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Another Stuckzuki lower unit thread

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Another Stuckzuki lower unit thread

Old 07-28-2020, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Kaper View Post
So you all know lowers are getting stuck. Why not to pull them more frequently on older motors working in harsh environment?
Because it's a royal pain in the ass/expensive should be unnecessary to begin with issue on a dry rack or in a slip thats why!
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Old 07-28-2020, 06:18 PM
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I have read about this problem with Suzukis many times here on The Hull. Two things: One, you should be aware of this problem with Suzukis before you buy one. Two, why hasn't this defect been solved by Suzuki ?

Suzukis are nice looking, but that isn't enough.
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Old 07-28-2020, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jeremiah2360 View Post
Because it's a royal pain in the ass/expensive should be unnecessary to begin with issue on a dry rack or in a slip thats why!
OP, I feel you pain.

Jeremiah,...as unpopular as my response may be...if you find it a "royal pain in the ass/expensive" to drop a Suzuki lower unit...maybe you should take up golf.

I would like to know how many of the stuck lowers are from boats kept in a lift in a location like Florida (basically a high salt environment) and not serviced, greased, flushed often? The reason I ask is I did maintenance on my 300s 3 or 4 times a year
and mine always looked pristine...like brand new. BUT, I fished out of Venice, LA and basically had a freshwater washdown everytime I ran back in in the Mississippi River.
Old 07-28-2020, 06:51 PM
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2017 200 four cylinders 280 hours. One slipped off like butter. The other one stuck. Of course right before snapper season started. Suzuki covered it under warranty. But the tech told me at first that they might not. I had a meltdown in the parking lot.
Old 07-28-2020, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by redfishray View Post
OP, I feel you pain.

Jeremiah,...as unpopular as my response may be...if you find it a "royal pain in the ass/expensive" to drop a Suzuki lower unit...maybe you should take up golf.

I would like to know how many of the stuck lowers are from boats kept in a lift in a location like Florida (basically a high salt environment) and not serviced, greased, flushed often? The reason I ask is I did maintenance on my 300s 3 or 4 times a year
and mine always looked pristine...like brand new. BUT, I fished out of Venice, LA and basically had a freshwater washdown everytime I ran back in in the Mississippi River.
It's not the part about dropping the lower unit it's getting on the hard to do it that can be a pain. I'm in a slip my trailer is 120 miles away roundtrip. Thats the point I was making.
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Old 07-30-2020, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Patton222 View Post
Ya know I havenít done mine yet(will in the next few weeks) but I thought I read from a reputable source that the zerk was added in the newer engines(16/17/18 not sure which year first got them) to address this exact issue. How and why it works Iíll have to get back to you. I grease my hubs and bearings through a zerk all the time, what would be so different about the top gears in a drive shaft?
Your hub has air voids that are filled with grease that you push old grease out and new grease in. The splines are a tongue/grove high precision mechanical fit so you're not squirting grease into the splines from a hand pump grease gun. It seems like no one really 100% knows what that fitting is for. My 2016 does NOT have this zerk. I have looked at others and seen it so I know where to look. I believe it was added in 17.

Originally Posted by Kaper View Post
So you all know lowers are getting stuck. Why not to pull them more frequently on older motors working in harsh environment?
Since it isnt addressed by Suzuki in their manual specifically as a maintenance interval, the consensus seems to be pull it once a year. Apparently, for some this is frequent enough and for some its not. After all this is over, I plan to discuss with the dealer. I will be pulling every 6 months now being on a trailer. Its a pain in the ass and not something an outboard owner has traditionally expected to have to do as/more frequently as changing oil.

Originally Posted by tint dude View Post
2017 200 four cylinders 280 hours. One slipped off like butter. The other one stuck. Of course right before snapper season started. Suzuki covered it under warranty. But the tech told me at first that they might not. I had a meltdown in the parking lot.
Did they have to cut it? Do you know if they tried the wedges and some heat? Or what they tried/did to break loose? Did they pull the powerhead? Again 2 motors, same exposure, side/side, one good one not. Thats crazy! Suzuki really needs to identify this issue and fix it!
Old 07-30-2020, 10:58 AM
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I read these threads with interest but never had this issue. Twin 200s (2016). All salt water use. I spray corrosion block all over them once or twice a year, drop the lowers every year and grease everything when I do. Thus far, they still look pretty new and the lower start separating under its own weight as I back the last bolt out. Hope that continues for me!
Old 07-30-2020, 12:31 PM
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It's not just a Suzuki issue. Salty Brine can hurt them all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ka2A3RdGZ0

None the less, make sure all the bolts are out but 2, and run it in gear on Muffs
Old 07-30-2020, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by InCogKneeToe View Post
It's not just a Suzuki issue. Salty Brine can hurt them all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ka2A3RdGZ0

None the less, make sure all the bolts are out but 2, and run it in gear on Muffs


That was awesome! I'm watching thinking, "Why doesn't he have that thing tied off? Is he just going to keep banging until it falls on the ground?"
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Old 07-30-2020, 03:27 PM
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I would also suggest Pirates Best at the port. I have used them and if anything, they have great customer service. Speaking though of this particular problem, I am wondering if an ongoing issue I have been having is related. My port side motor is very hard to shift. Pirates Best thought it was the gimbal, so I replaced it. I did pull the shifting linkage on the port side from the motor and it moves easily so I think it has something to do with the rod from the linkage down to the transmission. It is worse going into reverse but noticeable in both directions.

