Slight popping in steering?? - The Hull Truth

vettnman · 03-11-2010, 08:31 PM

I'm looking at some used Tahoes for my wife to use as a daily driver. Came across this '03 that we both liked. It has a few items that need to have something done(brake pads, keyless entry), but one in particular has me scratching my head. When you turn the steering wheel, you can hear a slight popping. There's no restrictions or weakness in the steering, just that slight popping sound. It was suggested to me that it may be a "cvc boot..(Sp?)What do you guys think that may sound like? Overall, I really like the condition of the tahoe, so if it's not that big a deal, I'll probally go ahead and buy it. Let me know what ya'll think....Dave

Joe · 03-11-2010, 08:39 PM

My neighbor had an '04 Tahoe that did that. I think it was the steering linkage--Whatever it was, he got it replaced under warranty.

A Few Dollars · 03-11-2010, 09:23 PM

Big problem in 99 - 04 GM light trucks.

Google intermidiate steering shaft. Plenty of info.

It just needs grease.

It's not a safety issue.

http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic265506.htm

Noise from Steering at Low Speeds #PI00299 - (07/30/2002)
Noise from Steering at Low Speeds
.When servicing the vehicle with the VIN you entered, the following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the described symptoms.

Condition/Concern:
Rattle, noise emanating from the steering column, particularly during low speed parking lot maneuvers.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Verify noise is from stub shaft bearing area.
Replace stub shaft bearing with kit part number 26099860.
Also, a special tool is required to complete the repair. You must use Essential Tool J-45798 to avoid damage to the bearing seal. The repair procedures are available in SI (Service Information) to install the new bearing

Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt In the steering wheel (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly) #00-02-35-003B - (01/24/2003)
Clunking Noise Under Hood and can be felt in the Steering wheel (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

1999-2003 [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]Chevrolet [COLOR=blue !important]Silverado[/color][/color][/color]

2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche

1999-2003 GMC Sierra

2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

2003 [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]HUMMER [COLOR=blue !important]H2[/color][/color][/color]

With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering

This bulletin is being revised to add model years and models and Correction information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003A (Section 02 -- Steering).

Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

Correction

Important
DO NOT REPLACE THE FOLLOWING INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT P/Ns

26085548
26049343
26083324
26088325
15772436
26078079

Remove the intermediate shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the intermediate shaft with a Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419. Follow the service procedure below.

Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.

From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.

From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.

Remove the spacer clip from the end of the intermediate shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Fully extend the shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.

Apply the syringe of grease supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419, into the open end of the shaft. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the shaft and dispense the full content of the syringe.

Insert the plug supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit into the open end of the shaft and finger tighten the wing nut.

Place the plugged end of the shaft on a hard surface and apply pressure to collapse the shaft and dissipate the grease through the shaft.
Remove the plug from the shaft and fully extend the shaft.

Inspect the shaft for a minimum of 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease on the shaft splines.
Repeat steps 10-12 if less than 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease is on shaft splines.
Clean the excess grease off of the shaft splines and around the shaft opening.

Carefully spread apart the spacer clip with a pair of pliers.

Reinstall the spacer clip into the open end of the shaft.

Align the spacer clip with the stakes in the shaft.
Reinstall the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m(35 lb ft).

Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m(37 lb ft).

Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

26098419
Lubrication Kit, Steering Column Intermediate Shaft
1

Lubing your intermediate steering shaft for 1999 to 2004 trucks

nautiduck · 03-11-2010, 09:40 PM

Since everyone automatically knows what it is,. let me ask you a few questions. Is it a 4x4? How many miles are on it? Does it make the noise while moving, or sitting still and turning the wheel back and forth? Does it do it when turning both directions or only one? Is it more pronounced at lowspeed, highspeed, or the same? It could be the steering shaft If its a 4x4, it could also be the CV joint not the boot. Its an easy fix if you do your own work.

