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Bennett trim taps stuck down

Old 05-18-2019, 07:49 PM
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Default Bennett trim taps stuck down

I was running in from 90mi offshore today and I couldn’t figure out why my autopilot was acting drunk. Only to find out both tabs are stuck down. I can hear the motor turn on but they are stuck. Where do I start with this? It was fun running home in seas with full tab..... fun.

Last edited by rltrbill; 05-19-2019 at 06:13 AM.
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Old 05-18-2019, 08:15 PM
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Hydraulic tabs? Check the fluid level first.
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Aliboy View Post
Hydraulic tabs? Check the fluid level first.
That would be my guess. If you were not solo pulling upward with a gaff or line while someone operated the switch may have worked.
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:42 AM
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If they are the common black Bennett actuators, they retract by an internal spring when a solenoid opens in the pump unit. If they wont retract it's one of three things; bad switch, bad wiring or bad solenoid.

If you cant readily find the problem you can crack each fluid line loose at the pump for just a moment. It will squirt out a small amount of fluid into the bilge (wrap with a rag) but they should retract quickly.
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:48 AM
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Check ground wires carefully for clean contact
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:50 AM
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do you have a joy stick for controlling their position?
I'd guess the trouble is a bad contact in the control.
Shoot in some WD40 and work the stick to see if it clears. If not then check ground wiring as above post suggest.
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:51 AM
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Red= Port Valve
Green= Starboard Valve
Blue=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
Yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
Black on HPU=Ground
Orange on Helm=Control Positive

Troubleshooting

1.If one side is not operating reverse hydraulic lines on the front of the Hydraulic Power Unit to determine if the malfunction is in HPU or actuator / hydraulic lines. If after reversing the lines symptom shifts to the other side the malfunction may exist in HPU. If the symptom remains on the same side, malfunction may exist with the actuator / hydraulic lines

2. Is the unit receiving a solid 12 volts? Low voltage will some times cause the solenoids to not open preventing the tabs from moving even though the pump motor is running.

3. Conduct the following test:
Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction
Orange (+), blue, red= Port trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, green=Starboard trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, red, green= Both trim tabs down
Orange (+), yellow, red= Port trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, green=Starboard trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, red, green= Both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.

This test may also be done right at the pump by substituting a "hot lead" for orange. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

4. If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

This was from Tabman
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Old 05-19-2019, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by muskrattown View Post
That would be my guess. If you were not solo pulling upward with a gaff or line while someone operated the switch may have worked.
we tried retracting them on the trailer with someone pushing up on it while using switch. Nothing- rock solid


Originally Posted by Rags View Post
do you have a joy stick for controlling their position?
I'd guess the trouble is a bad contact in the control.
Shoot in some WD40 and work the stick to see if it clears. If not then check ground wiring as above post suggest.
no joystick- just 2 rocket switches on my dash panel.....

Originally Posted by bills106 View Post
If they are the common black Bennett actuators, they retract by an internal spring when a solenoid opens in the pump unit. If they wont retract it's one of three things; bad switch, bad wiring or bad solenoid.

If you cant readily find the problem you can crack each fluid line loose at the pump for just a moment. It will squirt out a small amount of fluid into the bilge (wrap with a rag) but they should retract quickly.
thank you. I would say they are as starndard as can be. Factory installed on a 2005 Pursuit

Last edited by rltrbill; 05-19-2019 at 09:08 AM. Reason: Content
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Old 05-19-2019, 09:46 AM
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do you have the option where the trim tabs retract when the engines are turned off? Did they ever operate this way?
Wiring diagram shows standard Bennett system wiring.
https://wiringchartdiagram.com/benne...iring-diagram/
Get yourself a multimeter and start tracing the voltages.
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Old 05-19-2019, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Rags View Post
do you have the option where the trim tabs retract when the engines are turned off? Did they ever operate this way?
Wiring diagram shows standard Bennett system wiring.
https://wiringchartdiagram.com/benne...iring-diagram/
Get yourself a multimeter and start tracing the voltages.
no auto retract.... I’ll start chasing with a volt meter. Thank you
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Old 05-19-2019, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by mbureau22 View Post
Red= Port Valve
Green= Starboard Valve
Blue=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
Yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
Black on HPU=Ground
Orange on Helm=Control Positive

Troubleshooting

1.If one side is not operating reverse hydraulic lines on the front of the Hydraulic Power Unit to determine if the malfunction is in HPU or actuator / hydraulic lines. If after reversing the lines symptom shifts to the other side the malfunction may exist in HPU. If the symptom remains on the same side, malfunction may exist with the actuator / hydraulic lines

2. Is the unit receiving a solid 12 volts? Low voltage will some times cause the solenoids to not open preventing the tabs from moving even though the pump motor is running.

