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Old 06-09-2019, 06:18 PM
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Old 06-09-2019, 06:26 PM
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That's why designers adopted the Euro transom and outboard engine companies built longer, 20", 25" and 30" shaft lengths. To close the engine cutout from the sea and get the cowling out of the water. 20" is considered long shaft.
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Old 06-09-2019, 06:30 PM
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Old 06-09-2019, 06:58 PM
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Get yourself an adequate sea anchor and equip it with chain as needed to keep the sock below the surface. Watch some videos on their use as in the event you have engine trouble it should help keep the bow facing the incoming swells and reduce water splashing over your transom.
I have one and wish would have had ot many years ago when my boat stalled and the wind/chop picked up. I plan to also use it drift fishing to steady the ride and smoothen out my drift.
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Old 06-09-2019, 07:03 PM
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Old 06-09-2019, 07:18 PM
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Providing you have a higher well wall forward of the transom, you are probably ok as is.

A low transom has safety benefits as any water that comes over the side or front will also drain before the next wave hits you.

I would test it backing up into small chap to see if its really a problem as the well should contain it and drain what comes in the back. Well drains from Gemlux with flaps are only about $ 25 if you want more.
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:14 AM
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:15 AM
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If you post a picture of your current transom set up ( from inside the boat and from behind the boat) you will get more specific responses as this problem is not a new one. There are some very creative engineers on these forums.
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:09 AM
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:57 AM
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Agree with pics.

Also, have you ensured that no water is getting into the bracket?

As you pointed out, 4 strokes are heavier, and coupled with moving the engine rearward by mounting it on a bracket. I could see where that would throw things off. Meaning stern sitting lower in the water. I would think the bracket being full of air could help offset that change in weight distribution to some degree though. But I'm no expert by any means. Also, moving the full tank, batteries (or anything else) forward could help.
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Old 06-10-2019, 02:58 PM
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Old 06-10-2019, 02:59 PM
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:04 PM
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I have a notched aquasport 196 with a very low transom. Took me awhile to get use toit and feel safe. As long as you slowly come off plane and dont back down you will be fine. The more you run and know your boat the better you will feel with it. I have a manual bilge pump for the deck. You could also add a large bilge to the deck and route the exit through the starboar on your transom for a piece of mind.
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:07 PM
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The rigging hole to the left of your motor needs a fitting and flexible 2" hose over the wires and the holes to prevent water getting into that hole and sinking you. No Bilge pump will keep up with the water going down that opening.

The front seawall wall needs to be at least 4" higher than the rear notch in the transom.

Then I would take off the plates at each side of the motor to again make your hull safer, letting well water flow over the top of the notch again.

I do not think I would add more drains, but rather reduce the volume of the well so less water has to drain through them
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:15 PM
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Default Adding side shot to show bracket

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Old 06-10-2019, 03:22 PM
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:23 PM
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:33 PM
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Now that I've owned a Dusky I will never return to a notched transom.
i would add a "real" bracket and properly close off what they started....just my .02
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Old 06-10-2019, 04:51 PM
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I would start at the motor and move forward.

The motr was taken off its transom mount and raised 4-6" when the bracket was added. Was a longer shaft motor added too, or is the cavatation plate above the prop about 1-2" ( it should be) or now 6" higher than the keel, where it will ventilate at cruise speed?
Once you have moved the motor, it should be tilted forward enough so that the point in front of the prop, and the pop at least 4 Inches above the water line. Now go forward and see how close the cover is above the forward seawall to see if the notch can be raised to become a notchless wall.
I piece of 3/4 exterior ply cut to fit to fit the notch, painted with resin, then blanketed with cloth and resin will make that solid and waterproof.
I personally would lose the rope tow stand and tie to a corner cleat to clean that up
Then make the decision to loose the little wall close to the motor so that the well drains a lot faster over the top, and faster through the scuppers with less water left over.
I have never been in your hull, so take all of this with a grain of salt.
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Old 06-10-2019, 05:10 PM
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This has some interesting information in the article.

https://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/magazine/2016/august/avoiding-capsizing-and-swamping.asp
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