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The engineer in me is looking for data. I have tried internet searches and came up with some antecdotal cases. Some mention of 2002 or so Chevrolet factory hitches, but no real evidence of issues. The few instances I checked out had a variety of causes (rusted welds, missing bolts, etc.). Some were aftermarket or motorhomes. Nothing compelling that this is problematic.
EVERY towing thread here has at least a couple of posters with "you are not using a weight distributing hitch, so it is going to fail" entries. I believe the vast majority of trailers over 5000lbs (including my 7000lb load with a 2 5/16" ball) are being pulled with hitches rated for only 5k unless weight distributed. With the number of trailers out there, this should be a common failure.
Really not interested in the failures of $6 trailer balls from Kmart. Looking for some facts around hitch failures.
OK folks, educate me. I need to see some facts, Let's see the data.
Thanks for helping to scope this issue.
Not necessarily, I have a class 5 reciever that is rated to 10k without a weight distributing hitch. I also have an after market bumper that is rated as a class 5 hitch. I dont use it because its to high but when some schmuck bent the hell out of my bumper, I figured why not. The mounting plates and the one that the ball mounts to are 1/2 steel plate mounted right to the frame.
Most of the accidents involving trailers are caused by poor driving, no trailer brakes, tire blowout, and improper weight distribution on the trailer resulting in trailer sway which leads to loss of control. Most hitches are engineered way beyond their intended rating, becuase the manufacturers know that Joe Dumbass is going to overload their product, and then sue when it fails. I havent seen any posts where someone says the hitch is going to fail, most of the posts seem to center on truck failure from being overloaded. Unless a hitch is subjected to sudden impact such as the tow vehicle hitting say a bridge embankment and stopping instantly, there really isnt enough force to cause a (class 3) hitch in good shape to fail. Maybe if someone tried to tow 7000k lbs on a class 1 hitch you would have catastrophic failure. As far as weight distributing hitches the physics of how they work actually puts more leverage and stress on the hitch. So there should be more chance of failure.
Nautiduck,
I agree with your post. Maybe I am misunderstanding what some are posting. Unless extremely poor welds, or missing bolts (and both these are easy to catch in production), hitch failure would seem to be a non-issue in the "need a weight distributing device" argument.
Crothers, are you familiar with how a weight distributing hitch works? Simply put the spring bars are tensioned by pulling the backs of them up toward the tongue of the trailer. Essentially because of the way they attach to the hitch, it lifts the back of the tow vehicle, putting more weight on the front wheels. It keeps the truck, trailer combo from sagging at the pivot point(the hitch). Its not making the hitch any stronger. They are designed to allow the proper tongue weight (10%) while helping lessen the squat. If you have a properly sized tow vehicle with proper weight balance, weight distributing hitches really arent necessary.
I recall reading about, and seeing lots of photos of, many failed trailer hitches on GM trucks in the early 2000's. Don't have any idea if it affected a significant percentage of them; obviously the folks posting about them did.
This is an example: http://oursuv.com/oldsubforum/Forum/...ges/28574.html
I have been in the towing business for 21 yrs and have not seen any hitch failures. I have 30 miles of I 10 in N fl to cover and I have seen campers flip and the hitch will still be intact ant the truck still hitched to the camper. Not sure what you wnat to know but if a hitch fails it would have to either a defect or some real HD abuse IMO
EVERY towing thread here has at least a couple of posters with "you are not using a weight distributing hitch, so it is going to fail" entries.
There are 2 5/8" balls with 1" shanks stamped for 10,000 lbs. You're collecting data for the wrong research question.
As Nautiduck and jhendric pointed out, it's a matter of control. WDH helps keep your front end from unloading at an awkward moment. How many trailer accidents can you find where the driver is described as "losing control of the vehicle"? I suspect that buried within that phrase is everything from drug use to load balance to icy roads to putting ten pounds of faeces in a five pound sack, as we're discussing here.
The only NEAR hitch failure I've seen is in the photos section of this site. The gentleman was struck head on while towing his boat. The hitch held until the trailer tongue "peeled" itself off of the ball mount and went into the truck bed!
My rig weights 12,000lbs. After reading that thread and staring at those photos, I ordered one of the last Putnam 15,000lb hitches they made with a 15,000lb mount and 15,000lb ball with a 1 1/4" shank. Bought the whole setup for less than $400.00.
Tires are your connection to the road, and the hitch is the connection to your rig. They are the least expensive, yet some of the most important things in the equation.
Buy the heaviest, Reese, Drawtite, Curt, Putnam, or other reputable manufacturer's gear available, install it to specifications, torque it to specifications, soak it in corrosion inhibitor, check that your rig weight and your tongue weight are within specifications, and don't give it a second thought (except to re-check the torque, reapply the corrosion inhibitor, and inspect the hitch periodically).