I wonder if whatever is causing these lowers to get stuck is also the cause of my issue? I had hoped the 100 hour service was going to fix it, which it did not.

As others with Zukes, I would like to know how things work out for you. Especially if it is inevitable that I will see this eventually on one of my 2008 motors.
Old 07-30-2020, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by InCogKneeToe View Post
It's not just a Suzuki issue. Salty Brine can hurt them all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ka2A3RdGZ0

None the less, make sure all the bolts are out but 2, and run it in gear on Muffs
What a hack! I can't believe the LU was not tied off. There was enough gap in there to use a longer bolt with a nut/washer in between LU and midsection to just wrench it out like a puller
Old 08-01-2020, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by InCogKneeToe View Post
It's not just a Suzuki issue. Salty Brine can hurt them all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ka2A3RdGZ0

None the less, make sure all the bolts are out but 2, and run it in gear on Muffs
haha - agree on the "what a hack" comment. I like how the video says "master tech" as he lets it just fall and bend the driveshaft!! You can see by the condition that tilt/trim is in that motor most likely had shit for maintenance. The difference with Suzuki problem is that its a consistent problem of all horsepower's (atleast 175-300) with motors that people are maintaining. Also, I tried running it already as you suggested. Did not drop at all.....

Originally Posted by frogbite View Post
I would also suggest Pirates Best at the port..
Hey thanks for another vote of confidence. I actually called them after HSP made the recommendation and booked an appt for Monday at 1 PM - the service guy said they deal with this all the time and have only had to cut 3 and all were poorly maintained. Nothing against boathouse, I love that store, just got a better feeling with Pirates. They will be trying to break it loose while I wait so I should know something Monday.
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Old 08-01-2020, 10:18 AM
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Hereís what mine looked like after 200 hrs, df150. Came out with some tugging, didnít drop right out for sure.
Old 08-01-2020, 10:34 AM
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My main reason for recommending them they only sell Suzuki pretty much. They sell a bunch of them and feel like if they had to go to bat for someone they may have better luck then another place that sells all brands.


Originally Posted by chad.sfds View Post
haha - agree on the "what a hack" comment. I like how the video says "master tech" as he lets it just fall and bend the driveshaft!! You can see by the condition that tilt/trim is in that motor most likely had shit for maintenance. The difference with Suzuki problem is that its a consistent problem of all horsepower's (atleast 175-300) with motors that people are maintaining. Also, I tried running it already as you suggested. Did not drop at all.....



Hey thanks for another vote of confidence. I actually called them after HSP made the recommendation and booked an appt for Monday at 1 PM - the service guy said they deal with this all the time and have only had to cut 3 and all were poorly maintained. Nothing against boathouse, I love that store, just got a better feeling with Pirates. They will be trying to break it loose while I wait so I should know something Monday.
Old 08-01-2020, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by jeremiah2360 View Post
Because it's a royal pain in the ass/expensive should be unnecessary to begin with issue on a dry rack or in a slip thats why!
Boating is expensive if you are not willing to do the simple maintenance yourself. Sorry.

Originally Posted by chad.sfds View Post
...



Since it isnt addressed by Suzuki in their manual specifically as a maintenance interval, the consensus seems to be pull it once a year. Apparently, for some this is frequent enough and for some its not. After all this is over, I plan to discuss with the dealer. I will be pulling every 6 months now being on a trailer. Its a pain in the ass and not something an outboard owner has traditionally expected to have to do as/more frequently as changing oil.



Did they have to cut it? Do you know if they tried the wedges and some heat? Or what they tried/did to break loose? Did they pull the powerhead? Again 2 motors, same exposure, side/side, one good one not. Thats crazy! Suzuki really needs to identify this issue and fix it!
I couldnít believe your statement in regard to service manual therefore I went back and checked. Sure enough your statement was incorrect as applied to your particular case. Service interval is 200hrs/12 months. This mean whatever comes up first. You ought to do water pump service at 200 hours, which you increased to 300 hours (50%), you didnít even obey that 1 year limit, but extended it too, right?

Anyhow, upon closer examination looks like lack of maintenance.

Also please note, those time based service intervals are intended for normal use, whatever that mean. If you running your engine in more extreme way, in extreme environment, running more than average user etc you must consider condition based maintenance. Do the maintenance when needed!


