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Lovin 4Gs 08-03-2020 05:51 AM

2005 Suzuki 140 Milky Engine Oil
I noticed I had "milky" engine oil when I did my routine annual maintenance yesterday. It's a 2005 Suzuki 140, 4 stroke, 836 hours. I believe I need to replace the head gasket but any advice on where to start to locate where water is coming into the oil? Milky oil has been drained at this point so engine is empty but will refill once I diagnose issue. Engine was running great since my annual maintenance last July until I noticed a slight "shaking" or "chugging" at low speed recently but not at high speeds on plane. Thanks!

kennyboy 08-03-2020 06:02 AM

How many hours since last change? That would tell us more....

marlinmike 08-03-2020 06:03 AM


Dougfish 08-03-2020 06:59 AM

I had milky oil in my 2000 evinrude/Suzuki DF70 once. It freaked me out but I was about to put the boat in the water for the season. So I just changed the oil and went with it. It has been fine since. That was the first year I change the thermostat on it. And I do a lot of idling and trolling in cold weather so maybe my thermostat was stuck open. Not sure but knock on wood my oil looks like honey going in and slightly darker honey coming out now.

unobtanium 08-03-2020 07:01 AM

Look up Suzuki 140 Engine Holder

jeffro22 08-03-2020 07:04 AM

Might want to look into the oil cooler

Lovin 4Gs 08-04-2020 04:33 AM

789 hours when I did my last annual service with new oil cooler, full synthetic oil change with filter replacement, replaced spark plugs, replaced low pressure fuel filter, replaced water/fuel separation filter, replaced lower gear unit oil, replaced impeller, serviced propeller, replaced anodes, greased all fittings.

jmeyer94 08-04-2020 04:39 AM

May have a slight water seepage into one of the cylinders. Seen that twice on the larger motors. Hard to tell for sure without going in to the motor. The shaking and chugging you described at low speed is what makes me think its seepage into one of the cylinders.

Lovin 4Gs 08-04-2020 04:50 AM

Dougfish, thank you for sharing. Jeffro22, I'll look into Suzuki 140 engine holder. Is it related to the dreaded corrision plug? I had that plug welded and fixed about 2 years ago. I just checked weld yesterday and it's holding up just fine. I checked oil cooler too and it all looked good, no wear on seals, holding tight, hoses looked good too. I did check my spark plugs and noticed very dark plugs on ends into engine. Some oil, not milky, was on my bottom plug tip closes to ground. It was in bad shape. I've attached a picture along with the
milky oil.

Lovin 4Gs 08-04-2020 04:55 AM

Jmeyer94, thank you. I'll check for slight water seepage.

Dougfish 08-04-2020 05:01 AM

That is a bit more “milky” than mine was but not that far off. I’ve had some rough running issues that I attribute to fouled plugs from running rich because a VST float pin failure in combination of injectors that likely had not been cleaned in a long while before I got the boat and since I got it. Heck maybe never. So this off season they will be thoroughly cleaned and tested.

Lovin 4Gs 08-04-2020 05:08 AM

Dougfish, thank you.

Inlander 08-04-2020 07:00 AM

Replaced engine holder gasket on mine but that didn’t fix it. Next option: bought a new engine. Dealer gave me $2,500 trade in on engine (for used parts).

Sorry, but oil cooler, thermostat, and VST have no relationship to water in the oil. Something is cracked.

homeby51 08-04-2020 07:07 AM

Troubleshoot properly. Perform a compression test first and If one is low then dump some gear oil in the bad cylinder and do again. This will tell you if it's rings or head as the heavy oil will seal the rings temporarily. If compression comes up the rings are shot. If compression doesn't move then chances of bad head. Let us know what you find.

Lovin 4Gs 08-04-2020 09:05 AM

Thanks Inlander and homeby51. I am leaning on buying new engine at this point as Inlander did. Repower with a new 150 or 175 Suzuki. Trim/tilt and lower unit is working great, prop is fine, I would try to get a good trade-in value too. If not, I will keep you updated on what I find out. This looks like a marine shop trouble shoot/repair as it's above my knowledge level. I'll re-post again no matter what so everyone knows what I did.

1breakinit 08-04-2020 09:30 AM

go to your local auto repair shop and grab a few jugs of used engine oil .
flush it a few times, run it on the hose with minimal water going in, IE: just enough to stop the warning from going off before you begin tear down , this way you will avoid rust on crank and other internal parts .

i am guessing you have corrosion on the cylinder head , usually a light skim and a new gasket will solve the issue , however you wont know until you tear it down..

feel free to post pics of carnage.

Lovin 4Gs 08-04-2020 10:19 AM

Thanks for your comments 1breakinit. This has been a good learning experience.

Inlander 08-04-2020 01:33 PM

In my case once you get past the engine holder gasket replacement, you start to get into serious money to break down the engine. Its a gamble and the odds are not in your favor. Further, not many shops are interested in this type of work and if they are, you probably lose the rest of the season. Its probably money down the drain better spent replacing a 15 year motor. In my case the water intrusion came after a quick hose connect was stuck open gushing water that I didnt see, so I figure there was an air bubble in the water jacket causing something to overheat and crack without an overheat warning. Ran perfectly despite the leak but all the bearings were probably compromised with the water/oil mix. So you need to figure some permanent damage has already been done even if you find the leak and fix it.

Sorry, its tough luck.

Lovin 4Gs 08-12-2020 11:33 AM

I've been working a lot but had time to run a compression test on each of the four cylinders in an attempt to get full closure on why water is in oil and why it was running rough. After running engine on ear muffs for about 10 minutes in neutral, shutting off engine, then running tests my cylinder readings were as follows:
#1: 178
#2: 170
#3: 178
#4: 182
My Suzuki owner's manual states range should be 185-242 psi (page 2-23). Homeby51, I didn't add gear oil into the cylinders because I'm not familiar with this technique to check rings or heads. All need to be within 14 psi (which they are) but the compression is too low. After this was done, I opened oil drain plug and more water in oil...! :(
Is it worth hiring a mechanic to attempt to fix at this point? Or should I just move onto another engine or boat? I appreciate everything Inlander has stated as well in terms or moving is tough luck indeed! I had great times in this boat over the last 6 years I've owned it.:)

Lovin 4Gs 08-12-2020 12:35 PM

I just spoke with a local mechanic who said he worked on a 2005 Suzuki 140 last year with identical issues. He took that engine apart per owner's request and found the cylinder wall on cylinder 3 to be corroded beyond repair. Water was coming in cylinder side wall...interesting...with age and saltwater, anything can happen! I could be experiencing something similar with my cylinder #2 at 170 psi. Moving forward, I won't be keeping any engine beyond 12 years from now on. I really think it's an age thing and not the number of hours on an engine.

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