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Runs for 45 - 60 minutes, goes rough then stalls. No restart.

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Runs for 45 - 60 minutes, goes rough then stalls. No restart.

Old 08-12-2020, 12:42 PM
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Default Runs for 45 - 60 minutes, goes rough then stalls. No restart.

I SEEK WISDOM

I have a 2004 Yamaha F225TXRC. My son took it out for a run with his kids. Slow speed for 30 minutes (Manatees), cranked it up when on the river and went rough.shortly after a few more minutes. Idle speed partly back it died. Died and would not restart. Boat was towed home and put on the lift.

I changed the filters: In the boat, filter element in the engine, the 'F' filter and the High Pressure pump and filter.in the VST. Replaced the VST seal. Since then I lowered the boat and started the engine for 15 minutes or so several times without any issue. I also started the engine and while on the lift in the water put it in gear and went into forward for 4 minutes and reverse for about 5 minutes (enough friction on the lift kept it in place). I thought I was ready for sea trials!

This morning I went and started it again and sat in the boat while it ran at idle to 2200 RPM (in neutral) for 1.5 to 2 hours plus and ran rough and quit, starter turned the engine over but no start. Had to quit, it is 92 degrees here at noon with thunderstorms building.

Just finished lunch, decided to give it another go. Pulled off the cowling and tried to start. No go. Looked at the fuel bowl, looked OK but gave the primer bulb a few squeezes until firm and the engine started without issue. What do the smart people think? any help or suggestion would be appreciated.
Old 08-12-2020, 01:07 PM
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Is your ball collapsing? If you have a bad primer ball it may be restricting fuel flow
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Old 08-12-2020, 01:12 PM
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or dirty filters or fuel lines collapsing
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Old 08-12-2020, 01:39 PM
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It will start when cold but not hot.? Does it have spark when it doesn't want to start? What made you decide it was fuel related?
sounds electrical not fuel.
I would first find out if you have spark or not when it doesn't want to start
Old 08-12-2020, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Its just me View Post
I SEEK WISDOM

I have a 2004 Yamaha F225TXRC. My son took it out for a run with his kids. Slow speed for 30 minutes (Manatees), cranked it up when on the river and went rough.shortly after a few more minutes. Idle speed partly back it died. Died and would not restart. Boat was towed home and put on the lift.

I changed the filters: In the boat, filter element in the engine, the 'F' filter and the High Pressure pump and filter.in the VST. Replaced the VST seal. Since then I lowered the boat and started the engine for 15 minutes or so several times without any issue. I also started the engine and while on the lift in the water put it in gear and went into forward for 4 minutes and reverse for about 5 minutes (enough friction on the lift kept it in place). I thought I was ready for sea trials!

This morning I went and started it again and sat in the boat while it ran at idle to 2200 RPM (in neutral) for 1.5 to 2 hours plus and ran rough and quit, starter turned the engine over but no start. Had to quit, it is 92 degrees here at noon with thunderstorms building.

Just finished lunch, decided to give it another go. Pulled off the cowling and tried to start. No go. Looked at the fuel bowl, looked OK but gave the prer bulb a few squeezes until firm and the engine started without issue. What do the smart people think? any help or suggestion would be appreciated.
If it is wisdom that you seek, I have it for you. Repower and enjoy the new engine.
Old 08-12-2020, 03:46 PM
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Default Answering some questions

Let me answer some of your questions.
- When it stalled today, it sat for an hour before I went back down after lunch. How cold would it get?
- At that point I removed the cover and looked at the filter. I can say the filter element is new. The primer bulb was not collapsed. When I squeezed the primer bulb it did not seem to push gas and took several cycles before it became firm. The filter in the boat is new. I recall changing the check valve months before this started. It was surface corroding. Are there any specs on resistance to flow.? It has a stamp in it but I will need to remove it first.

Any comments on changing the check valve to a straight flow at the tank pick-up? The alternative is to question the sending unit, it shows 1/2 tank in a 130 gal tank but an empty tank is unlikely.
Re-powering is unlikely until I get final costs of replacing windows that meet Miami Dade Standards.

