Go Back  The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum > BOATING FORUMS > The Boating Forum
Reload this Page >

Disagreement over Windlass Instaltion

Notices
The Boating Forum

Disagreement over Windlass Instaltion

Old 07-26-2019, 11:55 AM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 1
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Disagreement over Windlass Instaltion

My boat partner and I have a disagreement over the replacement of a Windlass on our 46' Sailing Catamaran.

Currently, we have a Lewmar 12V H3G Windlass which is 1000 Watts and has performed well for years but it now seems to be on its last leg. The instruction for the Lewmar recommends #2 gauge wire based on 12V setup up with a total wire distance estimated at 70', we only have #4 gauge but it has worked fine, we also have a 50 amp breaker in line.

My boat partner and I agreed to buy a new Windlass (he had a connection that gave us a very nice discount on the new WIndlass) and we went with a more powerful Windlass even though we really didn't need it. At the moment we bought it, we really weren't thinking about the size of the battery wire. The new Windlass is a Quick Hector 12V HC3 1500 Watts and the WIndlass requires #0 gauge wire and a 100-watt breaker.

My partner told me that the new more powerful Windlass will work for us. My partner has no plans to change the battery wire size which is currently #4AWG to the recommend #0AWG or replace the 50 amp breaker with the recommended 100 amp breaker.

When I realized the wire size issue, I wanted to return the 1500 Watt windlass and replace it with a 1000 Watt Windlass just like the one we already have.

My partner is a member of this forum and he visits often for advice, could you please give him some advice (preferable technical) so that we can resolve this disagreement. Thanks!

Last edited by kabrisle; 07-26-2019 at 11:58 AM. Reason: misspelling
Old 07-26-2019, 11:57 AM
  #2  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Boynton Beach Islamorada(VRBO49422)
Posts: 3,144
Received 1,130 Likes on 591 Posts
Default

Tell him to quick acting like a cheap blowboater and get the right size wire......
Likes:
Ar15bang, arczr2, Lookinup76, OffshoreApparel.com, SalmonDaze, Vantaredoc, Walleye Guy and 2 others liked this post. (Show less...)
Old 07-26-2019, 12:00 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Americas Wang
Posts: 299
Received 117 Likes on 41 Posts
Default

Talk about passive aggressive...Shesh

nvm, your a blow boater and this is par for the course
Likes:
Old 07-26-2019, 12:01 PM
  #4  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Ohio (Lake Erie)
Posts: 2,726
Received 1,001 Likes on 541 Posts
Default

And quit stealing the toilet paper!
Likes:
drail, kennyboy, Lookinup76, niteatnicks, Smitty 45, Vantaredoc and 1 others liked this post. (Show less...)
Old 07-26-2019, 12:03 PM
  #5  
dev
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
dev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: St. Pete
Posts: 972
Received 1,112 Likes on 520 Posts
Default

If the wire is fused correctly, then you can technically leave it as-is from a safety perspective.
However, the new windlass will have a higher probability of blowing fuses/breakers, particularly if pulling up a "stuck" anchor, or any scenario that causes it to work closer to its max capacity rating. In those kinds of situations, I personally would not wanting to be dealing with breakers/fuses blowing and having to be reset while trying to haul anchor.
Old 07-26-2019, 12:15 PM
  #6  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
THT sponsor
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 532
Received 168 Likes on 87 Posts
Default

How about installing a dedicated 12V battery and a couple solenoids up near the windlass and using the existing wiring to operate it. You'd have to run another light pair to keep the battery charged, and a short (read that "cheap") length of the #0 wire from the solenoids to the windlass.

Oh yea, and stop stealing the soap too!
Likes:
Old 07-26-2019, 12:20 PM
  #7  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: South Florida
Posts: 9,618
Received 631 Likes on 362 Posts
Default

If you don't upgrade the wire size, you'll get significantly lower voltage at the windlass when it is under power. That will lead to the windlass underperforming and probably tripping the breaker frequently.

Don't return it. Just upgrade the wire. Is that that difficult?
Old 07-26-2019, 12:28 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 326
Received 193 Likes on 87 Posts
Default

Risk of fire is increased some... I'd suggest moving a dedicated battery closer like Tuna Guitar suggested.
Old 07-26-2019, 12:33 PM
  #9  
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 46
Received 9 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Replace the wire or return the windlass for a lower wattage (smaller recommended breaker) or go 24V.

If you do want more pull force, you may be able to find something with a slower chain speed to maintain the lower required power.
Old 07-26-2019, 12:43 PM
  #10  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 17,302
Received 2,776 Likes on 1,980 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by kabrisle View Post
My boat partner and I have a disagreement over the replacement of a Windlass on our 46' Sailing Catamaran.

