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Building a 24' plywood on frame Center Console

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Building a 24' plywood on frame Center Console

Old 02-22-2021, 10:44 AM
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Tandem will be fine. Dad had a 2000 27 Sport Pro-Line and only ever had a tandem axle Continental. It was plenty. Only ever problem was a tire towing it from here in the Keys to the Plant City area. Tire blowouts happen on any trailer.
Old 02-22-2021, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by OldPete View Post
I just went through that whole thread. Dude. You're amazing. Never built a boat? Could have fooled me! I'd be impressed if I could built a little 14' . That right there is awesome!
I just found this thread also. Very impressive work.

Never owned a boat? You do now.
Old 02-22-2021, 12:22 PM
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Thanks, fellas.

I believe I'm ready for the high build primer. Here's the current status and a little update.

For the lift strakes I ripped and joined 1" x 4" pieces of sapele, much like I did originally with the chine strakes. It worked much better this time though. The pieces were originally milled so they were at an 18.5 degree angle, then I shaped them with the power planer so the angle more closely matched the hull angle as it came forward. After dry fitting, we epoxied them into place as well as used #8 silicon bronze screws (from the inside) every 6" or so. Then I covered them with thin epoxy to hopefully keep water from penetrating. Then I added a layer of thickened epoxy (thickened with the fairing compound) to them to give them some added protection. Then sanded and sanded some more. I should add that the front 6-7 feet of the hull at the sheer isn't trimmed flush quite yet. It was too difficult laying on the ground, keeping a steady line. It'll be finalized after the flip.




Last edited by YeahYeah; 02-22-2021 at 05:24 PM.
Old 02-22-2021, 02:52 PM
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Beautiful lines on that boat. You may have covered this earlier, but what kind of power do you project using. Makes me wish I was younger and maybe I could embark on this type of adventure.
Buck
Old 02-22-2021, 05:22 PM
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I'm still trying to decide on power. Definitely outboard on bracket. 90% sure it's going to be twins. I'm thinking twin 150s (I hope), or twin 115s. If single, a 250 should be more than enough power.

and thank you
Old 02-22-2021, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by YeahYeah View Post
I'm still trying to decide on power. Definitely outboard on bracket. 90% sure it's going to be twins. I'm thinking twin 150s (I hope), or twin 115s. If single, a 250 should be more than enough power.

and thank you
Your work continues to impress!

But I think your're seriously underscoring the efficiency of that hull and it will be considerably lighter than a comparable FRG boat - it should fly with a single 200 and will have much better trim than with heavier options. If you wanted to err on the side of "enough" a new 225 Merc could be worth a look or if you're hung on twins then 2 x 115.


Old 02-23-2021, 05:04 AM
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The lifting strakes look great! Nice work
Old 02-23-2021, 07:19 AM
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Thanks, surv, and thanks HTJ.

HTJ, could you (or anyone really) explain this ..."will have much better trim than with heavier options"? I don't understand what you're telling me here. (I do understand what trimming a motor is).
Old 02-23-2021, 07:42 AM
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I think he means it won't be as stern heavy with a single as with twins, and need less tab or trimming down on the engines to lower the bow when running.
Old 02-23-2021, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bills106 View Post
I think he means it won't be as stern heavy with a single as with twins, and need less tab or trimming down on the engines to lower the bow when running.
Hi bills at what point does the effect of running with twins i.e. no torquing to one direction based upon the prop with a single engine outweigh the weight benefits of just having a single engine? Wouldn't running with twins at the highest hp available for the maximum amount of weight this boat can carry on the transom offset the additional weight once it gets on plane? And then the higher hp of twin engines allow it to get on plane quicker? I would think that having more HP on the back would allow the thrust to offset the additional weight?

I'm of the opinion more is better!
Old 02-23-2021, 09:49 AM
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I've always been a fan of Tim the Toolman too! I've never done multiple tests on the same hull to qualify the single vs. twin performance differences but I would take it as given more horseys will at some point offset whatever additional weight twins add. Most people seem more concerned with equal horsepower when comparing and I would think it's almost or close to a wash, the additional weight being offset by the drag of a second lower unit. I don't know that for a fact though. Then there is the redundancy/reliability issue but my personal opinion it is modern engines are so much better than before it really isn't that important anymore.