If you are just interested in statistics for the sake of statistics, I think the true cause of failure would be difficult to determine. As the previous posters pointed out, I think in the vast majority of situations where the hitch ends up distorted or destroyed, DRIVER failure (either to configure his rig properly, or to drive within his or his rig's limits) ultimately caused hitch failure.
Bottom line is -- mechanical failures documented or not-- if you tow over the mfg spec you WILL void your insurance in an accident. Not to mention putting others at harm on the roads. I personally dont want to self insure my truck, boat, liability to others. Still waiting for Chevy to address the lack of ANY hitch receiver that will allow my 2007 3/4 ton burb to pull its factory specs.
You rarely see actual reciever hitch failures, only time I,ve seen one was one of my workers put large skid steer to far forward on the trailer, trailer was a 5 ton equipment trailer , electric brakes, skid steer was around 8500lbs on a f-350 stock reciver hitch. the tongue weight was obviously too much and peeled the hitch frame right off the truck frame leaving the bolts still attached- ripped it like paper. Pretty scary he was lucky no one got hurt and he no longer is employed.Any way I would think it would be pretty tuff to break one if every thing is properly balanced. I tow way over may 15000 lbs hitch rating ( non- distrubuting) all the time , but only around back roads and very slow, and never with my boat at highway speeds where DOT could nail you and they will.
I do understand how weight distributing hitches work. Usually to the detrement of surge brake activation. I have no fear of hitch failure or loss of steering control with my setup. The rig is level, the tow vehicle sprung properly and has computer contolled anti-sway electronics (did have it trigger momentarily when I had to go in the ditch to avoid a head-on). Have towed for 30yrs and never an issue. Various trailers, weights and not with weight distributing. Including my car hauler with elect brakes.
CNTHINGS, I looked at my insurance policy and see no "overweight/towing" listed in the exclusions. Someone driving drunk at 100mph committing a felony driving offense is covered by insurance, what makes towing a "uninsured occurance".
Not trying to be difficult, just trying to seperate fact from fiction.
Thanks for posts so far. Informative (kindof).
I recall reading about, and seeing lots of photos of, many failed trailer hitches on GM trucks in the early 2000's. Don't have any idea if it affected a significant percentage of them; obviously the folks posting about them did.
This is an example: http://oursuv.com/oldsubforum/Forum/...ges/28574.html
After looking at your link and the susequent pictures of the hitch after a rollover accident. I dont see any hitch failure. It sounds like the guy had an accident and is looking to blame something else for his problems. The hitch in the pictures bent a little and some small cracks in the welds, but there is no catastrophic breakage. He doesnt mention anything about the connection coming apart in the accident. It looks like the hitch held up pretty well considering.
After 100,000 miles of towing a 3500# trailer, I broke both sides of the frame on a 1986 HD 1/2 ton truck. Didn't fail completely, just the bottom flange broke where it bends to vertical, about 6" long.
I work at a marina 75% of the year I have seen a lot as you might imagine. I know a team that pulls their 33t contender at least twice a week on a walmart 5000# ball and 5000# ball mount... I have also seen a 35ish old tiara get pulled out of the water in a dodge dakota on 5000# hardware. I told him to come get me and I'll do it with out aircraft puller from now on, but that shows people dont always follow the rules.... or even come close.
Just my two cents. I have a Seaswirl Striper 2601WA. I tow it with my 2007 F-250 SuperCrew Diesel. There is a hell of alot of difference with a WDH (Weight distribution hitch). It helps the truck ride more stable and prevents sway. That is my seat of the pants talking but i tow 250+ miles a way to LA,Ca a few times a year.
Another $0.02. I would rather exceed the towing capacity of my vehicle than the capacity of my hitch. Suspect many exceed both on a regular basis and few have hitch failures. I also have a Putman class V rated for 15,000lbs, using weight distribution increases it to 16,000lbs. Only downside is some reduced ground clearance.
The typical vehicle will come with factory hitch or owner will have the dealer or after market provider install what they have in stock. Class IV or Vs may have to be ordered but the additional wait time and cost may be well advised for some vehicle/towing applications. beans...
Crothers you are correct agent checked the policy for vehicle, liability wise and truck I am covered but not my boat or trailer. He is checking the other policies. Guess Ill look the other way like everybody else! More bummed that GM has all those 3/4 ton Subs / Yukons out there( 07 to current) without a Class V hitch receiver made for them-- id feel alot more comfortable.
CNTHINGS,
Thanks for checking. My F150 hitch say 5000/500tongue, but 11,150/1150 with weight distributing. Like most boats, I don't have a huge tongue load and it pulls perfectly level. so I am pulling the way it is. Sure would be nice to have the disclaimer "with weigt distributing" gone.
Happy miles.
Hitch Failures 
beans... 
