Survey Protocol
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: SC/NC
Posts: 8

I just found a potential contender that meets my needs. I've never had to get a survey done as the first boat was purchased by a very close family friend cheap and the second was brand new. What is the proper protocol/etiquette for having a survey done? Should I, the buyer, pay for it completely/deduct from sale price? Or do I request that the seller split the cost? Does the seller get the results of the survey to share, most importantly if I decide not to purchase from him?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,142

You get the survey after price and contact done and deposit paid, with sale pending on a good survey and sea trial. Contract would state that a failed survey or sea trial that you get your deposit back. I’m pretty sure you pay for the survey, it’s for your benefit not the seller.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: SC/NC
Posts: 8

You get the survey after price and contact done and deposit paid, with sale pending on a good survey and sea trial. Contract would state that a failed survey or sea trial that you get your deposit back. I’m pretty sure you pay for the survey, it’s for your benefit not the seller.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Point Pleasant NJ
Posts: 274

You pay for the surveyor and his findings report are exclusive to you. Who you share that with it is up to you. A surveyor shouldn't share any report with anyone other than the person (you) who payed for it. It has nothing to do with the sale price, it's doing your due diligence as protection on your pending purchase. I'm pretty certain that it's possible to get the hrs off that motor, you need to have the computer to plug into it. Some surveyors have the ability to get that motor info and some don't offer that as a option to do. Make sure whoever you get to inspect the boat is NAMS/SAMS certfied.
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: SC/NC
Posts: 8

You pay for the surveyor and his findings report are exclusive to you. Who you share that with it is up to you. A surveyor shouldn't share any report with anyone other than the person (you) who payed for it. It has nothing to do with the sale price, it's doing your due diligence as protection on your pending purchase. I'm pretty certain that it's possible to get the hrs off that motor, you need to have the computer to plug into it. Some surveyors have the ability to get that motor info and some don't offer that as a option to do. Make sure whoever you get to inspect the boat is NAMS/SAMS certfied.
It's a nice little CC that I'd like to introduce my son to the world of fishing on, provided I'm not over paying for it.
#10
Admirals Club 

Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Long Island Sound, NY
Posts: 2,363

Thanks! That's essentially what I was getting at. No problem paying for it as long as it's for me, but no complaints if it were split and the seller could continue to use it as he pleases.
Now that's some verbal GOLD right there! I guess that's a big bargaining chip on my end. I'm finding it hard to get a good idea on worth between the motor, hull, and of course depreciation/hours. If you do a search, they (the motors) are selling for around $6k which is average retail...the last thing I want to do is over pay. Especially if the seller isn't willing to come down based on your valuation or anything close to that. NADA puts the hull base price around $10k, with motor around $1700, with trailer no more than $14k total. When I plug in just the motor itself, $6k. You're saying it's basically a crap motor even with the repair done?
It's a nice little CC that I'd like to introduce my son to the world of fishing on, provided I'm not over paying for it.
Now that's some verbal GOLD right there! I guess that's a big bargaining chip on my end. I'm finding it hard to get a good idea on worth between the motor, hull, and of course depreciation/hours. If you do a search, they (the motors) are selling for around $6k which is average retail...the last thing I want to do is over pay. Especially if the seller isn't willing to come down based on your valuation or anything close to that. NADA puts the hull base price around $10k, with motor around $1700, with trailer no more than $14k total. When I plug in just the motor itself, $6k. You're saying it's basically a crap motor even with the repair done?
It's a nice little CC that I'd like to introduce my son to the world of fishing on, provided I'm not over paying for it.
#11
Admirals Club 

Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Palm Beach County
Posts: 10,263

Now that's some verbal GOLD right there! I guess that's a big bargaining chip on my end. I'm finding it hard to get a good idea on worth between the motor, hull, and of course depreciation/hours. If you do a search, they (the motors) are selling for around $6k which is average retail...the last thing I want to do is over pay. Especially if the seller isn't willing to come down based on your valuation or anything close to that. NADA puts the hull base price around $10k, with motor around $1700, with trailer no more than $14k total. When I plug in just the motor itself, $6k. You're saying it's basically a crap motor even with the repair done?
It's a nice little CC that I'd like to introduce my son to the world of fishing on, provided I'm not over paying for it.[/QUOTE]
6k with the repair but I dont believe that number. You wont be able to sell that motor so youre going to have to run it til it blows or take a hit. The diy kit to replace it is like $1300. However youre messing around with bolts on a motor that is 17 years old. I was searching very hard 3 years ago for my current boat. The best way I can tell you to come up with a number is break down the components (looks like you were already doing that).
I like the formula, trailer+hull +power+electronics+misc=price
People will list a boat for 20k because its a nice round number. Using the above you can break that down for them and get a price you want.
Electronics over 8 years arent worth anything.
Trailers with old axels are worth 1-2k.
Hulls can be worth a lot because they hold up.
power can be tricky, but always look to what you can buy new. A new zuke 200 is 14k. so dont tell me a motor that has a major known issue is worth almost 50% of that.
It's a nice little CC that I'd like to introduce my son to the world of fishing on, provided I'm not over paying for it.[/QUOTE]
6k with the repair but I dont believe that number. You wont be able to sell that motor so youre going to have to run it til it blows or take a hit. The diy kit to replace it is like $1300. However youre messing around with bolts on a motor that is 17 years old. I was searching very hard 3 years ago for my current boat. The best way I can tell you to come up with a number is break down the components (looks like you were already doing that).
I like the formula, trailer+hull +power+electronics+misc=price
People will list a boat for 20k because its a nice round number. Using the above you can break that down for them and get a price you want.
Electronics over 8 years arent worth anything.
Trailers with old axels are worth 1-2k.
Hulls can be worth a lot because they hold up.
power can be tricky, but always look to what you can buy new. A new zuke 200 is 14k. so dont tell me a motor that has a major known issue is worth almost 50% of that.
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: SC/NC
Posts: 8

