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Mercury/Yamaha F225 tilt/trim motor removal?

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Mercury/Yamaha F225 tilt/trim motor removal?

Old 05-23-2019, 04:28 AM
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Default Mercury/Yamaha F225 tilt/trim motor removal?

So I got a new tilt/trim motor in the mail and despite looking all over the internet I am still not quite sure how to go about removing this thing off the bracket. I went out fiddled with it last night. Found the correct allen wrench and got 2 of the 3 bolts loosened. As soon as I did, oil started gushing out. So I tightened the bolts back up real quick.
I don't understand why oil would be coming out of where the electrical motor bolts on. Is that normal?
The engine is trimmed up now. Since oil is coming out when I take the motor out that means fluid loss will lower the ram so I figure I need some way to hold up the engine. How do others do that? Maybe a couple 2x4s? How heavy is it? Theoretically it should only have to hold up half the total engine weight....Still that's ~275 pounds.
Finally how do I reach that last bolt in the back? Can I take the tilt unit partially off the bracket safely? Am I going to lose all the oil out of the unit?
I only have hand tools to do this job, no access to a forklift or engine hoist. Can I do this or not? Keep in mind I have swapped engines, replaced transmissions, replaced front wheel drive clutches etc.

Thanks for the help!
Old 05-23-2019, 04:39 AM
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Raise the engine fully up, then support it. I used a floor jack. I don't remember if the engine prop will do it or not, but I had to completely remove the PT&T assembly to replace the motor on my F200. I also resealed all the hyd. cylinders while I had it off. There a trick to removing those gland nuts as well. Heat is your friend there, and it won't hurt the Yamaha paint, so long as you don't over do it.

Yes, you will lose oil when you remove the motor assy.
Old 05-23-2019, 05:12 AM
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Relax.
First - supporting the engine - why isn't it sitting on the support lever?
that's what its for -
tilt all the way up - swing the lever down, lower onto lever.

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the motor bolts directly to the pump, so you'll lose a teaspoon or so of fluid
but that's all, you'll top off when you are done.

the bolt in the back corner against the transom can be a bear to access.

You may be able to avoid removing the entire assembly from the brackets -
and instead just swing it backwards:

with the engine weight on the tilt lever,
remove the circlip and slide out the pin that holds the tilt ram in place -
then lower it some.

Now remove the top 3 pair of bolts on both sides,
loosen the bottom-most bolts but leave them in place -

you can only pivot the assembly back a bit because of the piping on the bottom -
but that may let you get your fingers & wrench behind for that 3rd bolt.
Old 05-23-2019, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Fwpratt View Post
Relax.
First - supporting the engine - why isn't it sitting on the support lever?
that's what its for -
tilt all the way up - swing the lever down, lower onto lever.

Attachment 1099948



the motor bolts directly to the pump, so you'll lose a teaspoon or so of fluid
but that's all, you'll top off when you are done.

the bolt in the back corner against the transom can be a bear to access.

You may be able to avoid removing the entire assembly from the brackets -
and instead just swing it backwards:

with the engine weight on the tilt lever,
remove the circlip and slide out the pin that holds the tilt ram in place -
then lower it some.

Now remove the top 3 pair of bolts on both sides,
loosen the bottom-most bolts but leave them in place -

you can only pivot the assembly back a bit because of the piping on the bottom -
but that may let you get your fingers & wrench behind for that 3rd bolt.
Thanks Fwpratt!!!
First: AH yes it is sitting on the support lever! I use it ALL the time, I wasn't sure it was designed for that, but thinking about it, of course it is!
Second: A teaspoon of oil...Hmm I was not worried when it first started leaking but after a half a cup with no sign of slowing I got quite a bit more worried....and put it back together.

Thanks for the procedure. I am sure I can get the motor changed out now. But I am concerned about how much oil drained out. I got the boat a year ago and the tilt trim unit is new/re manufactured, It is clearly not original, but it looks like the tilt trim motor is. The ram unit is nice new gray paint and the motor is rusted and black paint. There was a bunch of work done a year ago before I bought the boat, including the trim unit and steering seals. Should I be concerned about the amount of oil that came out? Is there any other issues I should look for while I have it apart?
Old 05-23-2019, 09:17 AM
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Actually I just remembered. Last night when I took the two bolts out it was not all the way down on the lever lock. Does that make a difference? The pressure on the rams could have squeezed more out...
Old 05-23-2019, 10:50 AM
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it will be fine,
when you get the motor changed you'll top up the fluid and "bleed" the unit:

you only open the reservoir plug when all three rams are fully extended,
and then fill it to overflowing.

Put the plug back in and cycle all three rams: fully in, then fully back out.
Check & add fluid again, and repeat 2-3 times.

Sometimes while there is still air,
you have to 'help' - push or pull - the rams to get them full stroke in or out;
eventually all the air ends up at the top of the reservoir.
Old 05-26-2019, 05:05 AM
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Great information. I have a 1995 GW Adventure 209 with a rebuilt Yamaha F225 4 stroke. I started out just needing to change the seal on one of my tilt caps, due to leaking fluid. First I bought a seal kit, but the seal inside the first cap ended up being so disintegrated and very difficult to pick out, and then trying to get the new seal to fit back inside, I just decided to buy new tilt caps with the seals already installed. While working on the unit I also realized that my manual release had the head of the screw broken off so now I decided to try removing my hydraulic system so that I can fix that manual release as well. After removing all 3 bolts on each side I still can't get the unit removed. After reading this post I am about to go back out to my boat and look under and behind the hydraulic system as well, as there must be another screw holding it in.... just not sure where that one is yet.
Old 05-26-2019, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BurdSWFL View Post
Great information. I have a 1995 GW Adventure 209 with a rebuilt Yamaha F225 4 stroke. I started out just needing to change the seal on one of my tilt caps, due to leaking fluid. First I bought a seal kit, but the seal inside the first cap ended up being so disintegrated and very difficult to pick out, and then trying to get the new seal to fit back inside, I just decided to buy new tilt caps with the seals already installed. While working on the unit I also realized that my manual release had the head of the screw broken off so now I decided to try removing my hydraulic system so that I can fix that manual release as well. After removing all 3 bolts on each side I still can't get the unit removed. After reading this post I am about to go back out to my boat and look under and behind the hydraulic system as well, as there must be another screw holding it in.... just not sure where that one is yet.
There are 4 bolts on each side that hold the PTT unit on a Yamaha (61A and 69J, Non-Fast Trac) . Depending how your motor is mounted (mine is this way) the fourth bolt on each side will be blocked by the lower engine mounting bolts. You will need to remove the two lower engine mounting bolts to get those bolts out. You also need to remove the long bolt going through the bottom of the clamp bracket since it goes through the loop formed by the small hydraulic pipe in the bottom of the PTT. Don't forget to remove the jumper ground between the Zinc and the PTT. I usually go ahead and remove the four bolts holding the zinc on and clean it up with a wire wheel if its still in good shape. To jockey the PTT unit up and out from between the clamp brackets, the main tilt cylinder needs to be all the way down.

To the OP you will have a much easier time with changing the motor and making sure the O-ring that seals it is properly set if you remove the PTT unit from the engine. Also easier to get all painted before you put it back in.

Last edited by ddogopti; 05-26-2019 at 06:30 AM.
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