Bokat · 03-11-2010, 10:01 PM

This is an interesting thread because I think I have the same problem in an 05' 2500 Duramax. It happened once already and was fixed under warranty under 36,000 mi. It is happening again at 90,000 mi. It is a clunking or rattling sound when making a slow speed right turn while braking. It sounds like it is coming from the firewall area and can sometimes be felt in the steering column. I think when it happened before the dealer had to replace a part.

If I were you I would call a dealer and explain the problem and what you think it is and get an estimate for the repair. You'll know what you're dealing with.

Highflier · 03-11-2010, 11:15 PM

Intermediate steering shaft, needs to be replaced.
Cost around $125 at the dealer so probably a buck or two cheaper elsewhere.
It's not a big deal btw.

vettnman · 03-11-2010, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nautiduck

Since everyone automatically knows what it is,. let me ask you a few questions. Is it a 4x4? How many miles are on it? Does it make the noise while moving, or sitting still and turning the wheel back and forth? Does it do it when turning both directions or only one? Is it more pronounced at lowspeed, highspeed, or the same? It could be the steering shaft If its a 4x4, it could also be the CV joint not the boot. Its an easy fix if you do your own work.

Sounds like a pretty common problem which is interesting because I never had this problem on my previous 2000 tahoe or my 03 Silverado SS. To answer your question, I noticed it when I was making turns in the parking lot at very low speeds or stopped. At highway speeds, i didn't hear it. The truck is a 4wd.Looks like about a $125 -$250 repair.. Thx for the help guys

nautiduck · 03-12-2010, 04:30 AM

If its doing it while stopped it is most likely (like A Few Dollars pointed out) the steering shaft. Both issues are are common. I dont know what causes the steering shaft issue, but the CV joint is from a hole in the boot (or just extreme wear) which leads to joint failure. I wouldnt pass up an otherwise good priced clean truck for either issue, but I would use it to negotiate the price. Good Luck.

halfmoon · 03-12-2010, 05:49 AM

My 2004 GMC Yukon did the same thing. I found a new shaft by Dorman on Amazon for $46 I installed it in January and no more noise. If you do it yourself make sure you secure the steering wheel to the seat frame so the steering wheel won't spin, they say it will damage the clock spring. I moved the gas pedal to the side and R&R the shaft from inside the truck. It took about 1/2 hour.

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-425-176...4&sr=8-1-spell

richf · 03-12-2010, 06:30 AM

i say cv joint also. You can get a whole axel for like 150 with core charge

fish_on · 03-12-2010, 07:17 AM

Intermediate Steering Shaft. Known problem. Lubrication won't fix it. They have a new style out. I had mine replaced 3 times before I got the latest one and it has been good for 30K.

Easy to replace. Don't buy it from your dealer unless you want to pay twice as much. Order it from one of the online parts stores for GM and it will run you ~$60 - $70.

"Piece has 2 bolts that hold it in place, and 2 couplings. one is like a finger, goes into steering column, right under the dashbord. did not have to remove any pedals, access was nice and easy. 15mm socket.
2nd bolt secures this shaft to lower intermediate steering shaft inside engine bay. it was easier to pull shaft into passenger compartment, cardane joint won't let it go out into engine bay through bellow anyway.
i have not noticed any difference between the two parts. none. hopefully i got "improved" version. so far, clunk is gone."

Afishinado · 03-12-2010, 09:53 AM

Few dollars nailed it... I got mine on ebay (guy had dozens in stock) for under $100

nautiduck · 03-12-2010, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richf

i say cv joint also. You can get a whole axel for like 150 with core charge

He said its making the noise while sitting still, its not a CV joint.