- Hull, Deck & Superstructure
- AC and DC Electrical
- Fuel System
- Steering Gear
- Plumbing & Marine Pumps
- Deck Level Rigging & Sails
- Aloft Rigging
- Drivetrain & Running Gear
- Haul-Out & Bottom Inspection
- Performance Sea Trials
- Engine Compression
- USCG & Safety Gear
- Thermal Imaging
#15
Admirals Club 

Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Long Island Sound, NY
Posts: 2,363

This is what my local marine services will provide at $20 - 25 per foot + $75 for compression testing. Includes a performance sea trial. Anything additional you recommend I request?
- Hull, Deck & Superstructure
- AC and DC Electrical
- Fuel System
- Steering Gear
- Plumbing & Marine Pumps
- Deck Level Rigging & Sails
- Aloft Rigging
- Drivetrain & Running Gear
- Haul-Out & Bottom Inspection
- Performance Sea Trials
- Engine Compression
- USCG & Safety Gear
- Thermal Imaging
#16
Admirals Club 

Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 166

Don't take your surveyors word for it. It's good to have a "pro" look it over, but make sure you stick your head in every nook and cranny as well. The bigger the boat the more important this is.
My first big (40ft+) boat I had a survey done by one of the most reputable surveyors in North Florida. Everyone I've ever spoken to swears by him. He did a good job and caught a lot of things. But he missed some things too, things I caught after poking around the boat for an hour.
A survey is peace of mind, especially if you aren't an experienced boat guy. I don't mean experienced running boats, I mean experienced maintaining boats. But there's no such thing as "passing" a survey. It's simply an evaluation of the boat as it sits, not a pass/fail test for value or future reliability.
My first big (40ft+) boat I had a survey done by one of the most reputable surveyors in North Florida. Everyone I've ever spoken to swears by him. He did a good job and caught a lot of things. But he missed some things too, things I caught after poking around the boat for an hour.
A survey is peace of mind, especially if you aren't an experienced boat guy. I don't mean experienced running boats, I mean experienced maintaining boats. But there's no such thing as "passing" a survey. It's simply an evaluation of the boat as it sits, not a pass/fail test for value or future reliability.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 7,365

Have you looked over the boat first yourself - well worth it in case there are things that are very obvious deal breakers such as soft cockpit sole, cracked or flexible transom etc - there are some 'run don't walk' problems that you could see for yourself before going to the expense of a survey.
#18

Buyer pays for survey . The “ pending survey “ part of the paying contract could be speculative. If there are issues, it is up to you to decide if you want to renegotiate, move on , or pay. If there are no issues [ which is very rare ] you buy the boat or seller may argue about returning your deposit. You can’t just decide you don’t want it if everything is perfect. Should the survey come back with minor issues but you and seller can’t come to terms, the seller may offer to buy your survey at a discounted price. It could be good for him to have for the next buyer. He may address any know issues and advertise as such.
This is just the cost of buying a boat if you are not competent to do your own survey.
I have used surveyors on a few boats long ago. I don’t any more. For my last 4 boats , I hired the certified mechanic that is actually going to work on the engine and the yard that will haul and maintain the hull. These are the people that will give you better answers. Having someone spend 6 hours writing down serial #’s and telling me I need a second hose clamp is not the information i am looking for.
This is just the cost of buying a boat if you are not competent to do your own survey.
I have used surveyors on a few boats long ago. I don’t any more. For my last 4 boats , I hired the certified mechanic that is actually going to work on the engine and the yard that will haul and maintain the hull. These are the people that will give you better answers. Having someone spend 6 hours writing down serial #’s and telling me I need a second hose clamp is not the information i am looking for.
#19
Admirals Club 

Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Richmond VA
Posts: 648

There's one more factor. If you are financing the boat your bank may require a survey. Your insurance company will almost certainly require a survey. If that's the case have that survey done before you buy, even if you think you are qualified to inspect the boat. You don't want to be in the position of owning the boat, then getting a survey for insurance, and finding you have to correct a bunch of problems to get insurance.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,142

I haven’t ever needed a survey for insurance with my boat, 2002 Cape Horn Bay 22, I think it depends on year, size and value. I believe his boat will be somewhat similar being it has a single 225 from 2005. Not saying he shouldn’t get one but insurance or loan company probably don’t need one for this boat.