Notices
Like Tree5Likes

Teak Maintenance

Old 05-11-2019, 02:51 PM
  #21  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,024
Default

Wash and wet the teak with a soapy solution until the dirt is gone. Use a soft brush to apply diluted household bleach. Let it sit for 30 mins and wash off. If the colour hasn't come back enough, repeat. Wherever you can, brush across the grain rather than along the grain. That will help prevent the 'grooving' that happens as teak ages. You might do 3 or 4 coats of the bleach, but the grey will be gone. I prefer to use a powdered bleach like you wife might have used on kids clothes or nappies etc. Keep the solution pretty strong. After that, you can coat it with what you prefer. All the options have pros and cons.
Aliboy is offline  
Old 05-11-2019, 04:30 PM
  #22  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Jax FL
Posts: 2,602
Default

Originally Posted by NedLloyd View Post


Yes, S.S. or bronze wool pads would be fine, just never regular steel wool pads.

Yes, I let mine bleach to a nice light gray, which is what all boats, especially sport fishermen were before the world went all ‘boutiquey” with boats. My whole cockpit sole is teak, the wheelhouse area is all teal, the side decks are teak and the entire foredeck is teak, and it is all 62 years old.
They are some work but there us no more beautiful wood on a boat than freshly oiled teak. Varnish looks good but it's not really any easier. Wiping on oil more often is a pleasure. Stripping varnish off is work.
Jumpsummo is online now  
Old 05-13-2019, 05:55 AM
  #23  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: N.E. CT
Posts: 2,641
Default

Originally Posted by Jumpsummo View Post
They are some work but there us no more beautiful wood on a boat than freshly oiled teak. Varnish looks good but it's not really any easier. Wiping on oil more often is a pleasure. Stripping varnish off is work.
Hmmm, ........... I think I have enough of both teak and varnished mahogany to satisfy most........ again, I prefer my teak left natural.



NedLloyd is online now  
Old 05-13-2019, 06:56 AM
  #24  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ocean City, NJ
Posts: 1,927
Default

To answer your question, any cleaners, (and especially the brighteners) will remove the wax. There is just no getting around it. Based on what you have described regarding the condition of your teak, I would strongly recommend:

-Sand to remove the gray and smooth the teak. Due to the exposure to the elements your teak is now grained and rough. You need to sand it smooth. 80 grit, 120 grit, 220 grit until smooth.
-After that, you may or may not need a cleaner, depending on how long it has been since your teak has been maintained. Your teak should now be a light color like unfinished wood. If that is the result of sanding, proceed to the Teak Prep step below. If not, follow with a cleaner.
-If you do need to use a cleaner, only use a cleaner that is not harsh, like Teak Decking Systems Eco-100. It contains no acid. I've used them all, and this is one of the few products that is effective, while not being overly harsh on the wood. Never use the cleaner scrubbing with the grain, as it will only damage the teak, and make it harder to keep clean down the road.
-At this point, your teak will not be "blonde". If you prefer blonde, light colored teak, (which will result in golden teak when oiled, or look nice and light like the Semco sealed teak furniture in the previous post), then you will need to use a teak brightener. This is Oxalic Acid, so it will strip wax. I use Tip Top Teak Cleaner. Forget the two part cleaners like Snappy Teak, and others. I have found them to be much too harsh.
-Teak Prep. Perhaps the most important step. MDR's Teak Prep is a must after all this work. It will remove most of those black spots you see in teak that has been improperly sealed, or has trapped moisture. Follow the directions and apply, then follow with your choice of Semco, some type of oil, or in your case, you may want a more permanent/long lasting finish like Sikkens/Cetol. Keep in mind the long lasting finishes are tough to remove and re-do once applied. I leave our cockpit deck natural, as it's too much of a hassle keeping fish blood or ballyhoo stains from ruining a great looking oil job. I then oil the covering boards and helm deck with my own mixture of MDR's Lite n Easy Teak Oil, and MDR Golden Teak Oil. I prefer the Lite N Easy/Golden Teak Oil mix over the straight MDR Golden Teak Oil, which is a bit too dark for my taste.

There are hundreds of products out there, and I've tried a good bit of them. I stay away from most of the products available off the shelf at West Marine. They are junk, and most will damage your teak. If done right, I usually get 4-6 weeks out of a job, then do it again in mid season. The key is to keep the sun off the teak, (I have a cockpit sun shade), which will turn the teak back to it's natural gray state if you have kept the teak bare, or used a short term oil protection.

Last edited by cobraarvey; 05-13-2019 at 07:03 AM.
cobraarvey is offline  
Old 05-13-2019, 07:05 AM
  #25  
Senior MemberCaptains Club Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ocean City, NJ
Posts: 1,927
Default

The products I use:






Chefkelso11 likes this.
cobraarvey is offline  
Old 05-13-2019, 08:32 AM
  #26  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Jax FL
Posts: 2,602
Default

Originally Posted by NedLloyd View Post
Hmmm, ........... I think I have enough of both teak and varnished mahogany to satisfy most........ again, I prefer my teak left natural.



Now that's some well kept wood. Nothing beats that for looks.
NedLloyd likes this.
Jumpsummo is online now  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread