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Volvo no start

Old 08-22-2020, 06:46 PM
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Default Volvo no start

2004 5.7 GI-E


when it died on the water it was fresh fuel and additive.
cruising at about 3800 rpm and it stumbled for a quick second and died with no restart.
got towed in. Before sea tow was out of sight I was able(with some throttle play and effort get it started. It would only run well at about 2800. Any higher and it would stumble, any lower it would just drop and seem like it would stall. It ran for about 2 minutes the died with no restart.


So, I’ve been running through the list. I have spark at all the plugs. I have the proper fuel pressure both high and low. It seems to put out good volume. TPS tests good, (I think, anyone know what the high and low readings Should be?.)
it smells like it’s flooding .

i think it died on the water because it must have drawn a small amount of water out of the tank. I say this because initially there was no spark coming out of the plug but there was spark to the plug. Tested the inner porcelain and found it to be conducive. Only possibility is water contamination as the fuel and the fuel additives are not conducive.

in between testing stuff I Got it started and would run only at around 1800 rpm pretty well. If I lowered the rpm it seemed like it was going to stall. If I raised the rpms to over 2000 it stumbled and farted. Then it died again

new plugs
new coil in may
new wires
new map sensor
rebuilt fuel pump over the winter
Old 08-22-2020, 07:39 PM
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Remove the fuel filter canister and pour contents into a plastic bag. Look for water or visible contamination.
Screw on clean filter and run.
If problems persist, hook up fresh fuel source and run.
The electrical plug for the fuel pumps is also corrosion prone.
Old 08-22-2020, 10:55 PM
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Yes , check fuel quality and as suggested if there is any question plumb in a clean portable tank of fresh new gas to the HP pump with gravity feed. . Is it E10 gas?

Triple-check at both ends the plug wires are connected correctly to the dist cap as shown by the cyl. numbers molded into the cap ( not by normal firing order.) If , however this happens to be a counter-rotating RH./ CW engine. you have to ignore both the actual firing order and the molded cap numbers ( except for #'s 1& 6). If the wires are in the wrong place all plugs will fire but some will fire at the wrong tiime and not provide combustion so you would smell gas.

Apparently this engine is MPI, not TBI. And it uses the troublesome crossover type flat "Crab" distributor cap . I suggest you replace that cap & rotor out of caution and use a scan device to check for the critical distributor cam retard angle setting . Cam retard can only be read with a marine scan device. Make sure you have the correct cam retard angle spec for your engine model and year as it changed quite a bit. ( On my 2003 Crusader 5.7 l MPIs it was 45*. A year or 2 later I believe the ignition setup was changed so the cam retard spec became 0*. This is Not a timing adjustment , though it does optimize how close the rotor is to the dist cap post when the ignition pulse takes place. ),
But it must be correct. Has anyone by any chance moved the distributor base in a mistaken attempt to adjust the non-adjustable timing ( 100% controlled by the ECM) ?

You can damage the engine by running with a bad dist cap, wrong firing order, or incorrect cam retard so the arc in the distributor goes to the wrong electrode post. .

If you suspect flooding condition, can you get it started by cranking with the throttle in the WOT position to shut down the injectors until it fires? Be ready to reduce to idle immediately.
What were your fuel pressure readings? What does it prime/pump up to on the rail when the key is turned just to Run position, engine off? When yo then turn the key Off, will the pressure remain steady high or does it drop off noticeably in the next minute or so?

A scan could reveal a faulty sensor

Last edited by TTaxi; 08-22-2020 at 11:00 PM.
Old 08-23-2020, 11:59 AM
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Fuel was checked and is good. Fuel filter replaced.
new brass contact cap mid year last year.
plug wires are on tight
new crank sensor last year as well as cam sensor
fuel pressures are 50 plus and falls off a little then stops.
low side is 10+

Old 08-23-2020, 12:01 PM
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Pulling fuel from fresh can and the pump is hardwired in
Old 08-23-2020, 12:26 PM
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Check the fuel pressure first before anything
Biggest issue whith Volvo Penta

Low side at 10 is good. High side 50 plus and falls off a little then stops. There might be your issue
When running it should be constant at 50 psi



Then if you haven't done a tuneup for awhile now would be the best time to do it.

Last edited by Thalasso; 08-23-2020 at 12:58 PM.
Old 08-23-2020, 12:37 PM
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Might not be your issue but intresting


Old 08-23-2020, 03:41 PM
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Fuel pressure when I did getting to start was fine.
thinking there may be a computer ground or feed issue and not letting the computer communicate with the injectors properly or just bad injectors.
Old 08-24-2020, 05:49 AM
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Distributor. Flat topped distributors are junk

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