kabrisle

My boat partner and I have a disagreement over the replacement of a Windlass on our 46' Sailing Catamaran.

Currently, we have a Lewmar 12V H3G Windlass which is 1000 Watts and has performed well for years but it now seems to be on its last leg. The instruction for the Lewmar recommends #2 gauge wire based on 12V setup up with a total wire distance estimated at 70', we only have #4 gauge but it has worked fine, we also have a 50 amp breaker in line.

My boat partner and I agreed to buy a new Windlass (he had a connection that gave us a very nice discount on the new WIndlass) and we went with a more powerful Windlass even though we really didn't need it. At the moment we bought it, we really weren't thinking about the size of the battery wire. The new Windlass is a Quick Hector 12V HC3 1500 Watts and the WIndlass requires #0 gauge wire and a 100-watt breaker.

My partner told me that the new more powerful Windlass will work for us. My partner has no plans to change the battery wire size which is currently #4AWG to the recommend #0AWG or replace the 50 amp breaker with the recommended 100 amp breaker.

When I realized the wire size issue, I wanted to return the 1500 Watt windlass and replace it with a 1000 Watt Windlass just like the one we already have.

My partner is a member of this forum and he visits often for advice, could you please give him some advice (preferable technical) so that we can resolve this disagreement. Thanks!

kennyboy

Tell him to quick acting like a cheap blowboater and get the right size wire......

321floridafisher

Walleye Guy

And quit stealing the toilet paper!

dev

If the wire is fused correctly, then you can technically leave it as-is from a safety perspective.
However, the new windlass will have a higher probability of blowing fuses/breakers, particularly if pulling up a "stuck" anchor, or any scenario that causes it to work closer to its max capacity rating. In those kinds of situations, I personally would not wanting to be dealing with breakers/fuses blowing and having to be reset while trying to haul anchor.

Tuna Guitar

How about installing a dedicated 12V battery and a couple solenoids up near the windlass and using the existing wiring to operate it. You'd have to run another light pair to keep the battery charged, and a short (read that "cheap") length of the #0 wire from the solenoids to the windlass.

Oh yea, and stop stealing the soap too!

Flot

If you don't upgrade the wire size, you'll get significantly lower voltage at the windlass when it is under power. That will lead to the windlass underperforming and probably tripping the breaker frequently.

Don't return it. Just upgrade the wire. Is that that difficult?

Smitty_81

Risk of fire is increased some... I'd suggest moving a dedicated battery closer like Tuna Guitar suggested.

03g35vt

mystery

LOL

I guess this is one way to settle an argument!!

I'd be concerned about using inadequate size wiring, especially now that you know its inadequate, insurance could use this against you....

Raybo Marine NY

tell him to pay for the wire and you will cover the cost of wind for rest of the season

Rolandt03

this seems like a pretty good way to end a partnership!

Rolandt03

just mount the windlass closer to the batteries, then you dont have to move batteries or wires!

jcbrown630

Either do the extra Batt close to the windlass or leave it as is. As has been stated, the wire is protected by the fusing so you're not going to start a fire but you're going to pop fuses / breakers under heavier loading on the motor.

Lookinup76

Let him hook it up the way he wants, it will keep tripping the breaker and you'll have no choice but to replace the wiring and circuit breaker.

Sure seams silly to not do it right the first time, but I don't follow sail boat logic real well.

Also, wow, I'd love to be in the room with your boat partner when he reads this.

GotemBoat

Stay in deep water and you don't need the anchor, problem solved

Boat Hound

Texas 17

No need to run any new wire if they do this. The existing heavy gauge run will work, and offer better protection to the system if the new battery is dead. They'd essentially be adding to the house capacity and the #2 run to the back would protect against large currents going either direction.

47Fountain

Not being confrontational but may I ask, are you working in or affiliated with the boat insurance industry ?

Jus Teasin

No he's not! He just knows that is been posted countless times already.............and he did a search!