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32 donzi Hole shot problems

Old 09-12-2020, 02:28 PM
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we had a 32 donzi at my marina for a while with 300's, it was running rev4's, i dont remember it having an issue getting on plane
Old 09-12-2020, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by aswaff400 View Post
we had a 32 donzi at my marina for a while with 300's, it was running rev4's, i dont remember it having an issue getting on plane
Ive heard those are great props and may be what I end up doing. Maybe those are built for better handling of the turbulent water the stepped hull creates.
Old 09-13-2020, 07:08 AM
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With the large 5.44” lower unit of the Verados, the hole shot issue is pretty much gone. Repowered one with 300s and with the motors all the way down and Bravo FS 23s, it was a beast.

The Opti gear case does not work that way. The only way we could get rid of the hole shot ventilation was 30” shafts. It made it a different boat, could plane at 15 mph, excellent throttle response and bite on a sea, and actually faster up top as more lower unit in the water carried the bow better and gave it more lift. That one had 21p Rev 4s.
Old 09-13-2020, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by sundancekid View Post
With the large 5.44” lower unit of the Verados, the hole shot issue is pretty much gone. Repowered one with 300s and with the motors all the way down and Bravo FS 23s, it was a beast.

The Opti gear case does not work that way. The only way we could get rid of the hole shot ventilation was 30” shafts. It made it a different boat, could plane at 15 mph, excellent throttle response and bite on a sea, and actually faster up top as more lower unit in the water carried the bow better and gave it more lift. That one had 21p Rev 4s.
That's good information, thank you. Any idea on cost of converting to 30" shafts? Ken from prop gods suggested grinding down the large brass strainers on the thru-hulls as they are right in line with the motors. It's also interesting that just a larger lower unit on the verados helped eliminate this as well. Wonder why that makes a difference?
Old 09-13-2020, 04:48 PM
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The hydrodynamics of the larger case allows it to be mounted higher. You could get a Bay Manufacturing extension kit for around $500 each.
Old 09-13-2020, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sundancekid View Post
The hydrodynamics of the larger case allows it to be mounted higher. You could get a Bay Manufacturing extension kit for around $500 each.
Thats not too bad. Is this something that needs to be professionally installed? Or is it pretty simple for someone who's mechanically inclined?
Old 09-13-2020, 07:09 PM
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Bay kits are easy, comes with a spacer, longer studs, and extensions for drive shaft, shift shaft, and water tube.
Old 09-13-2020, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Drifterfishing View Post
Removing the mounting bolt is easier said than done on this boat. There's no access through the transom or splash well to get to the nut. Have to go head first through the bilge hatch and try to crawl back to it without getting stuck lol. I like your idea about using the jack to lower the motors, I've used that method to get a boat off the trailer and onto blocks before. Never even thought about using it to reposition motors. I'll try to get a pic when I get back around the boat tomorrow afternoon.
You’re saying the nut is on the inside? Can’t be. Send a picture
Old 09-13-2020, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Drifterfishing View Post
Removing the mounting bolt is easier said than done on this boat. There's no access through the transom or splash well to get to the nut. Have to go head first through the bilge hatch and try to crawl back to it without getting stuck lol. I like your idea about using the jack to lower the motors, I've used that method to get a boat off the trailer and onto blocks before. Never even thought about using it to reposition motors. I'll try to get a pic when I get back around the boat tomorrow afternoon.
i have a smaller version of your hull and I actually ended up raising boats motors this way and it was surprisingly easy (vs using a lift and all kinds of other options). Change one variable at a time. You can swap a prop pretty fast, 10min or less. Go to a bigger diameter prop and give it a run then look at your max rpm. Make sure can hit your ma
Old 09-13-2020, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyingTexan View Post
You’re saying the nut is on the inside? Can’t be. Send a picture
No the upper bolt is easy. However my mounting bracket doesn't have the slider for the lower mounting bolt so I'd have to go through the bilge to reach the nut and fully remove the motor and use a hoist to drop it one hole and then re-install the bolts. Definitely not as easy as it would be if they had the slider on the lower bolt.
Old 09-13-2020, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyingTexan View Post
i have a smaller version of your hull and I actually ended up raising boats motors this way and it was surprisingly easy (vs using a lift and all kinds of other options). Change one variable at a time. You can swap a prop pretty fast, 10min or less. Go to a bigger diameter prop and give it a run then look at your max rpm. Make sure can hit your ma
Wish it was that easy for mine. I don't have the slider on the lower mounting bolt. I'd have to completely remove the motor and use a lift to reposition.
Old 09-13-2020, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sundancekid View Post
Bay kits are easy, comes with a spacer, longer studs, and extensions for drive shaft, shift shaft, and water tube.
I just sent a message to Bay for pricing on the kits. They do seem pretty easy to do. So if I decide to go that route, I would then need to raise the motors to highest mounting holes?
Old 09-14-2020, 04:48 AM
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Yes you will need to raise the motors, 3 holes up equals 2.25” minus the 5” extension, your engines will be 2.75” deeper in the water.
Old 09-14-2020, 06:34 AM
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Team Donzi on the side of the boat?
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Old 09-14-2020, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by shore View Post
Team Donzi on the side of the boat?
Yes it is.
Old 09-14-2020, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by sundancekid View Post
Yes you will need to raise the motors, 3 holes up equals 2.25” minus the 5” extension, your engines will be 2.75” deeper in the water.
Just heard back from Bay. Apparently their prices have gone up. They just quoted me $900 per kit.
Old 09-15-2020, 06:42 AM
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Please let us know when you resolve this issue. I am considering moving up to this model. thanks
Old 09-15-2020, 07:05 AM
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1) once on plane what’s your WOT RPM?
2) are engine RPMs matched?

3) try changing one variable at a time. If you’re already hitting your max RPM with no spare power left on the table then step down your prop inch and go with a larger diameter prop. Find a local shop that does repowers they usually have a lot of used props lying around. Not to keep but see if you can borrow something just to see if a different prop could potentially solve the issue. If so then go find you a new set.

on boat my boats props were the issue. My pathfinder, no steps, would do the same thing when we put the new 225sho on it. I went to Palacios, Tx and started trying out various props and found one that wasn’t pretty but instantly let me know it was the day to go. Bought a new one and been running it hard ever since.

sticking your engines 2.5” deeper might fix the issue but would take a hit on efficiency and performance. Would feel like it’s bogged down and would probably knock 500rpm off your WOT so if making RPMs as you should at WOT you could very well need to change your props anyway to get those RPMs back. So before moving engines, adding shafts, etc go see if you can step down your inches on your prop and go bigger in diameter.

22p on a 225 and that heavy of a boat seems like a pretty aggressive prop. I’d think you’d find a lot more confidence stepping down to a 19p with bigger surface area. Assuming you’re making RPM at WOT. 22p on that large of a 4 blade seems like it’d really be bogging the engines and dropping them deeper would hit them ever harder.

I fully admit my ETECS are 175s and I know you’re running 225s. I just can’t see how a 4 blade prop would make more sense on an offshore stepped hull. You’re using a smaller diameter prop in a cavitation induced water flow. Do the motors feel like they’re struggling? 15.25” prop at 22p just sounds like a lot. If this was a “team” boat did they prop it for WOT bragging rights? I see they make a 20p Bravo

Last edited by FlyingTexan; 09-15-2020 at 07:20 AM.
Old 09-15-2020, 08:02 AM
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I thought the same thing about the props. I have a 29zf with same props and same power and my WOT is 5500 rpm's
Old 09-15-2020, 06:30 PM
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Trim tabs all the way down on take off helps a huge amount on the 32ZF if you aren't doing it already.

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