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Old 08-10-2017, 12:15 PM   #1
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Default Leak Sealer in F350 A/C

My 1999 F350 has a slow leak in the A/C system. A few years ago I got an estimate to repair and was in the $500 range. I elected to simply add Freon when needed which has been about 2 -12oz can per year. But recently I've been adding more.

How effective are the "Leak Sealer" or "Leak Stop" additives that I see in NAPA and Autozone?
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:16 PM   #2
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That stuff is designed to gum up and seal any possible leaks. Imagine what else it will gum up when you put it in your A/C system. Could gum up in the compressor, orifice or drier. Just fix it and be done.

Just like fix a flat. It rarely works.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:22 PM   #3
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We all try it...it has never worked for me
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Old 08-11-2017, 01:17 PM   #4
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it is going to plug up the orific tube then you will have no a/c, then you wont be trying to find a leak so technically yes it will stop the leak, as well as the entire system!

you need to put dye in the system and find the leak first then replace that part
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Old 08-11-2017, 03:38 PM   #5
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As mentioned above, only use dye to find the leak. Then fix it.

As long as adding Freon is temporarily taking care of the issue, the guts of the system are intact and working. If you go adding leakstop, I would plan on replacing all of the major components, or at a minimum having to fully flush them.
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Old 08-11-2017, 06:30 PM   #6
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Don't use that stuff it's nasty it will plug everything else up changing a evap in these trucks is very easy I change them all the time more than likely that's what's leaking and that's where the freon is getting out.If it's a big leak you will smell the freon coming out of the vents when you turn the a/c on.When I do evaps in them I also replace the dryer also and orfice tube and the 1999-2007 trucks the evap is on the outside of the truck so the dash doesn't have to come out.The later year trucks 2008+ the dash will have to be removed to access the evap your truck is a 1999 it's time for s a/c system rebuild if nothing has been replaced evap,dryer,orfice tube compressor and inspect the a/c lines to make sure they are ok and look at the condenser.

Not sure where you live but I have a shop in Clearwater
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Old 08-12-2017, 09:38 AM   #7
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I would spend the $500, don't use the sealer it will make the repair that much more expensive
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Old 08-12-2017, 05:35 PM   #8
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check your Schrader valves for the high and low side to see if they are tight. The tool is $3.99
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:24 PM   #9
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Im with the other guys. Don't use that chit. Fix the leak. If you look closely you'll probably see oil near the leak. Like the other poster said, it could just be the valve ports and super easy just to tighten them up with the tool.
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:44 AM   #10
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What is leaking?
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Old 08-14-2017, 03:47 AM   #11
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Theoretically that stuff only hardens when it comes into contact with air/moisture. I've used it in residential systems a few times but only as a last resort. To my knowledge it works 50% of the time. Yrs ago 2 compressors failed on me (residential system) after a few months with the sealer in there. One was early on when I used my bro in law as a guinea pig. Running while low on refrigerant damages compressors so it's hard to know if the damage was already done before the sealer was injected.

I don't completely trust it and it's better to just repair the leak. The car stuff and the central system stuff is all the same, just less of it is used in cars and small refrigeration systems. It doesn't gum up metering devices unless the leak is at the location of the device. It's a chemical reaction, it has a lower viscosity than refrigerant oil UNTIL it hits moisture.
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