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Loctite PL marine fast cure adhesive sealant

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Loctite PL marine fast cure adhesive sealant

Old 11-18-2019, 12:30 PM
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Default Loctite PL marine fast cure adhesive sealant

Can someone chime in on how "Dissasembly Friendly" this product is? I'd like to use it as a sealant for re-attaching my stainless arch to the bridge fiberglass sides. There will be a 3/4" polyethelene stand off block between mounting plate in arch and also a 12 ga. stainless back up plate on the inside of bridge side's.
Old 11-18-2019, 12:31 PM
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Welcome to the forum.

I'm interested in what the answer is to your question.
Old 11-18-2019, 01:49 PM
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It is more of a sealant than adhesive.

Use debond or release agent when disassembling, it will melt away the toughest adhesives
Old 11-18-2019, 02:15 PM
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I thought it's about the same as 3m 5200. I have used it and the adhesion is good enough to rip a layer of glass off when removing the part. Prob a good idea to use the release agent.
Old 11-18-2019, 02:21 PM
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It a sealant AND and adhesive. Bonds extremely well to prepared surfaces, best supplemented by fasteners, just like 4200. Remains very flexible, items can be removed usually a razor helps to separate the components. Just used it on a bridge hatch that I had to remove an hour later. Was set in the pretty good, but was able to get a razor in to release it.
Old 11-18-2019, 03:06 PM
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It will not stick to the polyethylene stand off at all. So if you want strength and adhesion, you should not use polyethylene for the stand off. Maybe you can have a stainless stand off made and welded on?
Old 11-18-2019, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Hammerhands View Post
Can someone chime in on how "Dissasembly Friendly" this product is? I'd like to use it as a sealant for re-attaching my stainless arch to the bridge fiberglass sides. There will be a 3/4" polyethelene stand off block between mounting plate in arch and also a 12 ga. stainless back up plate on the inside of bridge side's.
you probably want a mechanical fastener......
Old 11-18-2019, 03:42 PM
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PL is very similar to 5200 in that it is a polyurethane sealer/adhesive. We use PL (gray) concrete sealer as a substitute for very pricey 5200 in our boat shop.The PL we use comes in either self leveling or no sag.The no sag is thicker.The bond depends on what material you are bonding to,but 2 pieces of wood stuck together with cured PL will have to be ruined to get it apart,the bond will be stronger than the wood.PL is about $4.50 a tube and 5200 is about $27 a tube.
Old 11-18-2019, 10:14 PM
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Ok Creekwood, I am thru bolting the whole assembly, thus the inside 12 ga backing plate. I know from experience, its true, not much will adhere to the UHMW Poly, but they were fab'd to replace the teak fill's that were rotting. Not to be technical but my understanding is this product is a polyether not a polyurethane. So still hoping to hear, it IS NOT as permanent as 5200??
Old 11-18-2019, 11:24 PM
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Absolutely not as permanent as 5200.
Old 11-18-2019, 11:28 PM
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just use 5200. it comes off easily enough (on aluminum boats).
Old 11-19-2019, 03:07 AM
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Stick with 5200, then you know what your dealing with
Old 11-19-2019, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Gullpt View Post
Stick with 5200, then you know what your dealing with
This^^^. For metal to FRP, there is simply not anything better.

Adhesive plus mechanical fastener is always best on anything that is subject to vibration/movement.

Unless you are bonding two pieces of plywood together or using it on delicate parts, 5200 is not hard to remove. A heat gun, a razor blade, a little patience, and it is no problem. In applications with metal on one side, it will come right off.

For your standoff, the polyethelene will have mold release in it and it may seal, but nothing is going to stick. I'd glass over a piece of 1/2" nidacore instead.

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