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Trailer lights

Old 05-18-2020, 05:50 AM
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Default Trailer lights

Is there any getting around having to re-work or replace these damn things every few months?
It seems that no matter what I do, how expensive I buy, how well I try to water proof. Same thing occurs.
No lights, or most functions of them not working in a short period of time.

I trailer. I fish a ridiculous amount of times a year. So the lights are under water 3 times a week or more.
Has anyone managed to solve this dilemma?
Im so tired of constantly having to replace these things !

Old 05-18-2020, 06:33 AM
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I trailer during the season and like yourself dunk the trailer 2-3X min a week. Last year i bought a few spools of marine tinned wire, ancor heat shrink connectors, and ran every wire individually to a junction box on the winch post. So far so good, although my amazon junction box as of suspect quality.
Old 05-18-2020, 06:39 AM
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I mounted my lights on the trailer guide on post.
This way they stay above the water.
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Old 05-18-2020, 06:51 AM
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Depending on the size of the boat/trailer- I've seen some folks in rural Maryland have their trailer lights mounted on a 2x4 along the back of the trailer. when it comes time to dunk the trailer they take the 2x4 off and stow it in the bed of the pickup so it never gets wet.
Old 05-18-2020, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Ray G View Post
I trailer during the season and like yourself dunk the trailer 2-3X min a week. Last year i bought a few spools of marine tinned wire, ancor heat shrink connectors, and ran every wire individually to a junction box on the winch post. So far so good, although my amazon junction box as of suspect quality.
Just did the same. Seems this is the best option for long term. Although I had a side marker go out that is not even submerged, I think those things just suck.
Old 05-18-2020, 07:03 AM
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Keep them out of the water on guide posts.
Old 05-18-2020, 07:06 AM
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Take note, trailer lights labeled water proof are not submersible and Submersible lights are limited water proof.
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Old 05-18-2020, 07:07 AM
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LED lights, tinned marine wire, heatshrink adhesive lined anchor connectors, separate wire with ground to Junction box near coupler. 5 years now with zero issues and I trailer every week.
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Old 05-18-2020, 07:08 AM
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I have more issues with the connections and the ground than the actual light failing. Knock on wood I have a set of LED lights that have lasted 3 seasons. I have re wired them several times. but so far they still light up.
Old 05-18-2020, 07:12 AM
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I had a vehicle towed last week and the tow truck had wireless trailer lights. Bluetooth. His set was commercial grade stuff. Real nice.
I'm done with wires plugs and dunking lights. Gonna shop for a set.
https://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wir.../LIW-LDTL.html
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Old 05-18-2020, 07:40 AM
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Led lights, ancor heat shrink connectors (the ones that ooze out sealant). Make sure to not break the surface on the connector when crimping. I never use anything else other then the bare connector. They never fail after many years and many trailers. The led's go bad or more often a corroded ground on trailer.
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Old 05-18-2020, 07:46 AM
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Do not ground to the frame. Run an additional white wire with the yellow, green, brown. Use correct size crimps for wire w/o insulation. Cover with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.
Any plug in connectors get diaelectric grease.

Old 05-18-2020, 10:58 AM
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LED, Dielectric grease, separate ground, silicone, silicone, and more silicone.
Old 05-18-2020, 11:02 AM
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Tec nic LED lights, I installed them 5/6 years ago and have not had to touch them since. I did ground all parts of the frame to the tongue though by running separate grounding wires. Easier than snaking wires thru the frame and worked just fine. When I replace the harness next time then I’ll make up one continuous grounding wire....
Old 05-18-2020, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by SeaCat22 View Post
I had a vehicle towed last week and the tow truck had wireless trailer lights. Bluetooth. His set was commercial grade stuff. Real nice.
I'm done with wires plugs and dunking lights. Gonna shop for a set.
https://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Wir.../LIW-LDTL.html
this is interesting but where would you mount this thing on a boat trailer?
Old 05-18-2020, 12:42 PM
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Thanks for the responses guys.
I have tried a lot of things. I have not tried tinned wire to a junction box.
Going to give this a try.
I have used a ton of that adhesive heat shrink stuff. it has its uses and
It’s better than non adhesive but is still limited, especially getting dunked.
Old 05-18-2020, 01:21 PM
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I also unplug the harness before backing the trailer into water. The hot bulbs don’t like cold water.
Old 05-18-2020, 01:45 PM
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Good advice, lol!
Old 05-18-2020, 03:56 PM
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Go with Ancor Marine wire, it is tinned copper and extremely good quality. I redid one of my trailers (our cabin cruiser that we trailer all over the country, so I needed complete reliability) and have home runs on every circuit so the only possible points of failure are at the connection at the light or at my fuse box. The only lights in the circuit that are piggy backed, are the side marker lights, as there are too many to have home runs on each one. Every light has it's own fuse, to eliminate total failures. I went way above and beyond on this, but that's what I do on everything I do. Every splice uses marine heat shrink butt splice connectors, along with adhesive heat shrink over that, ensuring no moisture gets in.Here is the drawing I made on MS Visio, along with a couple pictures and a before/ after. I am trying to get Myco to adopt my design, or at least get them to start using Ancor Marine wiring. For people who don't want to go as detailed as I have, but still want a quality marine grade wire, Ancor does make a 4 wire (brown, yellow, white, green) trailer wire for running lights/ brake lights/ left & right turn:

https://www.ancorproducts.com/en/154010

My whole reason for doing this was because of the crappy wire, that even Myco uses, which deteriorated at one of the marker lights. This caused a short and killed 100% of my running lights. Being an oversize load, I just cant take the chance. Now, if something light that happens, it will only take out the lights in the circuit via the fuse. In my case, I would have only lost my port side marker lights and nothing else, which is manageable.

Also, FWIW, I keep a spare portable light set in my trailer tool box just in case. If for some reason I lost all 4 tail lights (could happen having the loop for the swing guard compromised), I would plug this into the 5th wheel 7 pin in my bed and leave the trailer 7 pin plugged in as normal on the traditional receiver to retain trailer brakes.

Another cool thing I have done, is purchased a trailer light test box. This is wired to the group 31 AGM battery on my trailer. I jumpered the running lights, left turn signal, and right turn signal circuit, to allow the running lights (and strobes) to stay on, along with the hazard lights. This way, if I happen to have something catastrophic happen and need to leave the boat on the side of the road, it will still be very visible. I do have 2 spares tires and 4 spare complete hubs, but you never know ha.

This was a fun winter project for me. During this time, I added the strobe lights, amber arrow side turn signals, mud flaps, and red arrow signals on the mud flaps. The only bad thing is I have 4 other Myco trailers that I now want to do this to lol.














Old 05-18-2020, 05:56 PM
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Run full length wires to each light individually using duplex or triplex wire as appropriate and install a junction box on the front of the trailer in a location that doesn’t get dunked when you launch the boat. Don’t ground to the trailer, run those all back to the junction box as well. Adhesive lined heat shrink connectors for everything. Mount your main lights on guide posts so they don’t go under water either.
It’s expensive to wire a trailer this way but you won’t have to mess with it again for a long time.
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