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Is there a bilge pump switch that will last more than 1 season???

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Is there a bilge pump switch that will last more than 1 season???

Old 06-10-2019, 07:53 PM
  #21  
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Watch this video:
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:02 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by john0767 View Post
If you're running two Sr. switch's would you use one or two high water alarms?
I guess you can wire two to the same alarm, but you wont know which compartment is flooding.
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Old 06-11-2019, 02:41 AM
  #23  
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Ive read the all the comments posted, but nobody has told you what the actual problem is: It is NOT your float switch, it is NOT your pump. Your wiring is faulty to the pumps/ float switches.
When someone gets in your boat and uses inline but connectors to put new float switches and pumps in, possibly replace a length of wiring over the years, it sets the circuit up for failures. It could have been mechanics in there before you even took possession of the boat.

There is either corrosion at your butt connectors somewhere along your wiring route or excessive resistance in your circuit. This decreases the voltage to your pumps and switches. The pumps then have to run on less voltage making them work harder, burning them up.

I would almost guarantee you if you ran all NEW wiring ( w/ no butt connectors) from your helm bilge switch, batteries, to the pumps/ float switch, you would have trouble free bilge pumps for years. I truly believe you need to rewire your circuit completely.
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:54 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by anthem-00 View Post
x3 on ultra switches. have some that are 20 years old on the boat and still are working perfectly..
+100 - Bullet proof. I don't know how the poor guy makes any money....
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Old 06-11-2019, 04:35 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by sydngoose View Post
Ive read the all the comments posted, but nobody has told you what the actual problem is: It is NOT your float switch, it is NOT your pump. Your wiring is faulty to the pumps/ float switches.
When someone gets in your boat and uses inline but connectors to put new float switches and pumps in, possibly replace a length of wiring over the years, it sets the circuit up for failures. It could have been mechanics in there before you even took possession of the boat...
Interesting theory.

In my case that has never been the issue.

The wiring (including any butt connectors) has been properly tested and discounted as problematic. Same for the switch being measured as failed.
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Old 06-11-2019, 04:41 AM
  #26  
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After being a die hard Rule switch believer for decades I had one fail. .... Asked my brother (40 yr marine mechanic), and he didn’t even hesitate .... “Ultra Switch”. I’m putting one in my boat now.
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Old 06-11-2019, 05:13 AM
  #27  
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Same story here recommending the Ultra. After 4 years of having 2 different brands of float switches keep sticking in the "on" position, I put in an Ultra Mini. No problems for the past 6 years.
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Old 06-11-2019, 05:23 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by sydngoose View Post
Ive read the all the comments posted, but nobody has told you what the actual problem is: It is NOT your float switch, it is NOT your pump. Your wiring is faulty to the pumps/ float switches.
When someone gets in your boat and uses inline but connectors to put new float switches and pumps in, possibly replace a length of wiring over the years, it sets the circuit up for failures. It could have been mechanics in there before you even took possession of the boat.

There is either corrosion at your butt connectors somewhere along your wiring route or excessive resistance in your circuit. This decreases the voltage to your pumps and switches. The pumps then have to run on less voltage making them work harder, burning them up.

I would almost guarantee you if you ran all NEW wiring ( w/ no butt connectors) from your helm bilge switch, batteries, to the pumps/ float switch, you would have trouble free bilge pumps for years. I truly believe you need to rewire your circuit completely.
Interesting point and anyone having repeated troubles with the bilge pump should check the voltage to the pump/switch to make sure its close to battery voltage with the engine off and charging voltage with the engine running. That can certainly be true of starters (Low voltage = higher amperage draw = premature failure).
Also if there is crud in the bilge clogging it you can have premature failures. I was amazed how long my first Sure Bail lasted...2002--2013.....and the Rule pump...was in the boat when I bought it....in 2002....
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Old 06-11-2019, 05:52 AM
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Sounds like these ultra switches are the cats pajamas. You may just have gotten unlucky with the Rules that you have had though. Of my most recent pair, one died after four years. The other is still going strong at 5. So, let’s say it makes it to 6. That is an average of a 5 year life span for a $30 part.
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Old 06-11-2019, 08:18 AM
  #30  
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Going on 12 years with my Ultra and she works as good today as when new!
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Old 06-11-2019, 09:33 AM
  #31  
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I spoke to the owner of Ultra switches. I had a few questions and he took the time to answer them all.

