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Old 12-26-2011, 04:13 PM
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Default Trailer brakes won't release in reverse..??

Have Tie Down brand actuator Model 70 I believe.
Trailer is only 6 months old.
Disc brakes on both axles.
Worked the last time we used it, about 6 weeks ago.
Pulled boat out of barn 2 weeks ago and it felt like the brakes were engaging when I put it back up.
Pulled out today to clean up a bit and same thing. I can't even put it back now because of the wet grass around the barn. TV just spins.
Any suggestions??
Thanks to all, Brett
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Old 12-26-2011, 04:24 PM
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Check your backup lights are working, and that the reverse lock out solenoid on the trailer is getting 12V+ when you have it hooked up to the truck and put it in reverse.
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Old 12-26-2011, 04:31 PM
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as mentioned the solenoid is not getting a back up light signal. Also most trailers with surge brakes have a pin you can put in to disable the brakes when not using lights
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Old 12-26-2011, 05:15 PM
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Just one more reason why I don't like surge brakes.....
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Old 12-26-2011, 05:40 PM
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That back up solenoid will be under a cover on the surge actuator. There is a blue wire that feeds it. Make sure that blue wire is getting 12v when the truck is put in reverse. If the back up lights don't come on, it may have blown the fuse to the lights.
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by n3up View Post
Just one more reason why I don't like surge brakes.....
Yeah, suppose your right... Only a few million of 'em in use and running problem free.
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:11 PM
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Pretty common for the back up solenoids to go out.
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Old 12-27-2011, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportfisher236 View Post
surge brakes have a pin you can put in to disable the brakes when not using lights
I always have a pin attached to my hitch just for this reason
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Old 12-27-2011, 05:38 AM
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Just one more reason why I don't like surge brakes.....
It's fine if you don't "like" surge brakes, but you have to have brakes on your trailer if it's over a certain weight. Most people aren't willing to go to the trouble and expense of electric over hydraulic brakes and electric brakes don't really last long when used in water so surge brakes is pretty much all that's left.

For the OP - Make sure your harness is connected, the tow vehicle's backup lights work, and the freebacking solenoid works. If you have someone shift the tow vehicle in and out of reverse (with the ignition on), you should be able to hear it clicking if you put your ear near it.
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:27 AM
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On a Tie Down disc actuator there's a hole on top. Place a pin or screw driver in the hole which will prevent it from being depressed while backing.
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Old 12-27-2011, 07:41 AM
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had the same problem with our trailer, it ended up just being a wire that had been cut
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Old 12-28-2011, 07:13 PM
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What vechicle are you hooked up to? Reason being, my 06 chevy duramax has a separate fuse for the factory installed wire. I just delivered a loadrite with dual brakes and the wheels locked up. Fortunetly, there wa a hole big enough for a screw driver in the actuator assembly to prevent the brakes from locking. Got home and looked at the owners manual, and sure enough, separate fuse for that wire. My backup lights worked the entire time, that was throwing me off.
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:12 PM
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is the grass dry yet ?
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwidman View Post
It's fine if you don't "like" surge brakes, but you have to have brakes on your trailer if it's over a certain weight. Most people aren't willing to go to the trouble and expense of electric over hydraulic brakes and electric brakes don't really last long when used in water so surge brakes is pretty much all that's left.
I'll agree that cost is a factor, especially when retrofitting an old trailer, but for my money the benefits of E/H systems, disc brake E/H systems in particular, should offset some of the costs.

Disc brakes in general, be they surge or E/H activated have better stopping power.
In my opinion, E/H disc brakes combine the best benefits of both systems.

The stopping ability and mechanical simplicity of disc brakes, and the independant control available with electric brakes. It adds up to an optimal combination for me.

An added advantage of electrically activated systems is the ability to work in reverse.
With my setup, the boat is about 1000lbs heavier than my truck. The brake's ability to work in reverse gives me a bit of peace of mind when backing down the ramp.
The ramp I usually use is not particularly steep or slick, but it is good to know that I shouldn't have to worry about the boat dragging me down the hill.....

Just my opinions, and the usual disclaimers apply.....
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:17 PM
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Remember, not all solenoids are bypass, on mine, if I press on the brake pedal, then shift into reverse, the solenoid actually locks the brakes on.
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Old 12-30-2011, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
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Remember, not all solenoids are bypass, on mine, if I press on the brake pedal, then shift into reverse, the solenoid actually locks the brakes on.
Haven't heard of that one, what brands are we talking here?
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3up View Post
I'll agree that cost is a factor, especially when retrofitting an old trailer, but for my money the benefits of E/H systems, disc brake E/H systems in particular, should offset some of the costs.

Disc brakes in general, be they surge or E/H activated have better stopping power.
In my opinion, E/H disc brakes combine the best benefits of both systems.

The stopping ability and mechanical simplicity of disc brakes, and the independant control available with electric brakes. It adds up to an optimal combination for me.

An added advantage of electrically activated systems is the ability to work in reverse.
With my setup, the boat is about 1000lbs heavier than my truck. The brake's ability to work in reverse gives me a bit of peace of mind when backing down the ramp.
The ramp I usually use is not particularly steep or slick, but it is good to know that I shouldn't have to worry about the boat dragging me down the hill.....

Just my opinions, and the usual disclaimers apply.....
I won't argue that, I agree, hydraulic over electric is the best system. It's more expensive and requires a controller in the tow vehicle cab and extra wiring. Most folks aren't going to spend the money.
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:02 AM
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Haven't heard of that one, what brands are we talking here?
It's not a brand, it's a type. It's about $10.00 more for the "good" kind. You can see them both on the Eastern trailer website.
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Old 12-30-2011, 10:45 AM
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I find the if I try to put the truck into reverse when the trailer is on a hill (truck pointing down hill) the brakes will be actuated and I can't ge the to lockout unless I am level. Porbably has to do with the weight of the trailer pushing against the hitch and actuating the brakes.

Its a little bit of a pain for me as I need to back the trailer up a steep slope to park it and if I don't line it up right the first time the brakes will lock up if I take it out of reverse.
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Old 12-30-2011, 11:14 AM
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For the "click impaired", this is the one you want:



http://www.easternmarine.com/tie-dow...olenoid-11253a


This is the one thag gives problems if the brakes are already engaged:



http://www.easternmarine.com/tie-dow...solenoid-81103

Notice that the one on top has a hose to return the pressure to the master cylinder. This releases the brakes regardless of the position of the vehicle or trailer when the solenoid is engaged by the tow vehicle.
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