Notices
The Boating Forum

Rewiring

Old 12-02-2019, 08:41 PM
  #1  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Rewiring

I want to move my battery from the tea some of the boat to the center console. The positive and negative are not long enough to make the run. What is the best way to wire this?
Old 12-02-2019, 09:46 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
Received 176 Likes on 97 Posts
Default

wire it to a blue sea dualbus hub.
Old 12-02-2019, 10:06 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 562
Likes: 0
Received 227 Likes on 127 Posts
Default

to answer this we need to know how long the wire run is, and what gauge wire you already have.. It should be marked on the wire, probably a 2 or 4, or even a 0.
Old 12-03-2019, 04:02 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 7,813
Received 1,406 Likes on 1,074 Posts
Default

outboard manufacturers recommend the minimum wire gauge needed
to extend or replace the original cable, depending on length

what motor do you have?

Name:  battery-extend.jpg
Views: 454
Size:  39.2 KB
Old 12-03-2019, 04:52 AM
  #5  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Fwpratt View Post
outboard manufacturers recommend the minimum wire gauge needed
to extend or replace the original cable, depending on length

what motor do you have?

Attachment 1107759
I have a 2004 Mercury 150 SWS. The current battery cables are the manufacturer cables that run to the battery and on/off switch in a rear hatch. I’d like to move the battery and add another battery as well. Should I just keep the switch in that location and run a positive to the console and place a negative terminal near the switch?
Old 12-03-2019, 05:23 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 7,813
Received 1,406 Likes on 1,074 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by primo85 View Post
Should I just keep the switch in that location and run a positive to the console and place a negative terminal near the switch?
You'll need at least one 'power post' where the current battery is,
to join the engine negative cable with the extension cable;
leaving the switch there would be an option, with only one battery -
as pictured above.

But with two batteries, you'll want to move the switch close to them.
So use dual power posts where the battery & switch currently are,
as suggested above.

You'll want to determine how long the additional wires are going to be -
to go from the current battery location to the new spot -
running a piece of rope through the actual pathway is an easy way to measure.
The result informs the decision on what wire gauge to use.
Old 12-03-2019, 06:35 AM
  #7  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Annapolis, MD
Posts: 1,044
Received 382 Likes on 201 Posts
Default

Your existing power harness is very likely 4AWG. This is good to about 15' or so. If your boat is powered by a single 150 HP engine, I suspect it is <20' LOA, so the console is maybe 10'-12' +/- from the engine. With turns in the wire path, you are probably beyond 15' total length. Using 2AWG for the extension will be adequate.
Old 12-03-2019, 07:13 AM
  #8  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I haven’t looked at the current power cables from the engine, but is it possible to just replace the originals with new positive and negative 2 or 4 gauge and run directly to the console? Would that be better than power posts?
Old 12-03-2019, 07:39 AM
  #9  
mbb
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: State of confusion
Posts: 3,210
Received 1,016 Likes on 546 Posts
Default

Yur about to discover how much large gauge marine wire costs.

Cranking isnt continuous duty, so minimum V to starter is whats important. Wires can be marginally sized, as opposed to typical wire sizing for continuous service.

Ive used fine strand welding cable before, far cheaper than tinned marine wire. Many motors starter cables are not tinned marine wire. But i solder and crimp also, and dont expose to oil/gas, etc. No, might not meet abyc standards, but its my boat.

Last edited by mbb; 12-03-2019 at 07:52 AM.
Old 12-03-2019, 08:58 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 7,813
Received 1,406 Likes on 1,074 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by primo85 View Post
is it possible to just replace the originals with new positive and negative 2 or 4 gauge and run directly to the console? Would that be better than power posts?
there is nothing inherently wrong with power posts,
if installed properly, in an acceptable location.

Whether there is any downside to entirely new full length cables,
(besides, likely, more $)
depends on specifics like
- will they fit through the engine rigging grommet / tube
- require special terminal ends at the motor
Old 12-03-2019, 10:23 AM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Jax, Fl
Posts: 4,407
Received 625 Likes on 386 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by primo85 View Post
I want to move my battery from the tea some of the boat to the center console. The positive and negative are not long enough to make the run. What is the best way to wire this?
the best way is to replace the runs. It is possible but not better to splice, crimp etc.

Use this calculator to determine wire size:
Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems

get your wire here:
https://www.genuinedealz.com/

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.