Notices
The Boating Forum

Lenco Trim Tab Failure

Old 05-31-2020, 08:00 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: NOLA Brah
Posts: 2,848
Received 545 Likes on 337 Posts
Default Lenco Trim Tab Failure

Once again I must engage the THT brain trust.

Yesterday we took the boat out for a day of fishing. The 20+ mile ride out was all just fine, everything worked as usual. We did some rig hopping, short distance stuff (no tab being used on this). After a few hours we headed back in and the port trim tab would not respond to the helm switch. Starboard tab worked just fine. The helm switch showed power to both tabs, but the port tab would not advance past the first bar (which was lit red) while the starboard tab lit several bars as it would normally.

I'm not sure on this, but I think the Lenco actuator is the 102 HD/XD 4-1/4 stroke 12 volt. Part number Part # 15060-001. Does anyone know on a 2004 25' Contender if that is the right part?


Secondly, before I spring for this part, what type of troubleshooting should I try first. I'm a total novice on this, so please be as specific as possible.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Edit: After taking some measurments I'm thinking it's this part # 101 XD Actuator, Part # 15055-001.

Edit 2: Lenco has a .pdf chart that identifies a stamped number on the actuator. I didn't see it at first. Based on that number and their conversion chart, the correct part is the 15056-001, 101 XD 2.25" 12 Volt, 3/8" top and bottom mounting holes.

Edit 3: I should also mention that when I press the port button on the switch nothing happens as far as the red lights go. I understand this is not a smart switch, but rather works just on a timer basis, i.e. after 1 or 2 seconds the next light comes on. In my case you can press the button repeatedly or just hold it down and still nothing happens.

Last edited by Rollo Tomassi; 05-31-2020 at 09:36 AM.
Old 05-31-2020, 08:47 AM
  #2  
Admirals ClubCaptains Club Member Admiral's Club Member
THT sponsor
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: At the floaters . . .
Posts: 9,680
Received 3,309 Likes on 1,559 Posts
Default

there is a connector for the actuator, pull it apart and test with a dvom

if it is showing power (in both directions) it is the actuator

if not, work your way back from there

let me know if you need a hand
Old 05-31-2020, 09:12 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 497
Received 134 Likes on 69 Posts
Default

Mine quit. I followed the troubleshooting advice and found my actuator motor was seized due to water intrusion. Found a replacement motor on eBay for $55.

Old 05-31-2020, 09:22 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: NOLA Brah
Posts: 2,848
Received 545 Likes on 337 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rbhankins001 View Post
there is a connector for the actuator, pull it apart and test with a dvom

if it is showing power (in both directions) it is the actuator

if not, work your way back from there

let me know if you need a hand
Thanks Robert. I'll get into it this week. With this Euro style transom (which is really deep) I'm afraid I might need a small guy (or kid) to get into the bilge if the wiring connector isn't close enough to reach by arms length. That's always the problem in this bilge. Nice to look at but a nightmare to work in.

When you say test in both directions, how do I do this? What's the process?

Originally Posted by Reel Fas View Post
Mine quit. I followed the troubleshooting advice and found my actuator motor was seized due to water intrusion. Found a replacement motor on eBay for $55.

That is a very interesting solution. Thanks for the intel. How does the outer body come apart? Does it screw together or is it fitted by simple compression? With that type of corrosion how did you get it apart?

Last edited by Rollo Tomassi; 05-31-2020 at 09:37 AM.
Old 05-31-2020, 09:22 AM
  #5  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Coast of Florida
Posts: 377
Received 125 Likes on 81 Posts
Default

Hummm......$64 total for the motor to go back in a leaking cylinder? New O-rings or not, I'd have to think about that. I found new cylinders a few years ago for $129 total on eBay, just went ahead and bought two. Figured I'd need a spare someday, yep 9 months later I did. Now I see the $129 replacements are a thing of the past!!
Old 06-03-2020, 09:46 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: NOLA Brah
Posts: 2,848
Received 545 Likes on 337 Posts
Default



No matter how you press the switch in the above picture, the left side gives no response. The right side works as it should and the trim tab responds accordingly.



I had my meter set to 200k Ohms. as you can see, the 2 pins at the top show 06.5K Ohms, while the 2 pins on the bottom show 46.3K Ohms
The 3 sets of pins in the middle do not register a reading.



The top 2 pins are purple and grey and the bottom 2 pins are red and black. They each show 4.9 VDC on my meter. All the wires in the middle didn't show any meaningful voltage.


Do these readings indicate the switch is bad? I'm thinking it is, but before I spring for a new switch I'd like some feedback if you're certain of what these readings indicate.

THANKS!!!
Old 08-02-2020, 07:48 PM
  #7  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: BATON ROUGE, LA
Posts: 265
Received 23 Likes on 20 Posts
Default

Rollo what did you do to fix your problem? I have the same issue.
Old 08-03-2020, 06:03 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: NOLA Brah
Posts: 2,848
Received 545 Likes on 337 Posts
Default

^^It turned out to be a bad butt connection in a splice that was hiding inside that infernal eurotransom. Didn't find this out until after I had replaced the switch and had a new actuator on order. So basically for me it was a whole new system.

Just to recap my problem... First Lenco CS told me to replace the switch. But, the new switch is totally different than the old system that had the simple switch body and a secondary wiring box. Now, everything is contained in the switch itself. I had to rip the old box out and splice in all the new wires. After that the new switch was showing a fault code (every other LED was lighted indicating no power to the actuator). Then I did a test connection from the new actuator to the new switch and everything worked as it was supposed to. It was during the replacement of the old actuator that I found the failed butt connection. FWIW, I took the old actuator apart and put voltage directly on the old motor via a spare 12V battery and it spun like a top, so there was nothing actually wrong with the actuator itself. Very frustrating and an expensive fix when all that was wrong was a bad wire.

You either have a problem in a wire, a dead actuator or a bad switch or a combination of the three. Check the wire connection at the actuator itself to see if you are getting voltage there. If so, put voltage directly on the actuator motor (you'll have to pull it apart, but that's easy to do and you'll need a secondary battery or 12V power source) and see if it functions. If it does your switch is bad, if it doesn't your problem is in the actuator. A replacement motor can be ordered from eBay on the cheap.

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.