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Old 06-24-2016, 08:19 AM   #1
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Default 1987 20' Privateer refit

1987 Privateer 20' Roamer Skiff.

On the last page you will see the start of the refit. My first time, and with the help of some of these great members I've got some great guidance.

This will be a penny pinching rebuild. I will keep a documented tally and share at the end.

Last edited by slickcav; 03-12-2017 at 09:02 AM. Reason: Title
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:49 AM   #2
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I would tear the deck out and go super lightweight carbon core. Maybe half inch thick.

Try to get the boat to be self bailing. Leave the foam out. And maybe raise the stringers two inches and attach floor to them Use raka epoxy for budget stuff. Rustoleum topside paint is great, mix it with fine beach sand and roll on.
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:59 AM   #3
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Sorry I forgot to stress the budget minded side of the rebuild. I want to do this on a tight budget. Which is why I am going with wood. She self bails now. And with foam gone I am sure I will lose even more weight.

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I would tear the deck out and go super lightweight carbon core. Maybe half inch thick.

Try to get the boat to be self bailing. Leave the foam out. And maybe raise the stringers two inches and attach floor to them Use raka epoxy for budget stuff. Rustoleum topside paint is great, mix it with fine beach sand and roll on.
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:36 AM   #4
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As it relates to foam, you may want to consider if the foam is part of the structural support between a hull that may be thin or if the hull thickness will allow for the hull to do without it. Also when you get the deck out, check and see if there are any thwarts in the bilge between the stringers and on the outside between the chines to the stringers. You may need to consider adding some if you remove the foam on the outside of the stringers, which I take is in the original hull.
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:43 AM   #5
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Here is a documented refit I have spent some time looking at


http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-outdoor-photos/621113-1979-privateer-20ft-roamer-skiff-rebuild.html
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Old 06-24-2016, 12:37 PM   #6
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Nice project boat! I documented a good part of my rebuild back in 2007 on the classicmako site...not quite the same model Privateer, but you may get some ideas from it...for example, you'll see that "normal" 3/4" plywood was used for the deck, and has held up just fine for 9 years at this point...all about the glass.

http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.a...&SearchTerms=P

Good luck!

Dave
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Old 06-25-2016, 04:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SweetD View Post
Nice project boat! I documented a good part of my rebuild back in 2007 on the classicmako site...not quite the same model Privateer, but you may get some ideas from it...for example, you'll see that "normal" 3/4" plywood was used for the deck, and has held up just fine for 9 years at this point...all about the glass.

http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.a...&SearchTerms=P

Good luck!

Dave
Thanks for the post! will check it out.


just simplified and updated my thread with more concrete plan and materials. How many gallons of epoxy would I be needing? 10?
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Old 06-25-2016, 05:20 AM   #8
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Don't waste your money on resin to put chop matt on the back side of your deck wood. If you want to glass it, find some finish cloth and use it, even though you have the matt. It will use way too much epoxy. Order in some Ebond from Florida and you will save tons of bucks from most brands off the shelf. With shipping, the three gallon kits averages out around 33 bucks a gallon.
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Old 06-25-2016, 05:48 AM   #9
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just simplified and updated my thread with more concrete plan and materials.Name:  34.gif
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scratchnsaw View Post
Don't waste your money on resin to put chop matt on the back side of your deck wood. If you want to glass it, find some finish cloth and use it, even though you have the matt. It will use way too much epoxy. Order in some Ebond from Florida and you will save tons of bucks from most brands off the shelf. With shipping, the three gallon kits averages out around 33 bucks a gallon.


Thanks scratch. So no chop mat at all, updated original posting again just to clear up the cloudiness. Epoxy/Finish cloth on the underside. Should I 1708 the topsides prior to setting in the boat? Then epoxy fillet the joints, then 1708 tabbing then finish cloth, or set the floor, do the fillets, 1708 tabbing, then 1708 entire floor up to the tabbing, then finish cloth? Is there a name for finish cloth or weight or a link of the cloth you would suggest?

