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What's up with Evinrude (BRP)?

Old 06-16-2019, 01:52 AM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by Jumpsummo View Post
A small diesel electric would be sellable today. Not sure why nobody makes it. Electric drive for simple and powerful. Batterues for that boost needed to plane. Enough diesel to maintain the plane and charge batteries when running slow.

Twins would be best. Stear with a joystick. No need for any steering components at all. Built in spot lock and easy handling at the dock.
waste of energy, better to have the small diesel driving the boat slow, you cant make more power than you use. Can't see how to make joystick steering without components.
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Old 06-16-2019, 03:45 AM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by Classic25 View Post
jeep.
Not to pick nits, but I believe that "Jeep" has never been a standalone "company," it has only been a brand, and has had several owners. Started out as a Willys product, then became an AMC product, which became a Chrysler product, which then became a Daimler Chrysler product, whichnthen became Chrysler again, and now its part of FCA after some more ownership changes....
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Old 06-16-2019, 03:55 AM
  #223  
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There is no circulation of the foot oil to the reservoir. You might see some discoloration if the fluid heats up enough to cause some to exchange but that not the most important feature.

Should you get a seal leak the res gives a reserve of fluid so there's time and indication something is up. Secondly since the foot cavity is completely filled there's no vacancy for water to get in vs any air space and a couple feet of head pressure so it's more likely oil gets out than water gets in.

Mercuruiser sells something similar.

If Evinrude includes an alarm for low level even better. Save's burning up a foot and a chance to add fluid to limp in on a bad seal.
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Old 06-16-2019, 05:21 AM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by Clinker View Post
Why? when you can check it without dropping the oil out. I used to change the LU oil in my Etec just so I could check it hadn't gone milky - the oil would come out like brand new every time - if I'd had the facility like the G2 has, I wouldn't have done it.
Why drop the lower unit before 5 years? So I can rest easy that the drive shaft will not freeze to the powerhead. It has nothing t do with looking for milky oil. We can all check LU oil in any lower unit without dropping it. I would never let my G2 sit in SW for five years without dropping my lower unit but that's just me and the way I have always done it...4 stroke or 2 stroke. And btw...I have always owned 2 strokes until 2 years ago.
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Old 06-16-2019, 05:30 AM
  #225  
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Did you ever get a hold of the charter guy in the keys who had 3,000+ on his G2's?
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Old 06-16-2019, 05:39 AM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by joediaz View Post
I hear you. As I previously said, I replaced the impellers and changed lower unit lube after 2 years because I chose to, not because I had to in order to maintain the warranty, which is what Yamaha requires. And I learned the impellers were not worn out. There is a big difference between wanting to and having to. And my Yamaha plugs were ready for replacement after 100 hours or so. My dealer told me the G2 plugs he has removed after 300 hours look good.
Yamaha doesn't require impeller change to maintain warranty. They just ask you to look inspect it...which again..I would do in a G2 also. Same with plugs. Also...I don't know about your plugs being ready for replacement after 100 hrs in your 4 stroke but again...logically...there is no justification that G2 plugs will last 5 times longer than a comparable 4 stroke plug.
Again....my point is IF you use the exact same logic that is applied when deciding to check/change plugs, impellers, lower units, fuel filters, etc... then the only maintenance cost you will save with a G2 is oil change. BRP didn't engineer any super duper space age material that suddenly make their parts special "special". The "5 year" claim by G2 is a selling point..... and a good one because they no that ANY outboards plugs. impeller, foot oil will last 500 hrs. 99% of the time. I just know that I would at least drop my LU before 5 years to give me peace of mind.
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Old 06-16-2019, 05:43 AM
  #227  
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This dredge was working the north end of Tigertail beach on Marco Island. I asked the one crew guy how the motors were working out. He said good. He said they have a couple thousand hours on them.
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Old 06-16-2019, 06:26 AM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by Classic25 View Post

