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Injectadeck Tiara tips

Old 04-14-2019, 07:57 PM
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Default Injectadeck Tiara tips

I have developed some “typical” soft spots in the cockpit of my ‘86 Tiara, not huge or too bad yet, but I want to take care of it. I was already planning to upgrade the cockpit this season with PlasTeak pvc/synthetic teak - I got it on the swim platform and love it, but its a big expense to do the whole cockpit so I want to shore-up the deck before I invest. Since it’s going to be covered with the fake teak it doesn’t have to be a pretty repair, just strong. Injectadeck seems to be a good fit for what I’m looking to do (based on my initial research). Anyone done this on a tiara or similar cored cockpit deck? The soft spots are fairly localized and do not go into stringers or affect the overall structural integrity of the deck, i’d just like to firm them up and stop their spread. I’m already anticipating the armchair quarterbacks who think that anything except cutting out the deck and re-coring it is akin to sacrilege (spare me), but to do that for maybe 2 square feet total on a 70 square foot cockpit is not something I see as warranted in my instance...

Anyone who has used the product have any tips or bits of wisdom to impart?
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Old 04-15-2019, 05:29 AM
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I'd say try it and document the project and post it here.I'm a fan of the method because it's way less expensive and invasive that cut and replace.You always get people that disagree with anything outside the box,but not everybody wants to dump $10K or more and 6 months on fixing a soft deck.
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:45 AM
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Exactly my thoughts. I'm going to order it and give it a go, I'll be sure to document... in the meantime, if anyone else has tips to avoid pitfalls...
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:50 AM
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I have had 100% positive experience injecting decks but no need to drop the $300/$400 on the injectadeck kit. Get a "quart" or smaller kit of thin epoxy resin with medium hardener from US Composites for < $24 and done. I'm sure you can scrounge up an empty caulk tube or big syringe for the injecting duties.

Epoxy : Epoxy Resins and Hardeners

Drill in the morning, apply a heat lamp (get the deck to 100 - 120F) or park in the sun to encourage any moisture that might be present to evaporate and inject 4 - 5hours later.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:51 AM
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The only downside I see with these methods is that it's going to make the eventual full repair a PITA. Personally I think I'd try the Gorilla Glue method.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by acme54321 View Post
The only downside I see with these methods is that it's going to make the eventual full repair a PITA. Personally I think I'd try the Gorilla Glue method.
I'm curious about why you think it would make it more difficult to repair - or why you would need to if it works as intended? Even if for some reason you wanted to re-core the whole deck later, you're just cutting out foam cored sandwich - same as you would otherwise? Injectadeck isn't epoxy, its polyurethane structural foam
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Old 04-15-2019, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by nb123 View Post
Injectadeck isn't epoxy, its polyurethane structural foam
Yup....but thin laminating epoxy works better

Next beater boat I come across that needs any deck work may very well be the benefactor of a very similar product available at finer Lowes/Home Depots everywhere - PL Premium adhesive, has no price enhancing marine moniker but is absolutely a very fine working moisture cured urethane, in fact I built a boat with it. As with any moisture cured urethane it expands as it cures but not as much as a pure foam such as injectadeck I think. I would also choose this over the hyper expensive kit you are considering. Good luck
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Old 04-15-2019, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by nb123 View Post
I'm curious about why you think it would make it more difficult to repair - or why you would need to if it works as intended? Even if for some reason you wanted to re-core the whole deck later, you're just cutting out foam cored sandwich - same as you would otherwise? Injectadeck isn't epoxy, its polyurethane structural foam
Because you're going to have a big hunk of stuff (epoxy/foam/etc) stuck to one or both of the skins that you'll have to deal with. These are temporary repairs, you aren't fixing the issue, just a symptom. It's going to continue to degrade, you might be slowing it down some though. If I had a small soft spot this is probably what I would do as well knowing that at some point it's probably going to get worse.
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Old 04-15-2019, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by acme54321 View Post
Because you're going to have a big hunk of stuff (epoxy/foam/etc) stuck to one or both of the skins that you'll have to deal with. These are temporary repairs, you aren't fixing the issue, just a symptom. It's going to continue to degrade, you might be slowing it down some though. If I had a small soft spot this is probably what I would do as well knowing that at some point it's probably going to get worse.
Yes, if I get a few more seasons without having to hack up the deck it will have been well worth it!
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Old 04-15-2019, 01:23 PM
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I did a small repair (about 12" x 24") on a cored deck using West System, filler, and the West syringe. Worked great. The hard part was getting the soft spot up to normal height in the area where the core was compressed/soft. I used a make-shift bridge with some screws into the skin, wasn't pretty, but was effective. Drilled a bunch of little holes into the core, injected the epoxy until it was level or slightly proud of all the holes and let it kick for a few days. Used a similar technique to fill a void left by some hardware that was removed from a balsa cored deck, that too has been solid for years.
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Old 04-15-2019, 02:49 PM
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I've done Gorilla Glue method as well as used US Composites thin epoxy. Applied similar to above post. Felt more confident in Gorilla Glue since the polyurethane reacted with small amounts of remaining moisture to make a chemical bond.
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Old 04-15-2019, 03:03 PM
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step 1 is correcting the source of the water intrusion, step 2 would be insuring the additional weight of whatever you inject does not distort the surface so it doesnt sag