Thanks in advance to all.
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Old 08-12-2020, 04:16 PM
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next time it happens, remove the gas cap. If the vent tube is restricted, it could be vapor locking on you. If you kept pumping the bulb and it didn't get hard, it my be vapor locked.
Old 08-12-2020, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Its just me View Post
Let me answer some of your questions.
- When it stalled today, it sat for an hour before I went back down after lunch. How cold would it get?
- At that point I removed the cover and looked at the filter. I can say the filter element is new. The primer bulb was not collapsed. When I squeezed the primer bulb it did not seem to push gas and took several cycles before it became firm. The filter in the boat is new. I recall changing the check valve months before this started. It was surface corroding. Are there any specs on resistance to flow.? It has a stamp in it but I will need to remove it first.

Any comments on changing the check valve to a straight flow at the tank pick-up? The alternative is to question the sending unit, it shows 1/2 tank in a 130 gal tank but an empty tank is unlikely.
Re-powering is unlikely until I get final costs of replacing windows that meet Miami Dade Standards.

Thanks in advance to all.
Fuel delivery. Vacuum leak? Bad gas tank pu?
clogged fuel line?
Old 08-12-2020, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Its just me View Post
I SEEK WISDOM

I have a 2004 Yamaha F225TXRC. My son took it out for a run with his kids. Slow speed for 30 minutes (Manatees), cranked it up when on the river and went rough.shortly after a few more minutes. Idle speed partly back it died. Died and would not restart. Boat was towed home and put on the lift.

I changed the filters: In the boat, filter element in the engine, the 'F' filter and the High Pressure pump and filter.in the VST. Replaced the VST seal. Since then I lowered the boat and started the engine for 15 minutes or so several times without any issue. I also started the engine and while on the lift in the water put it in gear and went into forward for 4 minutes and reverse for about 5 minutes (enough friction on the lift kept it in place). I thought I was ready for sea trials!

This morning I went and started it again and sat in the boat while it ran at idle to 2200 RPM (in neutral) for 1.5 to 2 hours plus and ran rough and quit, starter turned the engine over but no start. Had to quit, it is 92 degrees here at noon with thunderstorms building.

Just finished lunch, decided to give it another go. Pulled off the cowling and tried to start. No go. Looked at the fuel bowl, looked OK but gave the primer bulb a few squeezes until firm and the engine started without issue. What do the smart people think? any help or suggestion would be appreciated.
Probably not electrical.
How long did it run before it died this time?
A cheap possibility is a sticky anti-siphon valve. Symptoms on my boat and buddies were the same. Would not get on plane. Both would idle though, so it is still a possibility. I would replace it with a straight fitting "just because" .

Last edited by SeaPro48; 08-12-2020 at 04:31 PM.
Old 08-12-2020, 04:25 PM
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Is it an OEM primer bulb or after market? I've seen after market bulbs cause similar problems. Second question, is the bulb in a position pointing up?
Old 08-28-2020, 12:38 PM
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Default Got it done

Originally Posted by Mud Runner View Post
Is it an OEM primer bulb or after market? I've seen after market bulbs cause similar problems. Second question, is the bulb in a position pointing up?
I took a little time off, but all seems well with the 2004 F225 -TXRC. My son and I dove back into the engine and replaced the primary filter cup and put the water indicator and O ring back that sits at the top of the filter. The cup was cloudy and did not fit well, I simply forgot the small O ring.

Next was going into the Port side of the engine and installed a piece now belonging to the fishes. The only part we lost overboard. It looks like a Top Hat. While in there and the air manifolds off decided to replace the Low Pressure Pump. I had it, why not use it. On the way out tried to Prime with primer bulb and it was nonfunctional. Amazing, used it two or 3 weeks ago and pumped until firm, now there was nothing.

I bought a cheap 12V pump to polish the old gas. Piece of junk. My son is always on the ball, went to the parts removed bucket and came back with the Low Pressure pump we removed. It ran ok, a little noise. We bench tested it and it put out 2gal a minute. We cycled about 400 gal of old gas through the filter in the Hull and pushed the gas back through the fill fitting. After reattaching the hoses and priming with a new primer bulb it started with maybe one rotation. The LP pump ran cool but did start to faulter after 3-4 hours.