This dredge was working the north end of Tigertail beach on Marco Island. I asked the one crew guy how the motors were working out. He said good. He said they have a couple thousand hours on them.
Anticipating great pleasure this season when blowing by Zukes and Yammys with my big block 200 HO.
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Old 06-16-2019, 06:49 AM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by 6104696 View Post
Not to pick nits, but I believe that "Jeep" has never been a standalone "company," it has only been a brand, and has had several owners. Started out as a Willys product, then became an AMC product, which became a Chrysler product, which then became a Daimler Chrysler product, whichnthen became Chrysler again, and now its part of FCA after some more ownership changes....
correct and the quality has also improved substantially over the years. Not as good as the Japanese, but good enough that I keep buying them.
I have one of each, one pure Chrysler era, one Daimler Chrysler era and one Fiat Chrysler era.
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Old 06-16-2019, 06:58 AM
  #230  
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Originally Posted by homeby51 View Post
Why drop the lower unit before 5 years? So I can rest easy that the drive shaft will not freeze to the powerhead. It has nothing t do with looking for milky oil. We can all check LU oil in any lower unit without dropping it. I would never let my G2 sit in SW for five years without dropping my lower unit but that's just me and the way I have always done it...4 stroke or 2 stroke. And btw...I have always owned 2 strokes until 2 years ago.
My G1 (which was used and moored in salt water) only had the LU dropped every third year and there was never any hint of it sticking, so five years is not much of a stretch from that, but of course there’s no harm in dropping it every year just the same as some people change the oil in their car every 5000 miles instead of the 12 or 15000 miles that the manufacturer specifies.
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Old 06-16-2019, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by joediaz View Post
Sorry, I don't know what you're referring to by checking for oil discoloration. The oil is mixed by the computer into the fuel. The oil in the tank is always fresh. Can you please explain?
Statler was referring to the LU oil not the oil for the powerhead (which is not mixed with the fuel).
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Old 06-16-2019, 07:19 AM
  #232  
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Originally Posted by Clinker View Post

My G1 (which was used and moored in salt water) only had the LU dropped every third year and there was never any hint of it sticking, so five years is not much of a stretch from that, but of course there’s no harm in dropping it every year just the same as some people change the oil in their car every 5000 miles instead of the 12 or 15000 miles that the manufacturer specifies.
BRP has a 5 years corrosion warranty. Industry leading. Yamaha has none. I seem to remember a thread on here where someone posted pictures of bolts BRP used that had silicone grommets or bushings on them to limit water intrusion.
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Old 06-16-2019, 07:27 AM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by Classic25 View Post
BRP has a 5 years corrosion warranty. Industry leading. Yamaha has none. I seem to remember a thread on here where someone posted pictures of bolts BRP used that had silicone grommets or bushings on them to limit water intrusion.
I don't know what the deal is.
I grew up in the islands in the 60's-70''s.
We had Evinrude's.
Boats NEVER hauled, only freshwater they saw was rain. Changed impeller when the engine overheated. That could have been 3-5 years, Never dropped the lowers till then, props stuck on shafts were common.
Stuff rusted. Thermostats corroded, we just took them out.
Setting points was maintence.
I don't ever recall a stuck driveshaft.
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Old 06-16-2019, 10:39 AM
  #234  
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Originally Posted by Classic25 View Post
Did you ever get a hold of the charter guy in the keys who had 3,000+ on his G2's?
*****EDIT***
I meant to say HE never followed up. I reached out but never heard back.

Last edited by homeby51; 06-17-2019 at 06:33 AM.
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Old 06-16-2019, 02:12 PM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by Statler View Post
With the G2 series of motors under the cowling there is a gearbox oil reservoir that is connected to the gearbox.

part of the connection is a tub that allows the oil level to be checked and checked for discolouration.

see the photo

the tube is above the finger and the reservoir behind the finger
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:18 AM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by noelm View Post

waste of energy, better to have the small diesel driving the boat slow, you cant make more power than you use. Can't see how to make joystick steering without components.
What waste of energy? It's a direct drive off the electric motors. It's what they run trains with where energy and efficiency are required. The point is to have enough diesel power to run once on plane. The Batteries provide quiet low speed operation and a boost when needing to change speed or get on plane. Diesel can either be located separate for pure diesel electric or in line with a clutch for direct connection to drive.

Even if you can't see it, the joystick is the most simple part when you go to electric. A kids toy with track drives has a similar controller. Forward and reverse to each motor, left and right bias for turns. A small PLC could do it all. Twist the joystick allowed at slow speeds where in engine is opposite the other. The controller feeds the engines the amount of desired power each. The diesel is load sensitive so when needed it increases power. It literally thinks it's a battery charger and could incorporate the auto off when no power is needed.
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:03 AM
  #237  
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In a locomotive, weight is not that much of concern. In a boat, consider the space required plus the weight and cost of a heavy diesel engine, a high-capacity generator, substantial copper cables, and a bank of batteries. In addition don't forget to consider what an electric motor costs and weighs and the size of it.
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Old 06-17-2019, 03:03 PM
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While this all belongs in another thread the weight is not an issue with modern turbo diesels the electrics take place of transmissions. The batteries come in packages like for a small truck and weigh something but getting better all the time.

The argument against anything new is the same THT Brain trust that cannot accept a modern 2 stroke that outruns and is more economical to buy and operate but that is lost on fools stuck in the last century.

I suspect when this comes out it will have Evinrude on the name because nobody else thinks outside the Yamaha box.
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Old 06-17-2019, 03:09 PM
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It's not saying we're against it, but at this time, the space, the weight, and the cost makes diesel-electric battery propulsion impractical for recreational boats. It works great in cruise ships and other commercial applications.
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Old 06-17-2019, 03:50 PM
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Etec 2 smoke thread morphed into diesel/electric locomotives. I thought winter was over.
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