Go Back  The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum > BOATING FORUMS > Boating and Boat Show Photos
Reload this Page >

1984 Albemarle 24 Stringer and deck restoration project

Notices
Like Tree2Likes

1984 Albemarle 24 Stringer and deck restoration project

Reply

Old 10-16-2018, 12:50 PM
  #1  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default 1984 Albemarle 24 Stringer and deck restoration project

Well, this is my first thread here on THT, and it's going to be a long one. Back in June I purchased a 1984 Albemarle 24, with 5.7 GM Indmar engine with around 300hrs. Overall, the boat was in great shape, but had the soft spot on the deck, and one of the previous owners had removed the teak strips and slapped a ton of automotive body filler in the channels. I think this was done around 3 years ago, and as you can guess, when I purchased the boat, I knew this could be an issue, but due to the price, I wasn't to worried about it. I also knew there could be some stringer issues due to the age of the boat alone. So, my wife and I enjoyed the boat over the summer, and when Florance came last month, I pulled it home, and figured I would see if the body filler would come out with a wood chisel as it had already started seam cracking in several places...and it did for the most part. I also wanted to tackle the soft spot in the deck, check the fuel tank, and stringers while I was inside. Well, once the deck was cut, I saw the extent of the deck support system, and realized, there was some work to do. Luckily, I have been around boats my whole life, growing up in Edenton. Doug Layton at Laytons Custom Boatworks (His dad, Carlton was at Albemarle when I was growing up...I even got to take the very first test rides in the outboard versions of the 24 and 27 in Hatteras at Scotty Harrells house) has been a good friend of mine since I was around 10 years old, so I showed him some pics and asked his opinion. He told me the hull is strong enough to leave the stringers, but if it was him, he would redo all the stringers. With him and Carlton's knowledge..I know that ment tear the boat down and get it done. Since I do not have access to pull the deck like they do, I am doing this project in Phases. Doug also told me that now that I know the stringers are bad, I have to disclose this info, which is something I actually never knew, but would have done that anyways. Definitely the right thing to do. My wife and I love this boat, and have no interest in selling it any time soon, so this project is mainly for us to enjoy, and make the boat more fish-able, and cruise-able.

Phase 1 will be:
-This will affect from the cabin divider back to the transom, skipping the engine well stringers.
-Pull the deck liner, and junk it. Too heavy, and not in the best of shape due to the body filler, and soft spot.
-Replace the fuel tank as it shows signs of near failure
-Gunnel liners were originally going to be integrated into a new deck, but due to their tremendous weight, they are now being removed and junked. I am going to do like Hatterasman (Albemarle Hull #33 Project here on THT), and fair in the gunnels.
-All new ply stringers will be installed. I will widen the engine well 3" on each side to make for easier access to the engine and its components.
-New fuel tank has been ordered. 122 gallon, tar coal epoxy coated. All new wiring for sending unit, and hoses will be added.
- Check and redo wiring as needed. New Perko battery switch. Repair and rewire raw water wash down, replace starter and alternator, etc.
-New decks will be put down.
-New side console will be made replacing the original.
-Modify drivers console with new lower section, fair in.
-New deck fish boxes, completely faired into gunnel and deck, to give a factory look, will be made and installed.
-Gunnels and consoles will be gel coated, then deck will be gel coated with non skid
-New Engine well box will be made, and gel coated.
-I am sure other things will come up during this phase of the build, and I will add that info as it comes along.


Phase 2 will be:
-I may pull the engine next year, or when deemed needed, and at that time, I will remove and replace the engine mount stringer, which will be full accessable with the way I am redoing the deck system in phase 1.
-New bilge paint will also be added at that point.

Phase 3, if needed:
-I am not worried about it, nor do I feel they are rotten, but there are are a couple 3/4" ply stringers that run from the cabin wall forward. There is really no reason for those to be damaged, but I may check them down the road, and if I can get to them, I will replace them if I can get to them. Structurally, it highly doubt they do much, as this hull is over 1" thick and they are so short. They would be hard to get to due to the fiberglass liner in that area. Maybe a sister stringer will, be added if needed. We will see.

