the center console. I want to make it so it lifts up for easier access for the wife to use a porta potty, she loves fishing, but still has some standards. Attached is a photo where I would like to cut the access. The issue is, what would be the best way to add gutters and an edge to the door, like a good hatch has to keep water out.

Thanks

Old 01-25-2021, 02:14 PM
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Making a mold for a gutter and hatch is my suggestion. I dont know of an easy way to go about it, build it in place or make a mold both take some time.
Old 01-29-2021, 07:23 AM
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I can't wait to see how you refit your console, I am in the process of rebuilding a 1979 dusky 233 and have had the same idea, do I cut the front out or make it a little longer and taller...got to accommodate the ladys..I will be watching
Old 01-29-2021, 04:24 PM
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So I got my first of two new additional stringers fit. I want to get these new stringers glassed in place before cutting the old ones out. The strake starts curving in right where I ended it.

Figured between having the hull supported and these in place, there is very little chance my hull will twist at all. What do you guys normally bed your stingers with, and how thick of a bedding do you do?

Thanks
Old 01-29-2021, 05:53 PM
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Looking good!

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