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1984 Albemarle 24 Stringer and deck restoration project

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1984 Albemarle 24 Stringer and deck restoration project

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Old 10-26-2018, 11:28 AM
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Yep, its your old boat Dell30rb. I bought it from Scott. I was the other guy that came down and test drove it when you sold it to him. He picked up a Carolina Classic 25, and offered this one to me for a great price. I knew it would need work, maybe not this much, but I am getting to do what I want at this point.

Thanks hogbare.

Just some history of me, I am a Cadd Designer and GIS Tech at a civil firm, and I own an RC Boat business I do on the side, fiberglass and laser cut wood race boat kits, ML Boatworks. So while I am new to rebuilding a full size boat, I have done a lot of glass work over the years in the boats I make. Here are some photos of ones I made from my molds:










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Old 10-26-2018, 11:41 AM
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Now, back to the Albemarle rebuild. I got one of the stringers glassed this week, and the other is ready, but I had to sidetrack and finish some customers rc boat kit orders. I also bought a new shop vac to handle all the rotten wood down in the bilge. Got that all cleaned out, and started doing some steering cable/ helm research. I noticed mine wanted to walk if I took my hand off the wheel, so I wanted to switch to a non feedback helm setup. The original system is a Seastar "The Rack" system, 17' long cable, and uses the SSC13417 cable, and their standard back mount helm. So after researching, I determined their NFB rack helm uses the same cable as the non NFB setup, so I feel comfortable switching and ending up with the correct system! So, I am going to order the Seastar SS15117 system, which has the SH5230P NFB helm, and a new SSC13417 cable. I am also going to get a Seastar MT-3 top mount engine control as well. Mine is still the original control. Another thing, is all new gauges as well. Trying to decide between Gaffrig or Livorsi..any thoughts??? Here are some pics of the boat progress.




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Old 10-26-2018, 04:02 PM
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Yep, its your old boat Dell30rb. I bought it from Scott. I was the other guy that came down and test drove it when you sold it to him. He picked up a Carolina Classic 25, and offered this one to me for a great price. I knew it would need work, maybe not this much, but I am getting to do what I want at this point.
Nice to see its getting new life. BTW if you ever need engine/drive work done I always took it to ed's marine in grimesland NC. He knows these penta drives really well and I always left feeling I should be paying him more.
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Old 10-27-2018, 01:40 PM
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Very impressed by your abilities! On a 1 - 10 scale I rate you a 10 whereas I am about 1.2. I am interested in an Albe as my next boat and pretty surprised by the stringers being so thin, I have heard that Albe's are very well built boats but in my novice opinion those stringers look puny.

I have an older Baha hardtop and Baha's are known for stringer rot but I love the way they are laid out and how they ride in rough water so when I found one that had all of the stringers/structure rebuilt I bought the boat. I don't have pictures of the rebuilt structure but the shop that does work on my boat said the rebuild was built like a brick $hithouse. In fact they thought it was overbuilt but I can't see how that is a bad thing.

I will get some pictures when I get the boat prepped to be pulled out for the season. I'm sure the THT experts will tell me what an awful rebuild job and that my boat is a POS but whatever. I have tagged this thread in my favorites so I will be keeping tabs on your progress. So far I am very impressed.
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Old 10-28-2018, 04:49 PM
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Divider wall between the cabin and deck has been made and fitted, then the backside laminated with 1708 biax fabric. Once installed, more will be used on the deck side, and more layers around the puter permiter. The port side stringer also got laminated this weekend, so both main stringers are now ready for installation.



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Old 10-28-2018, 04:53 PM
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Thanks Russ, this whole thing is a first time process for me. I am just trying to be sure it is structurally sound, even if it takes a little bit of time! I am hoping these build pics will give others at least some direction and motivate them!
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Old 10-28-2018, 06:15 PM
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sorry for derail, but I have a 40" 1980's R/C Westcoast with a nitro K&B .45cc with Tuned pipe, octura and prather hardware painted by myself in Imron. The engine has never seen gas. Futaba 72.240? freq IIRC... very fast in those days with an Italian OPS .40cc...
Love what you do with your R/C things... really cool...
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Old 10-28-2018, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MLBoatworks View Post
Thanks Russ, this whole thing is a first time process for me. I am just trying to be sure it is structurally sound, even if it takes a little bit of time! I am hoping these build pics will give others at least some direction and motivate them!
Curious why you used wood instead of something like Divinicell or other wood substitute?
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by combi_40 View Post
sorry for derail, but I have a 40" 1980's R/C Westcoast with a nitro K&B .45cc with Tuned pipe, octura and prather hardware painted by myself in Imron. The engine has never seen gas. Futaba 72.240? freq IIRC... very fast in those days with an Italian OPS .40cc...
Love what you do with your R/C things... really cool...
Cool, post some pics! I enjoy it, and the designs have really done well in competitions over the years!
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Old 10-29-2018, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by RussH View Post
Curious why you used wood instead of something like Divinicell or other wood substitute?

The bottom line..cost. This is a budget rebuild for me. I didn't invest a huge amount in the boat, so putting some money into it, to make the total cost spent comparable to other used Albemarles on the market is key. Using those synthetic materials, from what I have seen, would cost me around 3 times as much. I feel I can go further with this project for much less money, and end up with a boat that is just as good. Another thing, is before I started this project, I dumped a lot of money in all new rods and reels, tackle, Raymarine Color HD radome and Axiom 9, two Standard Horizon VHF's, etc, etc...So, when this all came up, I decided to do it the best way I can for the best cost.

The key is making sure every single piece you install is fully encapsulated in resin. The original build did not do this, and that is the only reason I am in here doing this now. Had they isolated off each forward to aft vs crossmember intersections with cloth and resin, non of this would have happened. I also know if I mess up with a panel, I can cut another one for minimal cost. Cutting a piece of Coosa wrong is an expensive mistake! Lastly, after doing a lot of reading from various posters here, I am not sold on Coosa. I also read how it was made, and that makes me very skeptical on the material long term. Will we see delamination, or core failure 30 years from now in boats using Coosa???? Maybe, maybe not! Time will tell.
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Old 10-29-2018, 05:43 PM
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Here is my boat with stringer, engine mount replacement. I am no expert but the repair shop that replaced my prop shaft said the rebuild was impressive and actually overbuilt in their opinion. In my opinion overbuilt is good! 👍


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Old 10-30-2018, 09:31 AM
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Looks good Russ. That is some thick woven! What is that 48 ounce cloth?

Well, little under the weather right now, but i wanted to get this cabin divider panel installed as it was a relatively warm day. First, everything was sanded. While it doesn't look clean, it was cleaned very well with Zep industrial degreaser/ cleaner, and it really does a great job. I first added a bunch of cabosil thickened resin in the channel, then placed the panel while that was sill wet. Then added more thickened resin along the seem, then tabbed out the panel with 1708 cloth. Once that started setting, I added a full panel and overlap of 1708 to cover the whole upper and lower panels surface. As soon as I get everything out of the cabin, I am going to tab in the back side of the panel. No need to worry with it right now, as it is structurally set. I can now prep the slot the main stringer will sit in, and bond those in. Should be this week. After than, the divider panel between the fuel tank and the engine box will be made, and set. Things will hopefully start speeding up!







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Old 11-02-2018, 05:42 PM
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Following. I have a albemarle Hull in the same condition in eastern nc debating to sell it cheap or follow your lead
keep the pix flowing bud
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Old 11-02-2018, 05:51 PM
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What year is your Albemarle? Pics?
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Old 11-04-2018, 05:03 PM
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Default 500 bucks with the trailer if anyone wants a project



1987..stripped down ready to restore

Last edited by 757whaler; 11-04-2018 at 05:30 PM. Reason: Ooops
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Old 11-04-2018, 08:43 PM
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PM sent. Thanks, Mike
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Old 11-08-2018, 05:53 AM
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Well, i am finally putting stringers in. Every time I felt I was close to putting them in, I would decide to replace, or remove something that might potentially be in the way as this rebuild progresses. The cabin wall was glass per the pictures above, then I added a deck support plate along the cabin wall, which doubled as a way to be sure the stringers were both level with each other so the deck will say flat once installed. I spent hours just staring at the stringers trying to visualize the finished product. I just dont want to have to cut out wood that I just put in as this progresses. So, last night, I cut out the mid section of the front of the engine box, and spent some time looking at the oil pan, and the underside of the block. I have some corrosion around the oil pan seal that I need to find a neutralizer to stop the rust, and then repaint. The starter, alternator/ alt brackets, raw water pump bracket, and fuel pump bracket are all going to be removed cleaned, painted, and replaced before that engine box wall is replaced. I might as well do it now, while it is easy to get too. I have a replacement starter already, and going to replace the alternator and fuel pump while it's out. No need not too. I don't plan on pulling the engine any time soon due to low hours. The risers and manifolds are also going to be removed, checked, and if they look sketchy, they are getting replaced too. This boat will be fished off Morehead City, so I don't care to risk it. Anyways, with all that said (rambling), I was able to check the height of both stringers, adjust as needed, and got the port side bonded in last night. Talk about back breaking work, but luckily, I decided to buy a 4" paint roller for household use, and instead of purchasing the 4" rollers, picked up the standard 9", and cut them down to size. Saves a lot of money. That roller was the trick. The 1708 is so thick, a 2" chip brush would take way to long to wet the cloth. With that roller, you can add so much material at one time, it forces the resin through the cloth and mat, and into the wood. I would work it it, let it penetrate the CSM layer, and break down the binders for a few minutes, then come back to that spot and really work in the resin. Very happy with the results. So, here are some pics from this weeks work.






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Old 11-08-2018, 05:54 AM
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one more that wouldn't load in the last batch...

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Old 11-09-2018, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 757whaler View Post


1987..stripped down ready to restore
You didn't have a yellow formula a few years ago by any chance did you?
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Old 11-10-2018, 02:31 PM
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Starboard stringer is in! Finally feeling accomplished. I think things will move a little faster now.



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