So, here goes. Here is the boat:
MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 12:51 PM
  #2  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

Apparently I have to have 10 posts before I can add pics..So here is number 10..
MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 12:52 PM
  #3  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default




Docked up at Phillips Seafood in Swansboro, when the boat calls home:

Lets see if it works now...
Shoresscow likes this.
MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 12:54 PM
  #4  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

Body filler coming off the channels...Don't do this to your boat!


MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 12:55 PM
  #5  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

Center deck above the fuel tank coming off:



MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 12:57 PM
  #6  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

Rot found, and Starboard deck cut around the perimeter to see the rest of the deck support system:




MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 01:05 PM
  #7  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

When I first decided to replace the stringers, I made a decision that I would leave the original gunnel liners, raise the deck system, and put the new deck down on top of a lip around the perimeter that I left. My goal was to minimize disturbance, and raise the deck about 3/4" to help keep water off of the floor when standing in the back corner. After reviewing Hatterasman's rebuild project closer, I decided to remove the gunnel liner, and see how much it weighed. I suspect that section weighs over 100lbs per side by them selfs, the deck liner on the starboard side is at least 120lbs, and the deck above the fuel tank has to be 140lbs as I could barely move it by myself. So those liner parts alone are in the 580lb range, maybe more. Not to mention the rotten wood was completely water saturated in the stringers, as seen in a few more posts. With all this extra weight, it is no wonder the scuppers would wet my feet in the back corner. It quickly became apparent, that tearing this boat down was the right choice, and may ultimately reduce weight, or at least offset the fishbox additions. Here are some pics before the gunnel liner was removed, showing my original thought process, which I am glad I steered away from.




MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 01:09 PM
  #8  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

I also at this time, decided to cut the outer wall off of the stringer, to get access. This is where i found the original 8 1/2" tall, 1 1/2" wide and 8'5" long solid wood beam, was now nothing more than a handful of dirt, that easily broke free of the original glass encapsulation. My plan is to leave the inner wall near the fuel tank, and "reload" the stringer slot with new 3/4" marine ply layers, encapsulated in resin, and mat, then 1708 cloth on the outside. Here are some pics:







MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 01:15 PM
  #9  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

As you can see, the fuel tank has a bad look to it in spots, and I originally cleaned the top, and in person felt it wasn't that bad..Then Doug asked me if I needed a fuel tank, that he could get one from his tank builder. I said..you think I need one? He said Mike, there is no way I would do all that work, and put a 34 year old tank back in that boat. At first, I didn't want to spend the money, but he talked me in to it....I removed the tank completely last night, and it had a lot of severe pitting where the neoprene rubber supported the tank and didn't get good air flow. The new tank should reduce any worry of problems for as long as we own the boat. Once the tank was pulled last night, i did some cleaning, and was happy to see the fuel tank support panel below the tank was not rotten. They must have glassed it into the hull separate from the rest of the stringer system. It was solid, and I had no want, nor need to replace this..luckily!



MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2018, 01:19 PM
  #10  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

These pics are after the gunnel liner was removed, fuel tank removed, and some more cleaning done to the glass, in preparations for the rest of the tear down, and rebuild. I am trying to keep all the rotten wood that gets removed immediately bagged, taken out of the hull, and clean the glass. Doing this really helps you see certain areas of damage you might mis if you leave the rot laying all over. I will post more pics as I continue. Next up is removing the port side deck liner and gunnel liner portions, then more deck support wood and glass will be cut out or opened up to allow new wood to be installed. Slow process, but this is around 2 weeks of work in these pics, just a couple hours a night.