Task right now is buying some real gas. I did put 30 gal of new real gas. I’ll fill the tank once I go out for trials.
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Old 08-28-2020, 03:37 PM
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Remove VST drain screw and see what's in there....fuel? water? nothing?.....go from there...
Old 08-28-2020, 03:58 PM
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Default Runs 45 - 60 minutes

The VST was removed and the High Pressure pump replaced. Float and valve inspected. That was done a month to 6 weeks ago.The tank was very clean.
After polishing the old gas last Sunday I changed out the old filter and poured the gas in it into a Pyrex measuring cup. Gas was clean and saw no water after it sitting for a few hours. What was curious is the gas went milky overnight. Next day it was clear and fully evaporated today.
Runs fine at the dock. Son comes out tomorrow and we'll run the heck out of it going up the Indian River. Right now, every day has exceeded 93 degrees and I hate it. I turn 71 this weekend, Covid-19 keeps me in and the heat seals it.

Last edited by Its just me; 08-28-2020 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 08-28-2020, 04:22 PM
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It's Just Me, it doesn't get any better at 73. LOL
Old 09-08-2020, 02:29 PM
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Mud runner talk to me in January.

Well, the boat performed as before. Died after 30 minutes. I sat in the Port Canaveral Barge Canal for a few minutes and recycled the fuel system by turning the ignition switch from off to on (not start) and you can hear the priming clicks. I read that the action primes the fuel system. Restarted and died within a minute.

We managed to return to the dock by continuously squeezing the bulb.

Next target is the pressure regulator. It is a single unit in line to both injector fuel rail. After that is to dive back into the VST and see what I missed. I did not replace the float or needle valve but did thoroughly inspect.

I hate the idea repair by substitution. I bought a diagnostic program, but son and I could not get it to interface. Son contacted the seller and gave a few ideas of where our mistakes are.

What is maddening is the boat sits on the lift in the water and idled for 2 hours that morning. Is there a “safety cut off” that works only when under power and the prop is turning, like overheating?
Old 10-03-2020, 06:47 PM
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Default Diagnostic program to the rescue

I bought a diagnostic program in 2008. I could not get it to run on my Windows 10 program. Son came out and tried without success, a dichotomy between loading data files and loading program. Found my old Windows 7 computer and loaded and ran perfectly.
The readout gave an error #29 Intake Pressure Sensor. Got the replacement in today but it is raining. Once I get it installed and running it I'll close out with final thoughts.
This was great, keeping the old Window 7 laptop was good. Having it all loaded, something like this took 1 hour and saved all the hours chasing rabbits down a hole. The program and cables are not cheap but had I used this first I would have saved enough to buy 2 programs.
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Old 10-03-2020, 07:30 PM
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I would swap out the primer bulb. I had a Yamaha 115 that I couldn’t get running after she was hot. It was random but I found the bulb wouldn’t stay full. That was a year ago and I haven’t had an issue since.
Old 10-28-2020, 08:39 PM
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Default compression test

I have a F225TXRC. Does the engine need to be vertical for a compression test or can I do the test with the engine in the up and locked. I'll be using a remote switch. I prefer to do it this way the boat is on a lift
the

Last edited by Its just me; 10-28-2020 at 08:53 PM.
Old 10-28-2020, 09:05 PM
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It is possible that you still have water in the tank, try hooking up a separate portable tank with new clean fuel and see how it operates. If it runs fine you probable still have a fuel issue in the main tank, if it is still cutting off then the problem should be isolated to the engine.

Originally Posted by Its just me View Post
The VST was removed and the High Pressure pump replaced. Float and valve inspected. That was done a month to 6 weeks ago.The tank was very clean.
After polishing the old gas last Sunday I changed out the old filter and poured the gas in it into a Pyrex measuring cup. Gas was clean and saw no water after it sitting for a few hours. What was curious is the gas went milky overnight. Next day it was clear and fully evaporated today.
Runs fine at the dock. Son comes out tomorrow and we'll run the heck out of it going up the Indian River. Right now, every day has exceeded 93 degrees and I hate it. I turn 71 this weekend, Covid-19 keeps me in and the heat seals it.
Old 10-29-2020, 05:35 AM
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Default Quick checks

Try running the engine until you get the stall. Then spin off the water fuel separator filter. If it is empty then you have an air leak up stream. I had about the same issue recently except the amount of time between cold start and stall got shorter and shorter. I replaced the fuel lines and bulb between the water fuel separator and the engine with no change. I was about to pull all new fuel lines when I took off the water fuel separator, plugged one hole and blew in the other and it would not hold pressure. Soak and water exposed that the housing had a leak near the fittings. $59 at west marine and done. Will run new fuel lines after I pull her out of the water.

Doug

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