Currently, we have a Lewmar 12V H3G Windlass which is 1000 Watts and has performed well for years but it now seems to be on its last leg. The instruction for the Lewmar recommends #2 gauge wire based on 12V setup up with a total wire distance estimated at 70', we only have #4 gauge but it has worked fine, we also have a 50 amp breaker in line.

My boat partner and I agreed to buy a new Windlass (he had a connection that gave us a very nice discount on the new WIndlass) and we went with a more powerful Windlass even though we really didn't need it. At the moment we bought it, we really weren't thinking about the size of the battery wire. The new Windlass is a Quick Hector 12V HC3 1500 Watts and the WIndlass requires #0 gauge wire and a 100-watt breaker.

My partner told me that the new more powerful Windlass will work for us. My partner has no plans to change the battery wire size which is currently #4AWG to the recommend #0AWG or replace the 50 amp breaker with the recommended 100 amp breaker.

When I realized the wire size issue, I wanted to return the 1500 Watt windlass and replace it with a 1000 Watt Windlass just like the one we already have.

My partner is a member of this forum and he visits often for advice, could you please give him some advice (preferable technical) so that we can resolve this disagreement. Thanks!
LOL

I guess this is one way to settle an argument!!

I'd be concerned about using inadequate size wiring, especially now that you know its inadequate, insurance could use this against you....
Old 07-26-2019, 12:47 PM
  #11  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
THT sponsor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lindenhurst, New York
Posts: 9,688
Received 1,901 Likes on 1,004 Posts
Default

tell him to pay for the wire and you will cover the cost of wind for rest of the season
Old 07-26-2019, 12:50 PM
  #12  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 6,711
Received 3,167 Likes on 1,814 Posts
Default

this seems like a pretty good way to end a partnership!
Likes:
Old 07-26-2019, 12:51 PM
  #13  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 6,711
Received 3,167 Likes on 1,814 Posts
Default

just mount the windlass closer to the batteries, then you dont have to move batteries or wires!
Old 07-26-2019, 12:54 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 64 Likes on 30 Posts
Default

Either do the extra Batt close to the windlass or leave it as is. As has been stated, the wire is protected by the fusing so you're not going to start a fire but you're going to pop fuses / breakers under heavier loading on the motor.
Old 07-26-2019, 12:59 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,107
Received 2,788 Likes on 1,169 Posts
Default

Let him hook it up the way he wants, it will keep tripping the breaker and you'll have no choice but to replace the wiring and circuit breaker.

Sure seams silly to not do it right the first time, but I don't follow sail boat logic real well.

Also, wow, I'd love to be in the room with your boat partner when he reads this.
Old 07-26-2019, 01:03 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Rayne, LA
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 85 Likes on 25 Posts
Default

Stay in deep water and you don't need the anchor, problem solved
Old 07-26-2019, 01:11 PM
  #17  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Seacoast NH
Posts: 6,759
Received 1,646 Likes on 750 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tuna Guitar View Post
How about installing a dedicated 12V battery and a couple solenoids up near the windlass and using the existing wiring to operate it. You'd have to run another light pair to keep the battery charged, and a short (read that "cheap") length of the #0 wire from the solenoids to the windlass.

Oh yea, and stop stealing the soap too!
This seems like the reasonable and correct solution. Tell your partner to stop being lazy & cheap.

This is why you can’t share boats.
Old 07-26-2019, 01:24 PM
  #18  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: S. Florida
Posts: 6,435
Received 1,801 Likes on 897 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Tuna Guitar View Post
How about installing a dedicated 12V battery and a couple solenoids up near the windlass and using the existing wiring to operate it. You'd have to run another light pair to keep the battery charged, and a short (read that "cheap") length of the #0 wire from the solenoids to the windlass.

Oh yea, and stop stealing the soap too!
No need to run any new wire if they do this. The existing heavy gauge run will work, and offer better protection to the system if the new battery is dead. They'd essentially be adding to the house capacity and the #2 run to the back would protect against large currents going either direction.
Old 07-26-2019, 02:29 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 188
Received 164 Likes on 84 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mystery View Post
LOL

I guess this is one way to settle an argument!!

I'd be concerned about using inadequate size wiring, especially now that you know its inadequate, insurance could use this against you....
Not being confrontational but may I ask, are you working in or affiliated with the boat insurance industry ?
Old 07-26-2019, 02:34 PM
  #20  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Central, FL
Posts: 13,079
Received 3,108 Likes on 1,460 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 47Fountain View Post
Not being confrontational but may I ask, are you working in or affiliated with the boat insurance industry ?
No he's not! He just knows that is been posted countless times already.............and he did a search!


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.