If it were me, on a 22 like YeahYeah is building I'd probably be leaning towards a 350 Verado 6. Yes, a 250 might be enough for most times but I think it would be working pretty hard especially if you've got a big crew onboard. That would not be a concern with a 350!
Old 02-23-2021, 10:41 AM
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Finances are becoming a big concern for me in the past few weeks as I've been getting quotes for various things. Costs have already been more than I anticipated (shipping costs are killing me! Most everything is coming from the east coast). Paint products alone will be about $2,000. I wouldn't have ever imagined that. Trailers? Florida has them in abundance for nearly half price. I've been getting quoted $6,000, $7,000, $8,600 for a tandem trailer for this boat. Most of those are galvanized, not aluminum.

Here's what I know (which isn't much) about others that have built this boat. A few have gone with an inboard or I/O, no help there. One gent changed the build to a cabin style and hung twin Merc 115s. He says it powers the boat to 40 mph with 4 people and smooth water. He boats in the Philippines. Two others have hung a single 150 and said "cruise at 30, tops at 50". But I believe they have 22' boats (mine is 24) and from looking at their pictures look to be boating on lakes (no t-top, small console, smooth water), likely with fewer passengers. In all likely hood I would imagine they stuck with the single layer of 10oz fiberglass cloth that the plans call for as well. Another fella who's currently building this boat as well (also to plan specs) just went w a Honda 135 hp. I believe he was going to go with a 150 but is also running into expense issues and got a great deal on the Honda.

I have a slew of questions moving forward, a lot have to do with appropriate composite sheet use. I've gleaned just about all my knowledge from reading these forums. I'll post what I'm thinking later. Hopefully, Bill can set me straight. I try to do a single order when I can to save on shipping costs.
Old 02-23-2021, 11:37 AM
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Here’s my plan:

Sole - 1 ½” carbon core w single layer of 1708 on bottom, 2 layers topside. Inserts of carbon core fiber structural foam (28#?) where t-top and leaning post/bait tank attach. Also, ¼” aluminum or glass backing plates (G10?) at attachment points.

Console – ¾” H80 divinycell (epoxied to inside of 3/8” Okoume already built). Carbon core structural foam on face where electronics go. Same inserts/backing plate schedule as sole where t-top attaches. 1708 over, 1 layer inside, 2 outside.

Leaning post / bait tank – ¾” H80 divinycell, 1708 over, 2 layers outside (have to figure out inside w bait tank). Backing plates where it attaches to sole.

T-top – 1” carbon core w carbon core structural foam inserts at attachment points.

Gunwhale – use 1 ½” carbon core leftover from sole w the carbon core structural foam inserts and backing plates for rod holders.

Hatch covers – also 1 ½” carbon core leftover from sole construction.
Old 02-23-2021, 07:15 PM
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Man 1-1/2” is very thick. Are you spaning entire hull?
Old 02-23-2021, 08:41 PM
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I think for the console and leaning post/ bait tank 3/4" H60 is plenty.

For the hatch lids 3/4" H60 should be plenty as well. It may be difficult to build a gutter deep enough to accommodate hatches build with 1 1/2" core.

As far as the floor goes its hard to beat how solid a plywood floor is. 1/2" or 3/4" depending on the span. What does the plans call for on the floor?
Old 02-23-2021, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Daytrip01 View Post
Man 1-1/2” is very thick. Are you spaning entire hull?


Not entirely. The plans call for supports (I believe 1" x 2" or 1" x 3" hardwood, on edge) to run athwartship at every frame, so every 32". That's all the plans call for. (They also call for a 1/2" plywood sole).

That is currently my plan except at the console. There will be a "box" built to support the console and create a step down into the console. The gas tank is supposed to sit between frames 3 and 4, the width of the boat.

I imagine under the bait tank / leaning post I will need to run support between those two supports. Do you think 1" would suffice?

Here's a diagram if this helps.



Old Yesterday, 01:38 AM
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I am very opinionated, and a wood fan so take my "wisdom" with a grain or 3 of salt.

