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suzuki DF140 Rectifier/battery charge coil wiring problem

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suzuki DF140 Rectifier/battery charge coil wiring problem

Old 09-21-2019, 05:09 PM
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Default suzuki DF140 Rectifier/battery charge coil wiring problem

Ok....so....I seem to have shorted something out and now am in a place where I want to clean everything up and make sure I don't have any remaining problems before replacing what seems to be some expensive parts. I am attaching a pic of a wire harness that has seen better days. By the research I have done I can't seem to find the harness or replacement wiring without replacing the whole coil and rectifier. And I am prepared to do this if needed, but would still like a way to fix this and test it to make sure I'm not going to blow up new parts. Also is there a way to test the rectifier on a bench before replacing it?

Thanks.....i'm sure there will be some laughs at this (deservedly so), but any help is appreciated.



Old 09-21-2019, 05:25 PM
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Not a short. Typical over temperature damage. Usually due to excessive resistance at the connection point.

Try a Suzuki motorcycle dealer to see if they have just the connectors and terminals. If not, try Easter Beaver. https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/E...onnectors.html

Some service manuals provide test specifications for the rectifier/regulator.

Usually the R/R is tested for DC output voltage. If low, test the stator that provides an input to the R/R. If the input is low, the stator coil is kaput. If the stator coil input is within specs but the R/R output is low it usually means the R/R is defective.
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Old 09-21-2019, 05:27 PM
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I have bought several different kinds of connectors from these guys in Japan, always very prompt service, great wuality products, and easy to deal with.

Here is a link to their connectors page, have a look, good chance you will find what ypu need

https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/E...onnectors.html

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Old 09-21-2019, 05:29 PM
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Got you Moonlighter. Usually some one gets me.
Old 09-21-2019, 06:09 PM
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Thanks a bunch fellas. Anyone happen to know what that connector type is or the size of the wire so I can size a replacement? Looks like it was 16 gauge wire to me but didn't size while I was at the boat today.

Thanks a ton, very happy to hear I may not have to replace everything.

Cheer boys,
Mike
Old 09-21-2019, 07:06 PM
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I would contact Eastern Beaver with a couple of good photos of those connectors, and the corresponding terminals, and they can match them up for you.

Or cut the connectors and take them to a motor cycle shop and see what they say.

Actually, any three pin connector should do. Rated for nominally 40 amps.

With the new connectors I would add a dab of corrosion prevention compound to help prevent this type of problem from happening again.

How old is the motor if I may ask?

Last edited by alloyboy; 09-21-2019 at 10:27 PM.
Old 09-21-2019, 08:19 PM
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I believe it's a 2004 or 2005 Alloyboy, I bought the boat used last year and looked up the serial numbers then to confirm but I can't remember 100%. I know it's older and needs some TLC. I have been using electronics cleaner and spray on electronics corrosion preventative as I am doing different jobs on the boat. I went with the aerosol not the grease style as I was coating the connectors on my depth finder at the time. Would the grease style be better for connectors like this?
Old 09-21-2019, 08:50 PM
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I am the bearer of good news. I have a 2003 DF115 and the same thing happened. Itís just age and overheating caused by a loose or corroded connection that probably caused that.

To replace both the rectified and the charging coil ainít going to be cheap think about $600-800 for both new. I simply cut the plug out and crimped in three of the yellow sized straight connectors (with the heat shrink) and was done with it.

You're up for about $5.00 tops.

I did this about 3 years back and havenít had an issues with it since. The only word of caution is that if I recall I didnít have a lot of wire to work with so if you go this route, try to preserve as much of the wire as you when you chop it out. If itís just the one terminal thatís overheated and the other two look good, maybe leave them be and just bypass the bad one.

You can get second hand parts pretty cheap if you just want to keep the integrity of it all.

You are probably starting to get some corrosion happening like I am. Something to look out for while your in that area is corrosion on the Earths - I think below and behind the ECM box, maybe behind that entire electrical box, itís a bit hidden - was having all sorts of weird issues and I found the wiring to the block all badly corroded. Fixed that and it was like a new engine - just something to take a look at while your there.

I can take a photo of what I did to that connector if it might help ya


Shan

Last edited by shansgonefishin; 09-22-2019 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 09-21-2019, 09:04 PM
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Shan, you are a saint. I always like a bit of good news. A photo of what you did would be great. I think I can sort it from your description but photos are always helpful.

Thanks a ton,
Mike
Old 09-21-2019, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by HughJazz View Post
Shan, you are a saint. I always like a bit of good news. A photo of what you did would be great. I think I can sort it from your description but photos are always helpful.

Thanks a ton,
Mike
Hey Mike,

Sure no problem, wonít be until later in the morning but Iíll send it through. Looking at your photo.. mine did exactly the same, I think it was even the same wire. Itís no big thing.
Old 09-22-2019, 08:41 AM
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Here goes Mike (she could do with a clean - please ignore )


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Old 09-22-2019, 10:15 AM
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This is brilliant news Shan. This is what I was thinking and have ordered a kit with numerous crimp connector options. Thanks for the confirmation. I'll update next weekend when I can get back to the boat as to the success. Really hoping for a few more good fishing days this season so crossing fingers here.

thanks all,
Mike
Old 09-22-2019, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by HughJazz View Post
This is brilliant news Shan. This is what I was thinking and have ordered a kit with numerous crimp connector options. Thanks for the confirmation. I'll update next weekend when I can get back to the boat as to the success. Really hoping for a few more good fishing days this season so crossing fingers here.

thanks all,
Mike
You will be laughing Mike, good luck on them fish
Old 09-29-2019, 08:52 AM
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Ok, so the repair went well, looks good and the wires were just long enough to make the repair with butt splices that have heat shrink. Problems is the engine still wont start. So, no alarms no codes, engine turns over really well like it wants to start but no pop. With the way this wiring connector looked does anyone have any suggestions other than a zuke mechanic (which is my next step)? Problem for me is the boat is heavy and the mechanic is not convenient so it's more of a last ditch due to logistics than money.

Thanks all,
Mike
Old 09-29-2019, 10:21 AM
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Cranking is good, now to go with that you need fuel pressure,
spark, and open injectors, at the right time.

Is there fuel in the VST -
does the high pressure pump run at key on -
is the rail pressurized?
Those are things to check

Do the plugs fire while you are cranking?
Do you get any evidence of ignition with a shot of starting spray?

Originally Posted by HughJazz View Post
With the way this wiring connector looked does anyone have any suggestions
Is there a story behind that burnt connector ? like the engine last ran before that occurred ?
You may not be getting power to the ECM, or the coils, injectors, fuel pump
Could be simply a blown fuse, or a burnt wire
(hopefully not a dead ECM)

not sure, on that engine, if there is a neutral safety switch which will let it crank but not run...
Old 09-29-2019, 01:03 PM
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Donít you just love boats

Could be a number of things.

Questions:

1.) Did it just stop working or was it playing up?
2.) All good with the kill switch? This will still allow it to crank just no ignition.
3.) Did it stop working and you thought that was the probable issue? It may have still provided voltage even though it didnít look too crash hot and distracted you from the real problem.

Last edited by shansgonefishin; 09-29-2019 at 01:22 PM.
Old 09-29-2019, 07:01 PM
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Ok, Shan and Pratt, I'm going to try to sum up the back story here.

I was working on an issue where when the engine came down in RPM's from running up on plane to neutral it would stall out. This became worse over the season to the point where it was hard to start as well. I got a bunch of feedback on the IAC and throttle body. So I was cleaning those one day with good success. But to clean the throttle body on the machine it required the engine to be running. So at the end of that process, which worked wonders for the idle and the transition from WOT to neutral/idle I managed to do something where it won't start now. So at the end I plugged the oxygen sensor back in while the engine was running ( I know this is a no no.....wasn't thinking) and it stalled....has not started since.

To answer the above questions...
Is there fuel in the VST - I opened the drain on the fuel housing and fuel came out
does the high pressure pump run at key on - I'm not sure, I will have a closer listen next time I'm down to the boat
is the rail pressurized? I don't know how to test this so I'm not sure
Those are things to check

Do the plugs fire while you are cranking? I don't know, I have not taken one out, with how deep they sit i was not comfortable taking one out, but this may be a next step
Do you get any evidence of ignition with a shot of starting spray? have not used starting fluid yet, can try that next time as well

1.) Did it just stop working or was it playing up? was just an idle issue before I started monkey dicking with it
2.) All good with the kill switch? This will still allow it to crank just no ignition. not sure, but with all that lead up to this it did not seem a place to start. Also I have one kill switch and two engines, other engine starts fine so I assume it's not the problem
3.) Did it stop working and you thought that was the probable issue? It may have still provided voltage even though it didn’t look too crash hot and distracted you from the real problem. yes kind of, i'm really not sure the issue, this just seemed a likely candidate....turns out not.

So there we have it... in a nut shell, it's an older motor, i'm trying to get the most out of before having to change engines and doing what I can to keep costs down by doing as much work as I can. I'm good with electronics and mechanics but I'm by no means an engine mechanic. And to be honest I do like to fix as much on my boat as I can as I feel it allows me to be better when I'm out on longer trips to handle situations that may come up.

Again, thanks all for reading and sending any tips my way,
Mike
Old 09-29-2019, 08:49 PM
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You sound very much like me when it comes to working on the engines. Itís great to be familiar with them as best you can. My background is HVAC and it helps, but Iím by no means a mechanic!

Not much to go on there, Difficult to say whatís happening based on your explanation. I would backtrack over everything you did to see if something is amiss. Didnít lose a rag?

It doesnít sound like you were having any fuel related issues prior so personally I would be leaning towards the electrical side of things.

The plugs come out easy enough if you wanted to do that or just buy one and plug that in to test for a spark.

I doubt unplugging that sensor while running would be a big thing... but I am not 100%. I would think once the engine cycled power with it plugged back in that all would be in order.

If you have the service manual (highly recommend - best thing I did) they give you the ohms readings / testing procedures etc to test things. Sounds like you know your way around a multimeter and given that arcing is voltage related maybe start there.

On the the other hand, if you have twins (sounds like it) maybe move some parts across - especially if you find something out of spec from the manual.

Good luck

Last edited by shansgonefishin; 09-30-2019 at 06:32 AM.

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