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2002 Jhonson 70 HP HELP PLEASE

Old 05-17-2019, 07:47 PM
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Default 2002 Jhonson 70 HP HELP PLEASE

Hello all I am in need of help please.

2002 jhonson 70 hp 2strk 3 cyl.
very hard to start if i let i sit for more than one day, once it starts the first time , It will start on the first crank until it gets cool again. When it starts it runs like a champ at 34.3 MPH on a McKee craft 16’.

I have no spark on any of the cylinders during cold start. I have checked compression and is close to or 150 psi across all cyl, cleaned out grounds, checked ohms on battery cables, spark plug wires, ignition coils. Battery has 12.4 v and 640 cca, new ignition switch.

Tried a brand new power pack with no change in results, have not taken fly wheel off to check stator, do not know how to check timing.

i am mechanically and electronically inclined but I have my limits as I am not an outboard tech or an electrical engineer.

what can it be? Anyone run into similar issue. I like to figure things out before I pay a pro but I feel like I hit a concrete wall, don’t know what else to try or trouble shoot.

thanks in advance for all of your help.


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Old 05-17-2019, 07:54 PM
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My experience with an Evinrude of that vintage leads me to believe that the problem might be with the Engine Control Unit. You might try getting a hair dryer and heating the unit while cold to see if it helps when trying to start.
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:15 PM
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Thank you for the input John, what is the engine control unit? Are you referring to the power pack?

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Old 05-17-2019, 08:58 PM
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If you are not getting spark while cranking the motor (it should be able to jump a 7/16" gap) then you have to troubleshoot the components using a DVA meter or adapter and an ohmmeter. Follow a factory service manual for your model motor or download the CDI Electronics ignition troubleshooting guide.

View Troubleshooting Guide | CDI Electronics
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:01 PM
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Be sure you have Champion QL78YC plugs like new gapped to .030". and cranking is about 300 rpm
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:24 PM
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It's called the Engine Control Unit in the diagrams, but I think it's commonly referred to as the power pack.
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:28 PM
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I have tried a new poer pack with no change in symptoms, I have new spark plugs and they are the correct ones. Engine has behaved the same prior to and after the new plugs.
i am currently reconditioning my battery and recharging it to see if it changes anything.
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Old 05-17-2019, 11:02 PM
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Reconditioning the battery? I think you need to revisit testing the spark to be 100% sure it has no spark at cold start, that's a pretty rare symptom, probably checking the start procedure and ensuring the enrichment system (choke sort of) is working properly might be a good idea.
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Old 05-18-2019, 12:02 AM
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Last 2 stroke was made by OMC 2001.

As noelm suggested, probably enrichment system. Check priming solenoid and lines and operation from ignition key. You do know ignition key needs to be pushed in to engage 'choke'?

What do you mean by: reconditioning the battery?
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Old 05-18-2019, 03:08 AM
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if i had to guess , i would be looking at the trigger wire /s from power pack to the trigger under the fly wheel , they sometimes break , fray or get corrode where the timer base moves.."that said , im no expert like some , just a lay man guessing ".
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Old 05-18-2019, 03:11 AM
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12.4 volts might give a week spark. It should be 14.4 volts. Try jumping it when cold.
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Old 05-18-2019, 03:26 AM
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2002 Johnson 70 was a 4 stroke. Is J70PL4SNF your model #?
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Old 05-18-2019, 04:14 AM
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so , is this thing a 4 or 2 stroke ? ,OP defined it in his first post as a 2 stroke
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Old 05-18-2019, 05:02 AM
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If it has 3 cylinders, its a 2-stroke. I would check to see if the primer solenoid is operating when you push the key in. When pushing the key in you should hear a click at the motor. If you don't hear the click, then its not working and you can override it by flipping the red lever to the "emergency start" position - opposite of the regular run position with the lever laying along the body of the solenoid.
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Old 05-18-2019, 05:03 AM
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First off, I apologize, my motor is a 2000, J70PLSIS.
my battery charger has a reconditioning mode.
so, I reconditioned the battery and charged it to a full 13.1 V.
i cranked and cranked yesterday and never started. Went out today and it started.
i jumped the solenoid to starter while watching for spark, cranked for about 8 seconds and still never saw a spark, suddenly it started and the spark was apparent after that.

I do have a push to prime, primer solenoid clicks when key is pressed, have tried the solenoid in both positions and results are always the same.

Thoughts?.....
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Old 05-18-2019, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dcano View Post
First off, I apologize, my motor is a 2000, J70PLSIS.
my battery charger has a reconditioning mode.
so, I reconditioned the battery and charged it to a full 13.1 V.
i cranked and cranked yesterday and never started. Went out today and it started.
i jumped the solenoid to starter while watching for spark, cranked for about 8 seconds and still never saw a spark, suddenly it started and the spark was apparent after that.

I do have a push to prime, primer solenoid clicks when key is pressed, have tried the solenoid in both positions and results are always the same.

Thoughts?.....
you really should test that trigger wire !.
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Old 05-18-2019, 07:14 AM
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How do I test the trigger? I know, I should have a service manual.
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Old 05-18-2019, 07:51 AM
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With the spark plugs removed disconnect the black with yellow stripe wire and then check for spark.If you have spark you know it's not the engine side.
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Old 05-18-2019, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Dcano View Post
How do I test the trigger? I know, I should have a service manual.
because you have what appears to be an intermittent fault , testing can be very difficult.

i would start with a wiggle test ,by that i mean; have someone crank the motor ,with all the plugs out whilst you wiggle ,push and pull at all your ignition wiring between the stator (trigger) and the CDI module. , even go a far to the coils , you will either completely break the connection ,in which case ,no spark at all ' or' join it together. and get a continual spark from all 3 cylinders.

something that just come to mind, is the ring connectors on the ignition switch or the switch itself may be faulty .
the ignition switch can be bypassed to eliminate everything past the big red plug ,that is if you have access to a wire harness diagram for your model ,i don`t have an electronic copy of the diagram for your motor (just the book) , but i am sure someone that has one can screen shot and post here for you.
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Old 05-18-2019, 09:17 AM
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Im thinking something shorted or corroded on the kill circuit . Yellow/black wire from M on ignition switch to power pack.

Look at this.

cdi_113-4808.pdf




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