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awl grip with bondo

Old 10-02-2020, 02:00 PM
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Default awl grip with bondo

So I am going to repaint paint my 1998 Almar. I have it all stripped down (as far as windows, gauges, brackets, anything that unbolts is unbolted.).
I was going to use awl grip. I have spoken at length with awl grip people and the process. They say after sand blasting or sanding to bare metal...

1st wash primer
2nd high build primer (2 coats).
Said theses first two steps need to be started as soon as the aluminum is cleaned (within 20-30min). After 2nd high build goes on it can set till next day/week. But don't let aluminum set until these two steps are complete. Obviously there is some set up time between the two steps (I forget what it is 20 min - 1hr or something.)
3rd Awlfair filler for small holes or any spots that need to be filled (from corrosion where stainless screws were).
4th High build again (2 coats).
5th 545 Primer
6th Awlgrip fishing coat (3 coats).

My question is for those that have used awl grip as paint. Did you do all these steps? I was thinking about bondo instead of awl fair to cut the cost a little. I don't mind the work if it will last longer in the long run. Half the battle is stripping down to bare metal. So once that's done really not that big of deal to add extra coats. This just seems a little excessive. Obviously awl grip is in the business of selling their product so the more steps the more product I use? Once again just wanted to hear from those that have used it and skipped any steps with no issues. Or should I follow them exactly as awl grip has told me too?

I bought a 40-50lb sandblaster from harbor freight. Has moisture separator and everything. Practiced on the radar arch after I unbolted it. Seems like its going to work nicely.

Just to clarify the paint is for the inside of the boat (not interior of a cabin) not the outside hull. It's set up like a center console. So painted area will be roof, under roof, sides of center console, dash (exposed to the elements if soft sides are not dropped), bench seats in front of the console.

Last edited by Fishing is; 10-02-2020 at 02:07 PM.
Old 10-02-2020, 02:45 PM
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use the awlfair just for the fact you have a much longer working time with it or just prime and paint if you are just wanting to get the job done and not end up with a showpiece

ive sprayed inside cabins before, its dreadful lol
very hard to evacuate the fumes, mask EVERYTHING and no matter what the lighting you will be basically be spraying blind if you are going with any light colors- its like putting your brights on driving in the fog
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Old 10-02-2020, 02:51 PM
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I've used Interlux 2 part epoxy with good success. I imagine it's cheaper than Awlfair.
Old 10-02-2020, 03:14 PM
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Here is some of what will be painted. The paint that was stripped just flew off with the pressure washer!!
Old 10-02-2020, 03:16 PM
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yes just about any epoxy fairing will work, some are finer than others meaning less porosity , smoother.
the smoother and finer usually equals more money

Old 10-02-2020, 03:32 PM
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My main purpose for going with the awl grip was it was described as being more durable. So while its a fishing boat and do not care so much about the glamor side of awl grip I was hoping it would be a little more durable with a net scratching it or accidental two pound balls being swung into side of center console.
Old 10-02-2020, 03:32 PM
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I have a similar project, paint just blew away with air pressure and a garden hose. I am taken the old paint off and down to good clean aluminum. Then two coats of zinc chromate before I apply two coats of primer. Any areas that need filling in will be Duraglass. I never apply Bondo to any metal surface.
Old 10-02-2020, 03:42 PM
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Polyester fillers such as Bondo usually contain talc and will absorb moisture. They are satisfactory for automotive use but not so much for marine use. For these and other reasons, epoxy fillers are the way to go, and it doesn't have to be Awlfair.
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Old 10-02-2020, 03:59 PM
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thanks
Old 10-02-2020, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by fireboat View Post
Polyester fillers such as Bondo usually contain talc and will absorb moisture. They are satisfactory for automotive use but not so much for marine use. For these and other reasons, epoxy fillers are the way to go, and it doesn't have to be Awlfair.
correct, Bondo is for automotive (and a knock around low cost workboat maybe).
If you want a good product at a reasonable cost I would suggest checking out Jamestown Distributor’s “Total Fair”.
Old 10-03-2020, 03:16 AM
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Prep the aluminum good whether you blast or sand with a DA sander,etc.
be careful with the blaster! It WILL warp the aluminum!
when its all up to par and clean use a good quality epoxy primer and then apply totalfair.
ive used the totalfair and its very easy to sand and very few if any pinholes.
Then shoot 2 more coats of epoxy primer and sand to a final of 500 grit.
Then shoot a good polyester based which is more durable than a acrylic based urethane single stage paint.
or just bedline the crap out of it!
By the way I've had good luck with Nason Ful Poxy which is an automotive brand but is easy to spray and sand. And it has some filling properties.
mixes 1:1 so you have 2 gallons sprayable when done.
Good thing about epoxy primers is it's promoting adhesion and you also have a window of applying filler on top of the primer(which i prefer) with not sanding the primer.
Check the window time which depending on temps. It can be as much as high as 72 hours depending on brand of epoxy primer..
Also induction time is important on epoxy primer.
Mix and let it sit for 30 mins before you spray.

Last edited by RC65; 10-03-2020 at 03:45 AM.
Old 10-03-2020, 04:14 AM
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"Polyester fillers such as Bondo usually contain talc and will absorb moisture." It also expands and contracts at a different rate then any metals.

I worked at a Corvette shop as a kid. It more closely expanded/contracted similarly to fiberglass.....metal/aluminum.

FWIW, prep is you friend. Make sure you have all those nooks and crannies absolutely clean.

My .02

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