Go Back  The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum > BOATING FORUMS > The Boating Forum
Reload this Page >

150 Ocean Runner - falls on face after trolling

Notices
The Boating Forum

150 Ocean Runner - falls on face after trolling

Old 07-29-2019, 06:54 AM
  #41  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by CRUCIAN CONFUSION View Post
I had this same problem and it wasn't fuel related. It was this 16" wire assembly that told the boat to shift (forward, neutral, or reverse) it keeps the boat at low idle to protect the lower unit. The sending module in it was bad. I think like $75 and three connections and I was back in business. I could be totally wrong but just wanted to share. I don't remember what the assembly was called.
Did you see 4K+ rpms with that issue? I'd imagine what you are talking about would restrict rpms a lot more.

Originally Posted by mbb View Post
Screen in pickup tube of fuel tank can get clogged with debris.
Does bulb go flat? Restriction
not flat....poor fuel pump, air leak into line, filter screen after bulb
Bulb doesn't go flat. I ran it off an external tank straight to the motor with no changes. This was with a different bulb too, so I've eliminated everything on the fuel tank side.
The filter on the motor is clean.

Originally Posted by mbb View Post
Did you put right jets in carbs??? Right kit?
I didn't swap the jets - they are the "original" or basically whatever was in there previously. I guess someone could have installed incorrect jets at some point but doubtful.

Originally Posted by mbb View Post
stator cause intermittent issues too.
This is something I haven't messed with yet.
Old 07-29-2019, 10:18 AM
  #42  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,557
Received 461 Likes on 311 Posts
Default

the shift interrupter switch is notorious to go bad due to the way its mounted.Just unplug it and see if that is the culprit. I chased this on my 225 for a while. Also check for free rotation of the timing base trigger under the stator. if it is not turning freely the coils on the stator have cooked off the "potting material"
Old 07-29-2019, 12:16 PM
  #43  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by nevets View Post
the shift interrupter switch is notorious to go bad due to the way its mounted.Just unplug it and see if that is the culprit. I chased this on my 225 for a while. Also check for free rotation of the timing base trigger under the stator. if it is not turning freely the coils on the stator have cooked off the "potting material"
I've tested this and it is working as it should, but I've since unplugged it just to eliminate another variable. It shifts fine with it unplugged, so i'll probably just leave it unplugged anyways.
Old 07-29-2019, 03:03 PM
  #44  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Wake County, NC
Posts: 677
Received 86 Likes on 64 Posts
Default

I have the same motor. If I recall correctly, the shift interrupter cuts the power to one bank to allow for shifting in the lower unit. I don't understand why it should run and shift no differently when either plugged in or unplugged.
Old 07-29-2019, 05:58 PM
  #45  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,557
Received 461 Likes on 311 Posts
Default

OK if the thermostats are new and functional test the temp sensors, brown wires on mine. I had a stuck thermostat that was taking out one bank thru that wire
Old 07-30-2019, 06:07 AM
  #46  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by CNC Boater View Post
I have the same motor. If I recall correctly, the shift interrupter cuts the power to one bank to allow for shifting in the lower unit. I don't understand why it should run and shift no differently when either plugged in or unplugged.
The shift interrupter is a switch with a sprung button that rolls over a cam on the shift linkage. When you shift from forward to neutral the button is pushed for a split second and should cut one bank momentarily to make it easier to get out of gear.

I've pressed the button with the motor @ idle and it clearly cuts one bank, so I know it works. With the sensor disconnected it will never have the opportunity to malfunction while at speed, so I don't have to wonder if the switch has somehow activated and is restricting my RPMs. I disconnected it for testing purposes, and just didn't bother reconnecting it because the motor has no issues at all going in and out of gear without it. It's one less thing to worry about for now.
Likes:
Old 07-30-2019, 06:19 AM
  #47  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by nevets View Post
OK if the thermostats are new and functional test the temp sensors, brown wires on mine. I had a stuck thermostat that was taking out one bank thru that wire
The thermostats are new, and i'm not seeing any high temp warnings on the tach. Maybe the warning isn't working, but alll cyls are firing (at idle at least) so I don't think this is the issue. I've confirmed this with an IR temp gun over each cyl head, and I can actually watch the temps drop when the thermostats open. (i've also confirmed each cyl has spark / fuel in the bowls etc)

I'm starting to wonder if there is an air leak behind intake manifold. Would a leak there trigger the CEL? Or a better question may be, where is the sensor that triggers a fuel restriction / air leak CEL located?
Name:  2019-07-29.png
Views: 93
Size:  300.8 KB

I'm still looking for a Johnson / OMC mechanic in the PA / MD / NJ area if anyone has suggestions.
Old 07-30-2019, 07:00 AM
  #48  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Wake County, NC
Posts: 677
Received 86 Likes on 64 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by silverbullet87 View Post
The shift interrupter is a switch with a sprung button that rolls over a cam on the shift linkage. When you shift from forward to neutral the button is pushed for a split second and should cut one bank momentarily to make it easier to get out of gear.

I've pressed the button with the motor @ idle and it clearly cuts one bank, so I know it works. With the sensor disconnected it will never have the opportunity to malfunction while at speed, so I don't have to wonder if the switch has somehow activated and is restricting my RPMs. I disconnected it for testing purposes, and just didn't bother reconnecting it because the motor has no issues at all going in and out of gear without it. It's one less thing to worry about for now.
Thanks for the explanation. I understand it now.
Old 07-30-2019, 07:00 AM
  #49  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by CNC Boater View Post


Thanks for the explanation. I understand it now.
No problem - I appreciate you trying to help. This thing has been a pain in the ass.

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.