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New 5.7l Vortec Puking Coolant??

Old 06-17-2019, 08:25 PM
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Wrong gasket IMHO.
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Old 06-18-2019, 03:46 AM
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Going to be taking it apart this week again. Iíll update you once itís apart....
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:39 AM
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My money is on the gasket as well.
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Old 06-18-2019, 05:01 AM
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Check for combustion gasses in the coolant.
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Old 06-18-2019, 03:51 PM
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Well. Looks like this is my fault, yet again.... I guess you should NOT put that much bolt sealer on the bolts. Mine leaked through and Iím guessing this is what caused my problems. Checked the deck and heads with a .002 feeler gauge and she was flat. Still going to take heads to the shop to have them checked out with the intake

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Old 06-18-2019, 03:54 PM
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Coolant in cylidner was because I did not drain the block.**

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Old 06-18-2019, 04:23 PM
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I just put it on the threads only, I thought I saw white stuff under the bolt heads in one of your pix and said to myself...hmmm...
we all live & learn on these projects!
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by LouC View Post
I just put it on the threads only, I thought I saw white stuff under the bolt heads in one of your pix and said to myself...hmmm...
we all live & learn on these projects!
I put it on the threads only as well, I just put too much. I'm guessing that the sealant on my bolts was good enough alone. Never had a problem with it leaking beforehand, just the combustion gas issue.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:55 PM
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I hope you get it figured out, you could probably take that thing apart blindfolded by now!
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Old 06-19-2019, 04:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mikie View Post
I hope you get it figured out, you could probably take that thing apart blindfolded by now!
yeah. First time took half a day to get apart, second time took 3 hours and now I had the thing apart in an hour. Saved a lot of time leaving all the stuff on the intake, I left the risers and manifolds connected.
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Old 06-19-2019, 04:45 AM
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Can't really see the sealant excess being the problem. The block bolt holes are open on the bottom unlike most other engines, so any excess gets pushed out the bottom of the hole.

Something else going on here. I wonder about the flatness of the head decks. There are screw ups possible in milling that may be hard to detect with straight edge and feeler. Assuming block deck is factory, that should be good.

Take a couple outboard head bolts and screw them into the block til they stop at end of threads (or stop for any other reason). Measure between bottom of bolt head and block deck. Then measure head thickness at the outboard bolt holes. This to get rid of any suspicion that bolts bottom before building proper clamping force. Good to do on other bolt holes too, but the measurement is not as easy there.
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Old 06-19-2019, 04:50 AM
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I'd be curious to see what a machine shop would say if you just brought them those heads and told them exactly what you wanted to do with them (install on a non-vortec engine) and see what they say. Try to find the best shop in your area that does a lot of high performance upgrade work.
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Old 06-19-2019, 05:11 AM
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agreed, there is something else going on here .

? when you surfaced the deck ,did you use sand paper or a grind stone .
im guessing here , but if there is "crowning" (as it looks in your pics) around the edges of the sharps the gasket will not seal properly.

+1 , take the heads to a local shop that does performance chevy`s , they will direct you if there are any changes that need to be addressed , as far as i can tell with research , they "should" be the same fitment , i do know there are 2 different part numbers when it comes to Vortec heads, ,however i dont know what the difference is or whether it could cause your issue ,,possibly has to do with 5.0 to 5.7.only ,but i dont know , do some research of your own.there?.

check all those steamer holes line up both on the heads , gaskets and engine block , .

post some pics of the gaskets you removed. orientation to heads and block as you removed them.

i hope you understand that people here are doing there best to help you out here, but it is hard to do without actually having our heads in the motor.

Last edited by 1breakinit; 06-19-2019 at 05:21 AM.
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Old 06-19-2019, 05:28 AM
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I did a bit of reading on putting Vortec heads on non Vortec engines and came across the instructions that say, there must be a coolant bypass hose from the intake manifold to the water pump. Don't know if this applies to marine engines with closed cooling, but it is interesting none the less! Might want to research this a bit....
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Old 06-19-2019, 05:33 AM
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Looks like someone dressed the BLOCK with a file. Notice there appears to be low spots around the water passages. NEW head gasket every time?? What are you using for a long straight edge? A 2x4 won't work, btw. I just still think something else is going on. Pull the water pump and take the back off it.

Last edited by billinstuart; 06-19-2019 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:17 AM
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I agree with bill that there is something else going on I agree with taking off the water pump and having a look. Pull all the hoses see if any of the fittings have any build up. The head that was hot I would pull everything apart on that side both the raw and fresh water systems. Something is restricting flow somewhere and I know you donít want to but might want to buy the thicker set of head gaskets since it is apart again
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by tad117 View Post
I agree with bill that there is something else going on I agree with taking off the water pump and having a look. Pull all the hoses see if any of the fittings have any build up. The head that was hot I would pull everything apart on that side both the raw and fresh water systems. Something is restricting flow somewhere and I know you donít want to but might want to buy the thicker set of head gaskets since it is apart again
what would the thicker set do for me? Is there any disadvantages? Iím just going to go ahead and put a new water pump on. Why not just do to now, Iíve got the thing ripped apart.
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by tad117 View Post
I agree with bill that there is something else going on I agree with taking off the water pump and having a look. Pull all the hoses see if any of the fittings have any build up. The head that was hot I would pull everything apart on that side both the raw and fresh water systems. Something is restricting flow somewhere and I know you donít want to but might want to buy the thicker set of head gaskets since it is apart again
Also, Iím not sure how funk could get sucked up in the closed cooling system. It never overheated before, I had the heads cleaned, maganfluxed and decked before I put them on. Not sure what kind of junk would get in there. Iím not doubting you, Iím just curious. Could the external leak suck in air? Is that possible? I would think the overheating had to do with this external leak??
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:07 AM
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Could be debris from water pump fins deteriorating corrosion from sitting could be many possibilities. Thicker headgaskets are going to raise the heads back to where they were before being decked and should give a better seal to the intake manifold
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by tad117 View Post
Could be debris from water pump fins deteriorating corrosion from sitting could be many possibilities. Thicker headgaskets are going to raise the heads back to where they were before being decked and should give a better seal to the intake manifold
Im having a hard time finding them. What are they called? Is there a special name for them? Do they have to be Marine grade?
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