These pics are after the gunnel liner was removed, fuel tank removed, and some more cleaning done to the glass, in preperations for the rest of the tear down, and rebuild. I am trying to keep all the rotten wood that gets removed immediately bagged, taken out of the hull, and clean the glass. Doing this really helps you see certain areas of damage you might mis if you leave the rot laying all over. I will post more pics as I continue. Next up is removing the port side deck liner and gunnel liner portions, then more deck support wood and glass will be cut out or opened up to allow new wood to be installed. Slow process, but this is around 2 weeks of work in these pics, just a couple hours a night.
casaleenie likes this.
MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 09:40 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: richmond va usa
Posts: 696
Default

Great progress they come apart quick but slowly go back together if your cabin bulkhead needs repair that's when you can slide cabin liner out
donald/tri-again is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2018, 08:24 AM
  #12  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

Now that you said that, you give me a great idea, because you are right, when I remove that bulkhead, I might be able to get the fiberglass tray out, exposing the front 3/4" ply stringers. I will have to see if I can make that happen. I will have more pics soon, I have been removing the port side deck and gunnel liner this week, and got the port side stringer out last night. While it was not a total loss like the starboard side, it was severely rotten, but did come out mostly whole. I am glad this stuff is being removed from the boat. It will be a good feeling knowing the boat is solid 50 miles offshore! More pics soon, thanks for putting a light bulb on in my head! haha
MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2018, 09:30 AM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: richmond va usa
Posts: 696
Default

Even if bulkhead isn't damaged at the extent your going it would be worth cutting a section out to pull cabin liner . We found rot up fwd under it
we foamed all the voids under the liner also
donald/tri-again is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2018, 11:51 AM
  #14  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

What kind of foam did you add? Im sure it was urethane 2 part, but have you found any at a reasonable price? Thanks for your help! I got the port stringer out over the weekend, and finished cutting the 2 main stringers. Now I have to do some ply laminating, and bond them into the hull. More pics soon..was a busy weekend! Mike
MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2018, 07:47 AM
  #15  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 19
Default

I consider you a "National Treasure" for accomplishing what you did on that boat. I have no skills in that regard....
casaleenie is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2018, 08:24 AM
  #16  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

Doing what I have too, and what I want too. I have a vision of what I want, just need to keep moving forward. I got the old main stringers out on both sides, and got the new stringers cut. They are going to be laminated tonight, and prepped for installation. Then the deck support ply will be cut out, and recreated. Little at a time. It started getting cold here now too, which stinks...slows things down. Here is the deck as of last night. I am really trying to be sure of what I want done before the gluing begins! More soon, Mike














MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2018, 06:09 AM
  #17  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 36
Default

Well, I didn't get both sides laminated, but got the starboard side done. Marine ply, 3/4 oz mat, Marine ply, 3/4 oz mat, then the taller deck support Marine ply layer. Stainless screws hold the assembly together. The outside will get sanded again before being bonded to the hull. I am going to laminate the port side tonight.





MLBoatworks is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2018, 09:30 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,662
Default

Hey that boat looks familiar.

I
dell30rb is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2018, 09:47 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,662
Default

It sounds like it has changed hands since I sold it. I enjoyed it.. took it out to the gulfstream many times, even trailered it down to FL and went over to Bimini for a week. Sold it cause I was just tired of doing the trailer thing. I worked more on the trailer than I did on the boat it felt like... (converted to bunks, brakes, bearings, replaced leaf springs, changed out dead bearings on the side of the road..etc)

If there are any questions you have on component times let me know. The alternator (you note to replace in the OP) was replaced may 2016. The manifolds/risers, water pump and hoses were replaced at the beginning of the season 2015. Bellows and drive U-Joints replaced 2015. rebuilt trim cylinders 2016. Fuel pump 2016 (it crapped out in the bahamas and fortunately I had a spare) I kept a detailed log. I last pulled and greased the prop hubs in 2016. Batteries 2016. Trailer brakes spring 2016

Last edited by dell30rb; 10-24-2018 at 09:57 PM.
dell30rb is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2018, 10:14 AM
  #20  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 15
Default

Mike
Keep up the great work. Enjoying your rebuild thread.
John
hogbare is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: