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Need Help Totalboat Bilge paint fiasco

Old 09-06-2019, 05:22 PM
  #21  
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None of the single part oil base enamels are going to come close to finish quality, durability and hardness compared to a two pack catalyzed paint. Not saying you necessarily need this in a bilge, but peoples expectations have raised by all the high end finishes commonly used these days.

It does seem that all the old school oil base enamels now require the addition of a drier to get em to harden up.
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Old 09-06-2019, 05:24 PM
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It worked great for me - maybe a bad batch? Didn’t come on to rub salt in wound but mine cured in cold weather with a heater under the shrink wrap...
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Old 09-06-2019, 05:32 PM
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What would be considered a hardener for oil base enamel ?
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Old 09-06-2019, 06:29 PM
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It’s an epoxy based paint but I believe it’s a one part? For a bilge it’s fine!?
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Old 09-06-2019, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jdwaters View Post
What would be considered a hardener for oil base enamel ?
Several brands available.Works wonders.
Amazon Amazon
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Old 09-06-2019, 06:44 PM
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Lol, that guy claiming that those chemicals are banned is nuts! Talk about fake fear mongering. Ah that sure grinds my gears.

You have a few options (i’m a chemist, not a gel coat expert, that is boathaus). If the coating hasn’t dried, it means that either it is a bad batch, need mechanical, or chemical aids to dry. Assuming the latter, you can try to raise the temperature in the area, but you’re going to need ventilation for this. Alternatively, you can use a catalyst and coat it to see if itll dry up. I dont know this product so you’ll need to ask the company what is compatible. But honestly i think you need to raise the overall temperature.

For cleanup, only option is sanding, acetone and other stripping agents wont fully work. In theory you could use a chemical first and then after go at it with sanding.

Not that it matters ive always used interlux or fgci products.
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Old 09-06-2019, 07:31 PM
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I would use interlux perfection.(its a two part) I have used it numerous times on bilges and it works well and dries overnight . You have to prime first with one of interluxs primers. It is very stinky stuff so make sure wear a respirator.
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Old 09-06-2019, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TomFTM View Post
I would use interlux perfection.(its a two part) I have used it numerous times on bilges and it works well and dries overnight . You have to prime first with one of interluxs primers. It is very stinky stuff so make sure wear a respirator.
Oh boy does it smell
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Old 09-06-2019, 08:14 PM
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Whatever you do; use larger than smaller fans to keep the bilge fresh and blow the dust and/or fumes away.
VENTILATE POSITIVELY.
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Old 09-06-2019, 11:50 PM
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Latex gloves are way more resistant to acetone than nitrile. Not sure what type you’re using, but figured I’d share. I went through about 1000 nitrile gloves for my project before I tried latex. Way better for acetone...if you not allergic to latex that is.

The acetone won’t hurt your epoxy primer.

Sorry for your situation. That kind of thing is a real mess and very frustrating.

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Old 09-08-2019, 06:07 PM
  #31  
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OP here - I cut my vacation a day short to come home and work on the boat. I cut the deck panel which will cover the fishboxes as well
as the hole for the hatch frame which will allow access to the fishboxes.

I then spent about 4 hours trying to get rid of the crap Totalboat paint. I sacrificed 2 80 grit sandpaper pads hoping and praying that
7 full days of cure time would be enough time to let the paint cure, it was not. The outer 1/3 of the pad would load up with paint and
the heat generated would turn the remainder into a gummy mess.

I put on the 3m respirator mask, opened up a package of scotchbrite pads and went at it with acetone. I painted on the acetone then scrubbed
with the scotchbrite and it worked pretty good but would load up the scotchbrite pretty quickly rendering it useless. Paper towels didn't have enough grit to do anything so I didn't mess with too many of them.

Eventually I came to the conclusion to scrape it off and used a 1" wide chisel to scrape the crap totalboat paint off after the acetone softened
it up. so 4hrs in, the old motorwell is mostly clean and so is the battery box. I haven't tried the fishboxes which are 66" long and 48" wide.

I'm guessing I'm in for at least 8hrs more labor to do that, then have to sand and re-prep the whole area.
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Old 09-08-2019, 06:10 PM
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If anyone has any ideas how to do this faster / better I'm all ears
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Old 09-09-2019, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ktm_2000 View Post
If anyone has any ideas how to do this faster / better I'm all ears
razor blade was my best friend removing it. Followed by wiping and sanding somewhat.
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Old 09-09-2019, 06:59 AM
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I was afraid of that.......... I will be off to home depot over lunch to look at paint scraping tools. I think my only saving grace is that the fishboxes are large flat panels, scraping there should go faster.
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Old 09-09-2019, 07:13 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ktm_2000 View Post
If anyone has any ideas how to do this faster / better I'm all ears
Ive scraped off gel coat that didnt cure properly before, moisture or overpigmentation. I dont know any other way, sharp edged paint scraper, rolls of shop towels, gallon if acetone. Eventually you can sand. But yeah, at about $1 apiece, and lasting only 5-10 sec , sanding dont work ok on heavy stuff.

A less volatile solvent might work better for particular cases.

I pour acetone on, scrape back and forth in the puddle, wipe off before all evaporates. Repeat 50 x.
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Old 09-09-2019, 07:38 AM
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This stuff strips anything

Klean Strip | Aircraft® Paint Remover
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Old 09-09-2019, 08:12 AM
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Maybe the multi tool?
https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bos...00rs-142627-p/
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Old 09-09-2019, 08:45 AM
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on the aircraft stripper, I'm going to avoid that one as it might impact the underlying epoxy based repair work as well as fillers and primer.
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Old 09-09-2019, 08:55 AM
  #39  
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for what it's worth, I had similar issues with the Totalboat one part primer. In the end, it did end up curing well enough to sand without clogging the paper, but in a few instances we're talking well over a week after application.
I figured it was because I was applying it in the middle of summer in the Florida Keys, but I'm now convinced that it is the product and not the environment.
Applying the primer with no thinning agent was a recipe for disaster. It wasn't until I started thinning the stuff up to 40% that I would get a workable product and a somewhat acceptable cure rate.

It's disappointing because I really like Jamestown Distributors and everything else about the Totalboat product line. I've been using their Wet Edge one part paint with good success and I have no reason to change from that, but their primer is an exercise of frustration. Sounds like the bilge paint has the same characteristics.
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Old 09-09-2019, 09:23 AM
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Try a paint scraper with a carbide insert.

i can remove epoxy / polyester resin drips without disturbing adjacent areas, or use it to scrape entire surfaces. Round off the two corners of the carbide so they don't leave grooves.
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