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1999 Johnson 200 OB

Old 04-07-2020, 10:28 AM
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Default 1999 Johnson 200 OB

Engine runs great at all speeds, however it is rough at Idle when first starting AND it coughs, chokes then stalls when coming down from higher speeds and bringing it to neutral after running great at higher sppeds. It then takes 2-3 attempts to restart ( It just grunts when turning key but ultimately starts. Carbon build up? Or any suggestions would be very much appreciated.
Engine sits on a Boston Whaler Revenge 22' W.T.
Thank you !!
Old 04-07-2020, 11:25 AM
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Sounds like a lean sneeze, would that be a better description of it at idle?

the butterflies of the carbs have to be fully closed in the neutral position...refer to your link-sync procedure to get it right......then check the idle speed with a tach ...if too low then adjust it by increasing the timing not by cracking the butterflies open...refer to your service manual for adjusting the idle speed timing.

report back after doing that
Old 04-07-2020, 01:58 PM
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Thanks for response, I'm sitting in dock now after another run, it only did it once after long, fast run, when I throttled down to just prior to neutral, it made a knocking sound and stalled. It started back up 1st attempt but knocked 2-3 times like starving for fuel?
then it knocked about 4-5 times in no wake slow zone, when I gave it gas it was fine. Initiced gas ball soft, I pumped it, frightened those to water/ fuel separator and it idles in fine without issue... so I'm thinking gas issue?? Gas line loose to water fuel sap?
Old 04-07-2020, 03:24 PM
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Hmmmm sounds like the shift interrupter switch.

There is a spring loaded switch at the shift rod that will kill one side of the engine to make it easier to shift in and out of gear. You can temporarily disable it by following the black/yellow wire of the switch to its connector and disconnect it and retest your trip.
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Old 04-07-2020, 04:46 PM
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Default Thank u

I will give that a shot, I'm aware of that switch but didnt realize it would cause engine to clunk and stall
Old 04-07-2020, 05:10 PM
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Do the basic trouble shooting, spark, new plugs, compression check, run off a remote tank and hose with fresh fuel, then rebuild/clean carbs, don't spray them, run Seafoam through them or wash them.
Old 04-07-2020, 05:15 PM
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had that same issue , nothing short of a carb rebuild will do, its 20 years old, you dont want to lean out your motor
Old 04-08-2020, 05:51 AM
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Default Why rebuild carbs for sparatic clunk ?

It stalls Only after I have been running for a while , once or twice during entire day and does start up and runs fine besides a couple more hiccups. I used seafoam spray and seafoam gas treatment. It got better when I adjusted gas clamps on hose
Old 04-08-2020, 06:23 AM
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I run a Johnnyrude 115hp, 4cyl version of your motor essentially. Boat was on the hard for 6yrs, ran like hell. Ordered rebuild kits online, rebuIlt the carbs on the Dining room table, wife loved That! Boat runs better than when I picked it up 16yrs ago..... Rebuild was not too difficult as long as you’re not all thumbs.
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Old 04-08-2020, 06:31 AM
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Default Thank U

Charles M, sounds Good... thanks for response, if that does it as you and other gentlemen says, I think I will try it, what would a 6 cyl. Carb Rebuild kit run me?
Old 04-08-2020, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by w00dst0ck65 View Post
I will give that a shot, I'm aware of that switch but didnt realize it would cause engine to clunk and stall
Sometimes they stick thus your motor would only be running on 3 cylinders.

it is a weird spring loaded design that only engages momentarily if everything it right.

In my case the bracket that holds the device (pressed onto the horizontal pin) was coming loose. So when I was shifting the switch would engage for a longer period than necessary and stall the motor....super frustrating at the dock when you are going in and out gear numerous times.

My fix was to get a tig welder to weld the parts together at the proper orientation...

A carb rebuild wouldn't be a bad thing either...super easy .
NOTE: if your float bowls have a raised lip where the float valve is, do not use the nylon washer that is supplied with the kit. IF your bowl does NOT have that lip, then use the white nylon washer under your valve seat...
NOTE: I don't know if your carbs use an idle mixture screw or idle air bleeds, but it uses screws, label each carb, and count how many turns it takes to fully seat each screw on each carb at each position. Initially they should all be the same, but over time through adjustments they can become different in order to make motor run the best. You probably don't have a tool that fits in the carb's throat to adjust the idle mixture screws to get the best vacuum for each carb, but that is how it is done multi-carbed classic cars.
NOTE: if just have air bleeds on your carbs, be sure to NOT mix the location of the air bleeds, they have different sized openings and they need to go in exactly the same position as when the carbs came off. They each have a number stamped on their face. Note the location and stamped number of the bleeds for each carb.
Old 04-10-2020, 11:47 AM
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Default Switch

Cfauvel, U were correct, I disconnected switch and it's like a different engine, thank you
Old 04-10-2020, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by w00dst0ck65 View Post
Cfauvel, U were correct, I disconnected switch and it's like a different engine, thank you
Cool :-)

is the switch sticking or the bracket to which it attaches loose....not too expensive to get a new one, but they usually don't go bad per se, just stick...some CRC electronics cleaner should clear that up if still functioning and not a bracket issue.
Old 04-10-2020, 12:17 PM
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Edit - I see this was fixed. Nice work.

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