The cost of your proposed divinylcell and other composite bits will readily eclipse what you've spent on the hull proper - I would deep six this train of thought and stick with ply thruout the boat. The cost of the composite bits will never be recovered with the .01 MPG gain you will realize from the weight savings.

Paint - you can put a great paint job on that boat with alklyd enamel for very short money or an outstanding paint job with a single stage urethane for not a lot more - yes the catalyzed urethanes are "better" but knowing your going to keep this girl covered and well maintained.... keep your nickels for the new V-6 Merc and some electronics.

Static trim - how the hull sets at rest

Dynamic trim - running attitude on plane.

Too much weight on the back will bugger up both - the lighter the hull the lighter the motor should be - my old 25' was 3500# basic hull weight and right at 6K on the hoof with 2 x 150 power and my normal load fuel/junk/beer/bait - your boat will be at least 1000# lighter and highly appreciative of less weight on the stern.

Yeah I gots sum opinions

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Old Yesterday, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by surv View Post
I think for the console and leaning post/ bait tank 3/4" H60 is plenty.

For the hatch lids 3/4" H60 should be plenty as well. It may be difficult to build a gutter deep enough to accommodate hatches build with 1 1/2" core.

As far as the floor goes its hard to beat how solid a plywood floor is. 1/2" or 3/4" depending on the span. What does the plans call for on the floor?
Thanks. Accommodating for the gutter really hadn't occurred to me.
Old Yesterday, 07:23 AM
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You guys got me thinking. It's probably more cost effective to put in more supports (perpendicular to the cross members) and go with a thinner sole.
Old Yesterday, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by YeahYeah View Post
Here’s my plan:

Sole - 1 ½” carbon core w single layer of 1708 on bottom, 2 layers topside. Inserts of carbon core fiber structural foam (28#?) where t-top and leaning post/bait tank attach. Also, ¼” aluminum or glass backing plates (G10?) at attachment points.

Console – ¾” H80 divinycell (epoxied to inside of 3/8” Okoume already built). Carbon core structural foam on face where electronics go. Same inserts/backing plate schedule as sole where t-top attaches. 1708 over, 1 layer inside, 2 outside.

Leaning post / bait tank – ¾” H80 divinycell, 1708 over, 2 layers outside (have to figure out inside w bait tank). Backing plates where it attaches to sole.

T-top – 1” carbon core w carbon core structural foam inserts at attachment points.

Gunwhale – use 1 ½” carbon core leftover from sole w the carbon core structural foam inserts and backing plates for rod holders.

Hatch covers – also 1 ½” carbon core leftover from sole construction.
Forget gluing foam into your plywood, 3/4" H80 by itself is plenty and forever.
Thick covering boards will cause problems with backing plates but you can use the Gemlux screw base with extended threads, very nice hardware all around!
Hatch covers/gutters there's only one option, that's to get with Daytrip01 on here and have him build you sets. Once I saw his and tried them I will never build them by hand again.

Originally Posted by YeahYeah View Post
Thanks. Accommodating for the gutter really hadn't occurred to me.
Originally Posted by YeahYeah View Post
You guys got me thinking. It's probably more cost effective to put in more supports (perpendicular to the cross members) and go with a thinner sole.
One of the nice things about the Carboncore honeycomb is the cost doesn't increase linearly like it does with the foams.

Have you purchased your glass yet? If not, I'd suggest buying 1700 instead of 1708. 1700 doesn't have the chopped mat which isn't necessary with epoxy construction and most times a waste of epoxy and weight. You can do two layers of 1700 with seams offset and end up with the same weight, amount of epoxy used and quite a bit more strength as it's all structural fibers. You also get twice the length of cloth per 200# roll, albeit it is more expensive per pound. I'd say your project will easily use a full roll, if not more. Our "standard" lamination was two layers of 1700 on just about everything (except hull's where one layer was a Kevlar hybrid outside), decks, consoles, boxes, were all 1700. With two layers of 1700 each side your 1-1/2" core will easily span 36" or more, 1" I'd limit the spans to 24" to avoid feeling too "spongy".

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