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Random Quote: It is not a fishing trip until you break something or lose something
Any 'tricks' on removing spindles from a torsion axle arm? Been soaking the castle nuts with the PB, but the torsion action likes to work against removal. Next step is go to the 'heat wrench', but concerned that the arms are connected/mounted to some rubber that might not like too much heat. Other than grinding the castles off, any other ideas from those who have been here.....???? Are the spindles a press fit in the mounting arm? If they are this bad will it be another fight to get them out once the castle nuts are gone? Better to bite the bullet and get new axle assemblies?
All depends on what brand of torsion axles you have.
Some arms all welded at torsion shaft and at the spindle.
Some arms are clamped onto a splined torsion shaft but the spindle is welded to the arm.
Some arms are welded to torsion shaft and the spindle has a tapper fit into the arm with a big nut.
Sounds like you have the last style.
You need to stablize the arm with blocking or chain to stop the torsion action.
Then use a six point socket on a breaker bar with a cheater pipe on the BB.
Get it loose, run it out flush with the thread end.
Might PB it some more to get into the tapper.
If I had a "sacrificial" nut laying around, I would put that on the threads instead of the castle nut (flush).
Then get out the 3lb hammer and squarely hit the end of the tappered shaft.
You only have to move it a micro hair before it will release from the tapper.
Or if you have a two jaw puller you can use that instead.
PB it, put the puller on, torque it good and if it does not let go, leave it torqued overnight.
It's a 2003 LoadRite 5400# tandem. Replacement spindle pictures look like a press fit in the arms. Not enough exposed threads to get another nut on. Castle nuts in bad shape as both the 'flats' & 'flanges' are corroded. Only way to get grip is with pipe wrench. No impact wrench in shop. Continuing with a PB soak and maybe some light heat from a handheld BernzoMatic propane bottle. Then onto a grinder to remove the nuts.
Anyone know where to get new axle assemblies reasonably......?
Also, it you don't have an impact wrench you may want to check out the electric ones. I bought one at Lowes a few years ago and it has been a life saver just having it around the house. The one I bought was a Cobalt brand and came in a case with a complete set of Standard (not metric) impact sockets for about $50 or so.
I have lots of air tools that I used ~ 30 years ago as an auto mech. Just don't have the compressor to run them right now (new house and no shop yet). The electric impact wrench suprised me at how well it works. Not quite as good as my old Ingersol Rand, but good enough around the house for sure.
Furgel .... wise decision. I CRC'd the hell of the new ones after I finished the install. It's paid long term dividends in the preservation of the new axles and accociated hardware. Here are some picture post install. Since installing the new axles I've logged over 200 + immeersions in saltwater.
Right after install ..... you can see the liberal use of CRC in these pictures ....
14 months later
4 years later
I reapply CRC once a year just to be safe. It's worth the time and money!
Hey bluewaterpirate, thanks for posting the videos. My wife called me a nerd for watching them, but I just love that stuff. Seeing stuff done makes you realize that there are a lot of DIY projects out there that are fixable at home. Nice work, btw.
You're correct there is a lot you can do for yourself if you can find the time. The trailer project took me a couple of weeks but I learned everything there is to know about my trailer. Was worth all the time and effort! Glad the videos helped you out.