of course you also need to make sure whatever you inject doesnt run out a screw hole and onto the headliner, engine compartment, etc


the plasdek aint cheap the expense in the fiberglass repair is in the finish work you might be surprised at the cost of having it properly repaired taking into consideration you will be covering it with the teak but the decision is yours to make
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Old 04-15-2019, 03:04 PM
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I've seen posts here about using Gorilla Glue. Which one, there are several (a lot) types of Gorilla glue, is it the one that comes as two part epoxy?
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Raybo Marine NY View Post
step 1 is correcting the source of the water intrusion, step 2 would be insuring the additional weight of whatever you inject does not distort the surface so it doesnt sag

of course you also need to make sure whatever you inject doesnt run out a screw hole and onto the headliner, engine compartment, etc


the plasdek aint cheap the expense in the fiberglass repair is in the finish work you might be surprised at the cost of having it properly repaired taking into consideration you will be covering it with the teak but the decision is yours to make
All fair points. The soft spots are near the pry-up round access plates in the cockpit sole. When I inject the foam I will remove the pry-ups and re-bed them. I’m also going to grind out any large cracks in the gel coat, patch and repair them and then epoxy coat the whole deck before painting in the margins where the PlasDeck joints will have a reveal. In terms of anything running out below the deck... nothin underneath there except for 400 gallons of aluminum fuel tank. If I can firm up the spots sufficiently after injecting the foam and after I rebed the access hatches, I will feel good putting down the PlasDeck. If I can’t, well then I just performed a $300 experiment for “science”...!
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Old 04-15-2019, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by HTJ View Post
I have had 100% positive experience injecting decks but no need to drop the $300/$400 on the injectadeck kit. Get a "quart" or smaller kit of thin epoxy resin with medium hardener from US Composites for < $24 and done. I'm sure you can scrounge up an empty caulk tube or big syringe for the injecting duties.

Epoxy : Epoxy Resins and Hardeners

Drill in the morning, apply a heat lamp (get the deck to 100 - 120F) or park in the sun to encourage any moisture that might be present to evaporate and inject 4 - 5hours later.
I have used the us composites epoxy to firm up a deck with good results as well. You can even add a little wood flower as well if you have big voids

amazon has some big syringes that are made for jello shooters that work well. For injecting.
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Old 04-15-2019, 06:46 PM
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Since the soft spots are near a deck plate you may want to consider the method I used. I was able to pull out the rotten core using a sawsall pruning blade, cleaned it out good using a round wire brush, used a fan to let it dry out really well and mixed up some resin, dunked balsa core in the resin, pushed it in and clamped it down. This made a solid repair and will never get wet again. I will never let a hatch in a cored deck go like that again, if the wood was sealed it would have never happened. This was one of those live and learn moments.
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:49 AM
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Geeeez guys,the op wants to try Injecta Deck to avoid pulling the deck apart.Why not let him do what he wants and report back on how it works? A positive report would be a great bit of info to have in your back pocket if the same happens on your boat.$300 for a Inject a deck kit is a drop in the bucket compared to a tear off and rebuild.The op wasn't looking for alternatives.Go for it and lets see how you do!
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:29 AM
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For me the expansion aspect is most appealing. None of the other products mentioned here do that. I've been researching this very subject for a 1'x2' repair and the expansion aspect has me attracted. I've read a few times that there is a different commercial product that is similar or the same chemically but nobody has named it. Does anyone know what that might be?
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:14 AM
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I ordered the kit yesterday, depending on how quick I receive it I may take a crack at it on Sunday - I will take lots of pictures... not looking forward to that queasy feeling of putting a drill bit through the deck on that first hole!
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by nb123 View Post
I ordered the kit yesterday, depending on how quick I receive it I may take a crack at it on Sunday - I will take lots of pictures... not looking forward to that queasy feeling of putting a drill bit through the deck on that first hole!
For sure put a "stop" on your drill bit - masking tape works fine - so you only drill thru the top skin.

Yeah is nerve racking and very counterintuitive, good luck.

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