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Outboard rookie

Old 05-24-2020, 06:18 PM
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Default Outboard rookie

Hey guys, you all helped me in the past so I thought I would give it another go.

I had a local boat shop get my (1991 possibly?) Johnson 50hp running 2 years ago and I got the boat riding perfectly. Last year it didnít run because we were re doing our shoreline.

i replaced the fuel line and went to get it running this weekend. New fuel. When I open up the primer solenoid it runs. When I close it it doesnít keep running. I pulled the screws at the bottom of the carb bowls and it has fuel/oil mixture in them. When I pump the primer ball it flows more so it seems good. When I choke the motor with the prime solenoid forced open rpms go up etc. does anyone know why or if fuel is not getting through carbs? It doesnít even attempt to fire without that primer solenoid forced open.

Thanks guys!
Old 05-24-2020, 06:35 PM
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Sure sounds like time for a proper carb clean, no you can't spray stuff, no you can't run a can of Seafoam, no you can't add Stabil, fool around or fix it, your choice.
Old 05-24-2020, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by noelm View Post
Sure sounds like time for a proper carb clean, no you can't spray stuff, no you can't run a can of Seafoam, no you can't add Stabil, fool around or fix it, your choice.

thanks for the reply noelm. Ya I was afraid of that. Is that a common fix? They rebuilt the carbs 2 years ago and it only has maybe an hour or 2 on it since then. I assume that is part of the problem
Old 05-24-2020, 08:02 PM
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Yes, very common, fuel dries up, leaves crap behind, blocks jets, air passages and so on, it's not hard to do with pretty basic skills and hand tools.
Old 05-24-2020, 08:29 PM
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Do I need to pull the carbs right off I assume?
Old 05-24-2020, 09:55 PM
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Yes, they need to be fully dismantled and all the passages cleaned, washing, spraying, looking at, is not cleaning.
Old 05-24-2020, 11:32 PM
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Next time you store your boat, when you get done flushing the motors, run them dry. Cut off the fuel supply. Check with manufacturer or certified mechanic before you do this. I personally don’t see this being an issue with a 2 stroke with premix.
Old 05-25-2020, 03:55 AM
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This particular motor is oil injected not premixed. Iím not sure if you can pull the oil hose right off the motor or not
Old 05-25-2020, 04:39 AM
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You should have a hookup that looks like this at the front of the motor, just push the lever and pull it back.
Doing this in my opinion is the only way to keep those carbs clean.
I did it after every trip unless I was fishing the next day and I never had a carb issue with my old motor.

Old 05-25-2020, 04:45 AM
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Iíll have to look if the oil has the same connection. I know the fuel has that but I donít recall the oil having that connection
Old 05-25-2020, 05:01 AM
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Oil will not have the same connection, and you donít need to unhook the oil or worry about the oil at all really.
Just pull the gas line and let it Run till it shuts off.
Old 05-25-2020, 07:45 AM
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If your engine has a vro pump do not run the engine dry of fuel. The pump will cycle very fast as there is no fuel resistance and could possibly break the air motor in the pump before the engine dies. Use a good quality stabilizer and shut it down.
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Old 05-25-2020, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by nautikel View Post
Next time you store your boat, when you get done flushing the motors, run them dry. Cut off the fuel supply. Check with manufacturer or certified mechanic before you do this. I personally don’t see this being an issue with a 2 stroke with premix.
Do this if storing boat with regular non-ethanol fuel for more than 2 months ( I did it every time I used it)and empty the fuel tank of all fuel. Reg fuel leaves a varnish on everything, that's why you need to clean the carbs all the time Use a fuel stabilizer with fuel line cleaner regularly.

I had to do this on my ole boats to keep them running good all the time. They don't call it rec90 for nothing
Old 05-25-2020, 09:47 AM
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So basically where Iím at now, Iíll need to drain all the fuel from the fuel lines to the fuel pump, from the fuel pump to the carbs, drain the carb bowls. Pull the carbs, clean them all up. And moving forward make sure I have stabilizer and proper additives in every time I fill it, or if itís going to be sitting for a while correct?
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Old 05-25-2020, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Hydrarude1750DC View Post
If your engine has a vro pump do not run the engine dry of fuel. The pump will cycle very fast as there is no fuel resistance and could possibly break the air motor in the pump before the engine dies. Use a good quality stabilizer and shut it down.
Plus 1.... I would only run a 2 stroke dry if the oil was mixed with the gas (no VRO) and only at idle. That is what I meant in my prior post.
Old 05-25-2020, 02:43 PM
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Leave the oil line alone , no need to pull it.
Don’t run it dry in the future, but do use non ethanol fuel and stabil at a storage rate when sitting up for awhile.
The Stabil can’t work if the carbs don’t have it in them sitting. Ethenol fuel will jelly up sitting in the heat.
Replace the quick connect fuel fitting , its a notorious place for air leaks.
Pull the carbs and rebuild them with kits. Not just a cleaning.
Ethenol will eat up seals and seats in the carbs after siting, corrosion .
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Old 05-28-2020, 08:11 PM
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Stupid question guys.. my fuel tank is an old Johnson tank. I donít see a tank vent. Could I be getting a vacuum lock that isnít letting any fuel to flow through after I prime the ball?
Old 05-28-2020, 08:23 PM
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Quickest way to check for a blocked vent is just crack the filler cap and see if that cures it. Open it a full turn or so.
Old 05-28-2020, 09:37 PM
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Yea Iím going to try that when I head to the cabin tomorrow. For some reason I think it could be one of the problems
Old 05-29-2020, 04:19 AM
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Dan- I think you're kidding yourself. Is the vent somehow different than last time you used the boat?

If the boat was stored for two years with pump gas and no fuel stabilizer (if I'm reading this right), you need to rebuild those carbs....period. Engine will run infinitely better after the rebuilds.....

My .02

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