3. Conduct the following test:
Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction
Orange (+), blue, red= Port trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, green=Starboard trim tab down
Orange (+), blue, red, green= Both trim tabs down
Orange (+), yellow, red= Port trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, green=Starboard trim tab up
Orange (+), yellow, red, green= Both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.

This test may also be done right at the pump by substituting a "hot lead" for orange. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

4. If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

This was from Tabman
Very good info , Tabman is missed greatly.

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Last edited by Dacman; 05-19-2019 at 03:02 PM.
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Old 05-19-2019, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Dacman View Post


Very good info , Tabman is missed greatly.
Tabman STILL rules....

Chuck

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Old 05-19-2019, 03:03 PM
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Thanks for fixing my typo. Food job.
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Old 05-19-2019, 03:11 PM
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The first place I'd look is the multi wire plug close to the motor. They are "famous" for corrosion.
I had to cut the plug off and splice the wires together with heat shrink butt connectors.
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Old 05-19-2019, 03:11 PM
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It's all food.

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Old 05-19-2019, 07:36 PM
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It is real tough getting to the back of the switches...I checked the voltage at the solenoid on top of the pump(under the clear housing). The wire going to the solenoid with the green wire had no current when the switches were activated in either direction. The other solenoid had current going to it only on the tab down command. I am assuming that is the up solenoid..... with that intel- I’m thinking switch? I checked the green wire current at the connector and nothing when the switches are activated......
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Old 05-20-2019, 02:39 AM
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I'm assuming you mean no voltage when you say no current.
If you have enough electronic savvy you can simulate the function of the switch with a few jumpers wires. If you're not confident then just get someone to fix it for you.
Now that you know there is no voltage to the solenoid you should be measuring ohms (resistance) across the switch contacts to see which is open. Disconnect the +12 VDC supply wire before you do this, you can't have voltage when checking ohms.
This job will be allot easier if you can pop the switch out of the panel so you can get to the wires on the back of the rockers. You will need to pop the switch out anyway if it needs to be replaced.

Last edited by Rags; 05-20-2019 at 03:05 AM.
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Old 05-20-2019, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rltrbill View Post
It is real tough getting to the back of the switches...I checked the voltage at the solenoid on top of the pump(under the clear housing). The wire going to the solenoid with the green wire had no current when the switches were activated in either direction. The other solenoid had current going to it only on the tab down command. I am assuming that is the up solenoid..... with that intel- I’m thinking switch? I checked the green wire current at the connector and nothing when the switches are activated......
Do you have the Euro switch? Pop off the cover and remove the screws, pull the switch out of the hole and trouble shooting will be easier.




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Old 05-20-2019, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Dacman View Post


Do you have the Euro switch? Pop off the cover and remove the screws, pull the switch out of the hole and trouble shooting will be easier.




I do not- it is integrated rockers in my switch panel from the factory- they used Carling switch rockers.... The colors aren't exactly the same as the instructions either. BUT, I was able to raise the tabs by jumping the switch (connecting red/yellow and 12v.I bought replacements today....
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Old 05-20-2019, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rltrbill View Post
I do not- it is integrated rockers in my switch panel from the factory- they used Carling switch rockers.... The colors aren't exactly the same as the instructions either. BUT, I was able to raise the tabs by jumping the switch (connecting red/yellow and 12v.I bought replacements today....
So your switches are bad? Where did they make the wire connections? Is the harness at the pump still there?
Tech tip. Take a few photos of the switches and wires color placement before unhooking any wires.
You probably knew that but just saying, lots of Picts on my part backs up my bad brain memory.
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