lowcountry-sc

It started with the occasional "thunk" when backing out of the driveway and then it proceeded to get worse whenever turning. I decided to replace both joints since I was going to have my truck tore down this far anyways. Moog balljoints with lifetime warranty were $150. I used the tool loaner program at O'Reily's and got the ball joint press and pickle fork from them. The other special tool I had to use was a large axle nut socket that I got a while back to change the hub bearing. According to the manual, you are supposed to take off the control arms and take them to a shop to have them pressed out and new ones pressed in. With a ball joint press, you can do it yourself and save a bunch of money. Leaving the shock connected allowed me to not have to unload the torsion bar. I did keep the jack underneath the lower control arm just in case. I am going to get new tires soon so it will be getting an alignment then. If I already had good tires on it, the first stop would be for an alignment. I searched everywhere for guidance on how to do this. Hopefully this will help anyone else interested in doing this.

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Start with getting the truck jacked up, supported, and tire off.

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Remove the brake caliper mount and tie the caliper out of the way.

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Remove the anti-sway bar.

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Remove the dust cap and axle nut.

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Now you can remove the halfshaft after unbolting it from the differential flange. Then it can be removed through the low control arm. I choose to index the halfshaft. Probably wasn't necessary but it can't hurt.

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Halfshaft out of the way.

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Using pickle fork to separate the balljoint from the steering knuckle.

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Now for the bottom. I had to beat this one like it owed me money. You can also see I disconnected the tie rod.

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Once I got the bottom joint separated. I removed the steering knuckle. I ended up having to loosen the bearing to get the ABS sensor out. So I just completely dissembled it which wasn't necessary. I carried away with the impact wrench I guess.

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Top joint came out with no problem.

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With the bottom joint, I had to knock 4 crimps back in. Here I have it half way out.

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Pressing the new one in.

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Got both joints back in and ready to start reassembling everything.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

signmansez

Just walked my neighbor through this repair. You don't need to remove the axle. You can get get at everything by just zip tying up and out of the way.

This is a pretty simple repair that will save you several hundred dollars over taking it to the dealer or local tech.

Great post.

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Bimini

"Many times life gives you the test, before you learn the lesson!"

Joe

Did you replace the tie rod ends as well?

JJR

Awsome write up. Im sure others will appreciate it. I just did this myself but my truck is about 10 years older than yours, same concept though.

lowcountry-sc

Tie rod end was still tight so I didn't replace it.

I have found two benefits to doing working on my truck myself, well maybe three:
Save money

I have found things that were done half ass or that are about to break that I can fix and save more money.

Great excuse to buy more tools.

stringer bell

i would do it just to get more toools!!!! thanks for the diy

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crothers

You-Da-Man.
Thanks for a great report and pics!!

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Don C

Nice job. I'm a tech but I do everything my self. From roof to basement, and bow to stern.

Don C

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