I was confused what model to get, seems if you have a short bilge run like most center consoles, the mini is the correct model.

Also you can still hook up an alarm to either model.
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Old 06-11-2019, 09:48 AM
  #32  
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I have 3 rule 800s with float switches. I carry spares, two pumps two floats. The back one lasts 1 to 3 years. It's the heaviest use.
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:43 AM
  #33  
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FYI Aqualarm makes one very similar to Ultra's.
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:46 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Polapea View Post
Thought it was just me. Previous boat had switches that lasted 10 years, no issues. New boat 3rd switch in 2 years.

I love that some mfg’s haven’t figured out people will pay more for a quality product vs Chinese shyte for a few bucks less. This is especially true when it comes to safety related products.
People vote with their wallets.

The Chinese are every bit as capable of building quality products as is any US company. They may be laughing their arses off when a US company requests that they build shit for the US public. They are just doing what we are asking them to do for us.
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Old 06-11-2019, 10:55 AM
  #35  
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I've had Rule switches in many previous boats and have one in current boat and never a problem.
I agree with an earlier poster, if you have faulty wiring and connections you can't blame the switch.
I'll keep my $29 switch and pass on a $135 Ultra which I think is ridiculously over priced.
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Old 06-11-2019, 12:09 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Rags View Post
I've had Rule switches in many previous boats and have one in current boat and never a problem.
I agree with an earlier poster, if you have faulty wiring and connections you can't blame the switch.
I'll keep my $29 switch and pass on a $135 Ultra which I think is ridiculously over priced.
I'll spend the 135 and know my much-more-than-that boat is still floating. I've installed a few Ultras over the years but I've never replaced one. btw - Bob, the guy who makes Ultras is the same guy who came up with Tef Gel. Damn smart fella!
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Old 06-11-2019, 12:24 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Polapea View Post
Thought it was just me. Previous boat had switches that lasted 10 years, no issues. New boat 3rd switch in 2 years.

I love that some mfg’s haven’t figured out people will pay more for a quality product vs Chinese shyte for a few bucks less. This is especially true when it comes to safety related products.
sorry this is just ignorance on your part. They can make anything needed - its just a matter of what price point its being made at. Keep in mind that most of these products are from AMERICAN manufacturers who choose to manufacture at a forced price point. China can out manufacture the USA every day of the week. There are very few things that we can out manufacture them on. If you dont think they can make quality product - take a look at every single Apple product that they make.. Its price point related - not country related. There are plenty of product made by USA manufacturers that are absolute shit.
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:37 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by sydngoose View Post
Ive read the all the comments posted, but nobody has told you what the actual problem is: It is NOT your float switch, it is NOT your pump. Your wiring is faulty to the pumps/ float switches.
When someone gets in your boat and uses inline but connectors to put new float switches and pumps in, possibly replace a length of wiring over the years, it sets the circuit up for failures. It could have been mechanics in there before you even took possession of the boat.

There is either corrosion at your butt connectors somewhere along your wiring route or excessive resistance in your circuit. This decreases the voltage to your pumps and switches. The pumps then have to run on less voltage making them work harder, burning them up.

I would almost guarantee you if you ran all NEW wiring ( w/ no butt connectors) from your helm bilge switch, batteries, to the pumps/ float switch, you would have trouble free bilge pumps for years. I truly believe you need to rewire your circuit completely.
This resonates with me. I have always been pretty diligent about bilge pumps so when I purchased the boat I now run I went kind of crazy on the wiring and connectors, making sure they were greased and the connections were well done. Even though I have a spare on board that rulemate 2000 from 2007 still keeps cranking. I'm always a little surprised every spring when that damn thing actually works. My biggest problem is dog hair getting into the bilge and slowing down the pump... LOL
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