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Can't get spark plug wires back on..

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Can't get spark plug wires back on..

Old 10-21-2020, 08:55 PM
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Default Can't get spark plug wires back on..

And I'm totally ashamed to admit it. But I could use some help...

Yamaha 2006 four stroke F115TXR. This is the first year I have owned a boat. I don't work on engines for a living.

I replaced the NGK spark plugs (from the kit I bought from partsvu) tightened to 18.4 ftlbs. Easy.
I do not have new wires. The existing wires look brand new. They just don't seem to be on all the way regardless of how hard I push or wiggle the rubber housing. I have not felt the click I expected to.
I have also tried a little dielectric grease, even though I did read something from NGK that said they don't recommend it. Still can't get the click. Still feel the metal touching the end of the plug if I wiggle the wire.

Is there a trick that I'm overlooking?

Any help would be great
TIA
Brady
Old 10-21-2020, 09:20 PM
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If you still have your old plugs see if the terminal at the top looks like a screw or if the terminal cap is on it. Rarely I have seen the terminal nut remain in the plug cap. Other than that take a light and look into the plug cap. Make sure the snap thats designed to go over the terminal is in good shape and looks ready to receive the terminal on top of the plug. If all thats good it should snap on with moderate force. Some more than others.
Old 10-21-2020, 09:40 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply DA.
I do have the old plugs and I confirmed the cap did not come off on them. And, they don't look like screws
The inside of the plug cap looks good to me. I wonder if the snap is stretched out a little and this is why I'm not getting a click as it is attached.
Old 10-21-2020, 09:48 PM
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If you smeared too much grease in the boot the trapped air will prevent the the boot from being fully depressed onto the plug. The grease should only be opapplied to the plug nipple and a very light coating to the plug shaft if any at all.
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Old 10-21-2020, 09:54 PM
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Ah, I see. I was having trouble seating the wire before I added the grease. But I will remove any excess and try again.
Also going to gently crimp the snap on so there is a little click.
Tomorrow though...
Old 10-24-2020, 08:29 AM
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I ended up using channel locks to crimp each connection. Didn't take much pressure. Then when I pushed it onto the plug I could feel the click as it set. In case anyone wants to know what I ended up doing. I had them on far enough before.
​​​​Haven't started the motor yet, working on the water pump...
thanks for the replies!
Old 10-24-2020, 08:36 AM
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They will not snap on like you’re expecting them too. Different design. You should have just placed the boot over the plug and tightened it back into place.

Hopefully your crimp job didn’t damage anything.

Edit: Disregard. I was referring to the coil pack type, but I don’t think that’s what you have on your engine.

Last edited by TIMarine; 10-24-2020 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 10-24-2020, 10:22 AM
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Well, I guess this is a learning experience for me. If it runs rough, or worse, I'll replace the wires. Probably replace them next fall anyways. Thanks for letting me know...
Old 10-24-2020, 01:31 PM
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Replace the plug wires,, dielectric grease sparingly on the inside of the boots only...
Not on the connections
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Old 10-24-2020, 02:32 PM
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Sounds wise, Dacman... For my curiosity I think I will still start the motor once I'm done with the waterpump (need a new woodruff key) and see what happens. I did wipe away most of the grease, and did not apply to the connections.
Old 10-24-2020, 03:03 PM
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If they don’t click, they are junk
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Old 11-15-2020, 11:45 AM
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After rebuilding the water pump I was able to run the motor. It ran smoothly (hose water connection in my driveway). I ran it for about 20 minutes, waiting for the fuel in the line to run out.
In case anyone reads this post and was wondering...
We'll see how it well it runs in the spring.

Thanks for everyone's replies!
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Old 11-15-2020, 12:28 PM
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Why were you waiting for the fuel to run out? are you saying you run it out of fuel when finished?
Old 11-15-2020, 12:31 PM
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I disconnected the fuel hose from the tank so it would run until the fuel was out. I was advised to do this as part of winterizing the motor. Was that not appropriate?
Old 11-15-2020, 12:35 PM
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Maybe that wasn't necessary since there's no carburetor.
Old 11-15-2020, 01:49 PM
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Always a little anti seeze on the plug threads...and a dab of lithium grease on the boots to plugs and coils
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Old 11-15-2020, 02:55 PM
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Running out fuel is for carbs. Run some extra sea foam rich fuel into it and call it good.
Old 11-17-2020, 03:08 PM
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I’d personally rather have stabil treated fuel on my fuel components for the winter,, carbed or injection.
I don’t think dry fuel pumps, gaskets and injectors sitting over the winter is doing you any favors.
JMO
Old 11-17-2020, 03:29 PM
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Running the high pressure pump dry can damage it. Winterize the engine according to the manufacturer's manual. That pump can be very pricey. Have you also serviced the VST tank filter.
Here's a VST Filter and tank for a F115 that the owner had failed to maintain.



Old 11-18-2020, 03:16 AM
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I load up the 60 gal fuel tank with about 20 oz. of stabil, run the engine and shut it down. Squirt fogging oil into the plug holes and you are good to go. change all fuel filters in the spring.

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