A Few Dollars · 03-12-2010, 01:06 PM

Amazon.com has Dorman shafts for less than $50

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-425-176.../dp/B000Q0K5SQ

Afishinado · 03-12-2010, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richf

i say cv joint also. You can get a whole axel for like 150 with core charge

Trust us that have 'been there done that' It is the intermediate shaft A few$ posted the link to. For a year I swore it was something different, like a tie rod end or stabilizer bar bushing. Everytime it was on a lift getting an oil change. tires, whatever the tech and myself scrutinized everything in the front end. A little Google and this issue and shaft popped up all over the internet. Put it in, end of noise.

vettnman · 03-12-2010, 04:23 PM

I may not have to worry about this particular issue if the dude doesn't get serious about selling it. He's claiming multiple buyers are waiting to pay him cash for it. Fine, I told him to sell it and I wouldn't bother checking it out. "no, you've got first dibs on it" . Okay, checked her out and found a few issues with it. Made an offer today, told me he would call me back as he wanted to run that offer by someone else interested in the truck.??? Okay then... Waited for his phone call(said he would call back by 1230 today), finally got a message from him at 600. Offer rejected, wants me to call him tomorrow to see if we can work something out. Frankly, I've about had enough and as far as I'm concerned, he can sell the damn thing to one of these mystery buyers with cash in hand that are hiding in the bushes. Forgive my rant

Afishinado · 03-14-2010, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vettnman

I may not have to worry about this particular issue if the dude doesn't get serious about selling it. He's claiming multiple buyers are waiting to pay him cash for it. Fine, I told him to sell it and I wouldn't bother checking it out. "no, you've got first dibs on it" . Okay, checked her out and found a few issues with it. Made an offer today, told me he would call me back as he wanted to run that offer by someone else interested in the truck.??? Okay then... Waited for his phone call(said he would call back by 1230 today), finally got a message from him at 600. Offer rejected, wants me to call him tomorrow to see if we can work something out. Frankly, I've about had enough and as far as I'm concerned, he can sell the damn thing to one of these mystery buyers with cash in hand that are hiding in the bushes. Forgive my rant

Your 'hoe was gorgeous. Begining to wish we had talked when you had yours for sale, we may have been able to do a trade. Didn't know you were going to replace it with another older one. I prefer to buy them and run them to 150k and then do the switch, so I'm a still about a year out. There's plenty of them out there right now.

vettnman · 03-14-2010, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Afishinado

Your 'hoe was gorgeous. Begining to wish we had talked when you had yours for sale, we may have been able to do a trade. Didn't know you were going to replace it with another older one. I prefer to buy them and run them to 150k and then do the switch, so I'm a still about a year out. There's plenty of them out there right now.

Thx Afish, it was a beautiful SUV. Unfortunally, that payment was not so gorgeous, and I just flat out wasn't comfortable paying it anymore when it was just my wife driving it back and forth from work every day, and we're looking forward to having kids soon(hopefully). We found a nicely equipped 2001 Yukon 4wd SLT today for $7500. Here's a pic of it from today. One thing we have found out....the older tahoes/yukons that are in really good shape and priced right are selling like hotcakes. Literally, they are selling within a day or two of hitting the classifieds. We came close to buying 3 different tahoe/yukons in the last 2 weeks that were all in excellent shape and they all sold while we were looking at them. There's also a lot of new body style tahoes out there on the market, but most are overpriced as far as I can tell. I honestly think that the price of new hoes are driving people to buy up all the older, nicer ones out there.

Afishinado · 03-15-2010, 07:00 AM

I hear ya... Be interesting to hear your comments (as an owner) as to the differences between your 08 and the 01-06 you end up with. I love the look of the newer ones, and really like the 6 speed in the Denali/Escalades and now they are pairing it with the 5.3's

Will be sweet.
When I moved up to my current one from my 99LT to the Z71 I had two immediate dislikes. I miss the barn doors big time (didn't think it would matter), and I hate the roof rack (something I thought I would like). Only issue I know I am facing is I really want a bench seat in the 2nd row and no 3rd row. Haven't seen a LTZ or Denali with that set up, and will probably have to go with a LT or SLT.

encorebilly · 04-09-2010, 04:15 AM

If you take the bolt out and move the top shaft up and down a few times it will regrease itself,as the grease runs to the bottom over time,While it,s a temp fix iy will last 20 or so thousand miles.I,ve done mine twice and all is well.
Just make sure you keep both shafts in same position,don,t turn either shaft and also the bolt backs out as the nut is attatched.