Last edited by slickcav; 06-25-2016 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:04 AM   #11
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That era privateer has the floor nailed into the tops of the stringers with galvanized nails. When the deck gets soft the nails rust out and let water/condensation into the stringers and bulkheads.... I know you are planning on a simple deck replacement, you might get lucky and find that's all it needs. However, I wouldn;t start ordering materials until the deck is out and you can see exactly what needs to be done. A privateer from that timeframe that just needs a deck is a rarity.
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:59 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twitch View Post
That era privateer has the floor nailed into the tops of the stringers with galvanized nails. When the deck gets soft the nails rust out and let water/condensation into the stringers and bulkheads.... I know you are planning on a simple deck replacement, you might get lucky and find that's all it needs. However, I wouldn;t start ordering materials until the deck is out and you can see exactly what needs to be done. A privateer from that timeframe that just needs a deck is a rarity.
Good to know. Thank you for that information. I was just going to start to get a supply list together, and where I would be ordering it from. In the event the stringers are rotten, what would you suggest for basic budget minded material for the replacement?
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Old 06-26-2016, 08:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickcav View Post
Good to know. Thank you for that information. I was just going to start to get a supply list together, and where I would be ordering it from. In the event the stringers are rotten, what would you suggest for basic budget minded material for the replacement?
If budget is top priority, fir marine ply for stringers and transom is hard to beat price wise. Hopefully your stringers and transom are in good shape.
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Old 06-27-2016, 03:47 AM   #14
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I agree with twitch, the stringers are most likely rotten.

If you are going to build this boat on a budget why not use polyester resin? If i were going to build it i would use marine plywood and polyester resin. If the plywood you are looking at constructed with phenolic glue dont use it.

Here is my suggestion for materials,

-two layers 3/4" marine ply for the transom
-3/4" marine ply on the stringers
-1/2" marine ply on the deck
- appx. 30 gal of resin
use polyester resin and glass in the stringers as well as the bottom and topside of the deck.
You may want to pickup a bucket of polybond b39 to use for your fillets on the stringers and deck, it will save a lot of resin (fillets eat up resin).

Great project, im looking forward to seeing it come together!

On a side note here, scratch said you can get epoxy for about $33 a gallon in three gallon kits. Thats almost the same price as polyester resin. If you can get it for the same price as polyester i think its a no brainer to go with epoxy.

Edit- With polyester resin 1708 fiberglass would be best but you can use a combination of csm and woven roven if it will save you any money. I suggest 1oz csm and 18oz roven.

Last edited by surv; 06-27-2016 at 06:45 AM. Reason: Add info.
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:19 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scratchnsaw View Post
Ebond from Florida and you will save tons of bucks from most brands off the shelf. With shipping, the three gallon kits averages out around 33 bucks a gallon.

Emailed ebond to clarify which epoxy to order and received "I am not familiar with the actual boat building..
If you need an epoxy to seal the wood, most builders use 106 C3 & C2 Clear polyamide epoxy coating. This is not 100% epoxy but penetrates and seals the wood.
For glassing and bonding our most popular system is the 1285."


Scratch do you know which # would fit my application for ebond?
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Old 06-27-2016, 08:36 AM   #16
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5lb density foam is enough for a deck coosa is very heavy. for example you can hang an outboard on 12 lb foam core, , plywood installed properly is ok too,, , technical is better and buying expensive material and using it poorly,, hence what Scratch is saying as well . , looks like a cool project
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:52 PM   #17
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Although I agree that your stringers are more than likely at least somewhat soft or rotten, believe it or not, the stringers and transom in my boat (all original) were fine. And I did have the deck nailed to the stringers with galvanized nails, which at the time I thought was crazy! But that's how they did it...
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:16 PM   #18
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If its possible you may want to hold off for a little while and get some use out of it this summer. Replacing the floor is going to take some time and even more if you need to replace the stringers and transom. I have been working on mine for 6 months now and still don't have the floor down.

Maybe you could just clean the soft area off with a grinder and put a few layers of glass down so its strong enough to walk on and call it good for the summer. I'm not trying to discourage you i just dont want to see you tear it apart before you know how much time its going to take fixing it.

You may want to look into honeycomb material for your deck. Its very light and not much difference in price than 3/4" marine ply.
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:49 PM   #19
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Been using it and plan to fish and crab all summer and fall with it. It is honestly ok for the following season as well in my eyes. Hope to cut into it this winter if not it'll be the following. The more and more I think about it the more wild ideas I get which drives the budget up of course.



Quote:
Originally Posted by surv View Post
If its possible you may want to hold off for a little while and get some use out of it this summer. Replacing the floor is going to take some time and even more if you need to replace the stringers and transom. I have been working on mine for 6 months now and still don't have the floor down.

Maybe you could just clean the soft area off with a grinder and put a few layers of glass down so its strong enough to walk on and call it good for the summer. I'm not trying to discourage you i just dont want to see you tear it apart before you know how much time its going to take fixing it.

You may want to look into honeycomb material for your deck. Its very light and not much difference in price than 3/4" marine ply.
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:16 PM   #20
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Getting the itch to cut into old girl. Did some work over the summer cleaning her up on the outside..

Decided on Meranti BS6566 1/2" for the floor. Other than that not going to know what I got going on until she comes up! I'm nervous about doing the cap and getting it set the right way when I work on it so that it goes back on the way it came off. Privateer sells them for 1200$ or so, but that's not in the budget lol.

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