Last edited by Kaper; 08-01-2020 at 10:53 AM.
Old 08-01-2020, 02:24 PM
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I wonder what the weather will be? Just spent the last 3 hours and a trip to West Marine to get the auto bilge pump working on my front bilge pump.

Let us know how things go on Monday. I have had them run out and do things in the parking lot a few times with me. They always seem ready to jump in for Suzuki customers. [

QUOTE=chad.sfds;13911600]haha - agree on the "what a hack" comment. I like how the video says "master tech" as he lets it just fall and bend the driveshaft!! You can see by the condition that tilt/trim is in that motor most likely had shit for maintenance. The difference with Suzuki problem is that its a consistent problem of all horsepower's (atleast 175-300) with motors that people are maintaining. Also, I tried running it already as you suggested. Did not drop at all.....



Hey thanks for another vote of confidence. I actually called them after HSP made the recommendation and booked an appt for Monday at 1 PM - the service guy said they deal with this all the time and have only had to cut 3 and all were poorly maintained. Nothing against boathouse, I love that store, just got a better feeling with Pirates. They will be trying to break it loose while I wait so I should know something Monday.[/QUOTE]

I wonder what the weather will be? Just spent the last 3 hours and a trip to West Marine to get the auto bilge pump working on my front bilge pump.

Let us know how things go on Monday. I have had them run out and do things in the parking lot a few times with me. They always seem ready to jump in for Suzuki customers.
Old 08-01-2020, 02:52 PM
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Just curious if there are any trends for this problem.

Is it wet slipped?
do you back into seas while fishing?

trying to see if there are common denominators, all perfectly normal that contributes.
Old 08-01-2020, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ktroyer2265 View Post
OP, hopefully it works out for you and they can get it off without an issue.

In another sense, this is a very common and known problem. I dont understand why people dont just drop the lower every 6 months or so and apply some grease and be on their way? Literally takes 15 mins. They saved thousands by buying a suzuki over another brand. Whats the big deal with spending an extra 15 mins a year for some preventative maintenance?
I guess some choose better metal at more $$ so they donít have to deal with stuck lowers and faulty c10 gauges. I bet they fix both soon. Otherwise seem like good/quiet engines. Bet the price goes up when money is spent to remedy the stuck lowers whether itís better metals or whatever is needed.
Old 08-01-2020, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MaseTime View Post

Hereís what mine looked like after 200 hrs, df150. Came out with some tugging, didnít drop right out for sure.
Originally Posted by Layedback View Post
I guess some choose better metal at more $$ so they donít have to deal with stuck lowers and faulty c10 gauges. I bet they fix both soon. Otherwise seem like good/quiet engines. Bet the price goes up when money is spent to remedy the stuck lowers whether itís better metals or whatever is needed.
Look at this caked grease and explain how it is a "metal" selection problem? Who are the "same" without stuck lowers? So far I see all the manufacturers represented online with this issue. Do your maintenance on time using proper lubricant and you will be fine.
BTW do you seriously believe Suzuki makes C10 gauges?

Regardless, I was looking at how I would approach separation of stuck shaft. How much meat is there in the skeg to drill through and hook up this baby:

Old 08-02-2020, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Kaper View Post
Boating is expensive if you are not willing to do the simple maintenance yourself. Sorry.



I couldnít believe your statement in regard to service manual therefore I went back and checked. Sure enough your statement was incorrect as applied to your particular case. Service interval is 200hrs/12 months. This mean whatever comes up first. You ought to do water pump service at 200 hours, which you increased to 300 hours (50%), you didnít even obey that 1 year limit, but extended it too, right?

Anyhow, upon closer examination looks like lack of maintenance.
Look, I see you're a fanboy and also appear to like to argue just to argue. I love my Suzuki too, but I can admit a trend when I see one good or bad. You mis-interpreted what I meant - there is nothing called out in the manual "grease drive shaft" to give a guideline from Suzuki since clearly its required more regular than other motors. Every other motor I have ever owned, greasing at every impeller change (300 hours) have had not 1 issue. Suzuki is the only motor I am aware of that this is required. The dealer I bought from said drop once a year and grease and that is what I have followed. I will concede your point that if you were inspecting the impeller at 200 hours (why the **** would you do that since they recommend replacement at 300), logically it would get greased. I have done my maintenance by what reasonable people would consider "by the book". This is all preventative maintenance. Its not supposed to be that if you do it at 204 hours instead of 200 hours shit goes completely sideways. But see it how you want to.

Originally Posted by Kaper View Post
Look at this caked grease and explain how it is a "metal" selection problem?

Regardless, I was looking at how I would approach separation of stuck shaft. How much meat is there in the skeg to drill through and hook up this baby:
As I understand his post that is at 200 hours so you can ask Suzuki why their grease is cooked at 200 hours. Also, see the picture from fly186 on page 1 where the driven gear looks like a piece of zinc plated metal.

I will be sure and pass this new method onto the the experts to drill a hole in the skeg - why havent they thought of that
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