eman6501

It doesn't sound like a Power Pack issue, but here's good link for how to test it;

https://goneoutdoors.com/check-pack-...r-8726514.html

TopherMichael

I have to ask, why does it not sound like a PP issue? Just trying to gain knowledge.

eman6501

Because you’re not having any issues with starting.

TopherMichael

True, it's just that one cylinder.

I have spark, fuel and compression, just no response from the motor when I pull the plug. I have cleaned the carbs now 4 times and I think I am getting better and better at it!

SweetD

Interesting, my motor has become harder and harder to start, and the way it's jumping around the rpms at fast idle looks like more than one cylinder is no spark/weak spark.. Thanks.

eman6501

What was the result of the timing, btw? Isn't there a timing base on these things? Sorry, I haven't worked on a 90 OMC in a while, so I'm guessing here. I do know that the air/fuel mixture screws on these things need to be correct. Oh, and that Seloc isn't a lot of help. Try to locate a Factory Service Manual and it will save you a lot of headache.

TopherMichael

I need to buy/rent another timing light. I own one, however it is back at my house in Mass. With that said, will an automotive timing light work the same for an outboard?

Tell me about it, I have read their service manual several times now and it becomes really confusing as they jump motor to motor.

Skunked22

stator supplies the power / charges battery. Also sends power to the power pack. Timer base tells the power pack when to fire. Power pack sends the signal to the coils. If you don’t have a cylinder that’s firing it’s probably due to it not getting a signal. I’ve just gone through this last week. It took me a few days to figure it out. I had misfires happening. One cyl would never fire. I did not use the dva meter. I just used ohms. Coming from the power pack to each coil I was reading about 100 ohms, except for one I was reading open. Ordered the power pack And it ohmed out properly and started fine and ran fine. Started it 10 minutes later and I noticed my spark checker that I had hooked up now wasn’t firing. I was 10 minutes earlier. According to CDI the black and white wires on my timer base should have about 220 ohms. I had 550. It was really stumping me because sometimes it would start and run fine and other times it was hard to start with idling issues. Ordered the timer base and the new one ohmed properly. Installed it and even though it sounded better with the new power pack it really sounds good now! So much smoother. I have yet to put it in the water. I have the idle speed set to 850 with no load. I will tweak it when I put it in the water. My motor is an 89 Evinrude 150xp. I had a bad power pack and a bad timer base. I am not a boat mechanic but I do tinker. If you have a cyl not firing you have an ignition issue. Timer base or power pack are ignition devices. Good luck and now I’ll let the dogs eat me alive!

TopherMichael

Where did you order from?

Could you share how you set the idle speed?

Skunked22

I ordered from marine engine.com it’s CDI brand.
as far As the idle mine is on the starboard side. It’s about 2 inches long and goes through the throttle arm? The bottom end of the arm connects to the throttle cable from shifter and the top of the arm connects to a cam the moves the carb throttle. Mine is a 2 inch flathead that goes through the arm and bottoms out at the block when I’m in neutral. I’ll send a picture later this evening. My timing light tells me the RPMs

TopherMichael

Appears that my motor J90PLEEB timer base is an optical sensor. Which is arriving with the PP.

Skunked22

agreed! Good luck

Dacman

Wait for the tool over timing light use. The optical sensor works off of light thru the timing wheel notches. The top cover over the sensor must be on for it to read properly.
No sunlight on it.

TopherMichael

I replaced the PP, optical sensor today, and all plug wires. I also, re-cleaned that 1 carb and the throttle body (this makes 5x cleaning that carb).

Honestly, I am starting to think the issue is in my head.

With the needle valve turned out to 5 3/4 (each carb), the motor fires right up. No sneezing or rough idle, however a bit sluggish when you tap the throttle but idles right back down.

Again, I pulled the starboard bottom plug and zero difference in RPMs (total head-scratcher). Sprayed premix gas into the throttle body and she took it like a champ, revved right up. I know the carb is supplying fuel as the plug is wet, just not sure why pulling the plug does not change the RPM's.

Questions...

1) How do you raise the idle once the motor is up to temp?

2) Which cylinder would be the 1 cylinder? I have a timing light, just unsure which cylinder is the 1.

Will post a video of the motor soon.

Thanks in advance for all the suggestions and help.

eman6501

Read through this page and see if you find any help;

https://www.maxrules.com/fixomcoisignition.html

Do you have the “OIS” system?

TopherMichael

yes

eman6501

Definitely study that page because he talks about troubleshooting that in depth

TopherMichael

Read the article and have some questions.

1) Which cylinder is cylinder 1?
2) Does anyone have a photo of how best to route the tan wires?
3) Does this system eliminate the need for an idle adjustment as it is all digital?
4) is a “bank” w cylinders or just 1?

I ordered the Easy Timer Ignition Analyzer, should arrive Monday.

Dacman

The idle adjustment is in the timing detent tab. Link and sink comes to mind for the throttle linkages.

eman6501

You can buy and download this Factory Service manual practically immediately and I’m sure all those answers are there. If I knew them myself I’d share but I’m afraid I don’t. Check this link;

https://www.emanualonline.com/Marine...0aAgO_EALw_wcB