1400 miles and smoked em!! Where to buy replacements?

nmcclure · 11-26-2009, 08:59 AM

I had to move a boat from south FL to the texas coast, and over the trip, the poor Kodiak pads had enough. Rotors are too etched/rusted to resurface so they too will need replacing. Where should I go for replacement parts?

offshore3144 · 11-26-2009, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nmcclure

I had to move a boat from south FL to the texas coast, and over the trip, the poor Kodiak pads had enough. Rotors are too etched/rusted to resurface so they too will need replacing. Where should I go for replacement parts?

Call Kodiak you can get the parts from them. I got a set of their new pads from their parts dept....Mark

Bamaskeetshooter · 11-28-2009, 03:17 AM

Champion Trailer or Eastern Marine should have Kodiak parts in stock.

aero993 · 11-28-2009, 07:17 AM

Pacific trailers, had the best prices when I put new brakes on my trailer

http://www.pacifictrailers.com/kodia...ke-kits-parts/

Steve_250 · 11-28-2009, 07:27 AM

Odd as it may seem, but have you checked to see if NAPA can match them?
Their heavy duty parts are pretty good.

nmcclure · 11-28-2009, 09:52 AM

is going to the SS rotor worth it? or should I just stick with one of the coated sets?

Bigger Hammer · 11-28-2009, 07:22 PM

Do you know why the pads wore so quickly? They should last much longer than 1400 highway miles, but maybe they were well worn before you started? And rusted disks could certainly wear pads quickly, but I would think you'd see a lot of the rust removed before the pads went. I'd want to make sure there weren't any problems with the calipers/brackets/sliders before replacing everything else.
And do you know that the disks are so pitted that they can't be turned to clean them up? Last year we were given a car that had not been used, and was parked near a beach, for several years. The disks were very rusty. I expected to replace them, but the shop that did the brake job just turned them, and they're doing fine today. It might be worth double-checking yours if you're not certain.
As far as the Stainless disks, mine are 4 1/2 years old. There's no rust on the friction surfaces at all, and some minor surface rust here and there in other locations, but in general they look almost new. I'm very pleased with them. This picture was taken early this year:

The price of stainless has gone up over the last few years, and Kodiak's stainless hardware is way up there. If I was buying new brake parts I'd have a tough time swallowing the prices, but think I'd still do it. I've had boat trailers with drums and Tie Down disks in the past (not bashing Tie Down, I never had any particular problems with them), but can't imagine another set up as trouble-free as these have been.
Trouble-free reliability is what I want over everything else. Especially with brakes.
Bill

nmcclure · 11-29-2009, 09:32 AM

Bill those look great! I'm about to go snap some photos to show you what I was working with.

nmcclure · 11-29-2009, 04:30 PM

saltfever · 11-29-2009, 05:00 PM

I believe your best choice is to buy a total replacement package. We did this on a drum set on our EZ-Loader trailer 2 years ago. Once all new parts installed, sprayed them with corrosion protective film and so far no rusting. We feel your pain, sorry for the failures.

Bigger Hammer · 11-29-2009, 05:44 PM

That looks bad, but the even wear of the pads is a good sign. Did the brakes seem to work properly throughout the trip other than the pads going away?
Looks like 5K lb axles, and from what I see complete Stainless axle sets are going for ~$900. Stainless disks alone ~$375 each. I was thinking you could move to stainless a little bit at a time, but by the time you buy a disk and a bracket you've just about paid for the set, which means the caliper is just about free.
If you're trying to save some money I would bet that the disks could be re-used. Everything on the disks but the friction surfaces could be cleaned up quickly with a sandblaster, and a machine/auto parts shop could clean the rest up. Check the minimum disk thicknesses, it'll be cast into the disks.
I don't know how you use your trailer, this would be a real dilemma for me. If I remember right, my three axles worth of SS Kodiaks cost me just about what two axles would cost today. I think I'd go with the SS again just 'cause I didn't buy the boat and trailer to spend all my time working on it, although it sometimes seems that way.
I can just see the reports starting to come in from South Florida of people getting their brakes stolen off their trailers.
Good luck with this,
Bill

nmcclure · 11-29-2009, 06:23 PM

Bill,

Thanks for the advice. I really don't use the trailer all that much. As I've now moved 400 miles from the coast, the trailer is in a nice arid enviorment which looks like the desert and the boat is kept in a dry stack facility. That said, I will probably go with s-cad coating unless the stainless isnt too much more. I would estimate that the trailer will be dunked 4-6 times annually in salt and thats for out of town tournaments only. Now that it is not kept in salt air, I would hope that it will last longer.

I need to get the hub taken apart and check the axle, but they never once got warm supprisingly enough. They just are ugly as heck!

thundra · 12-09-2009, 10:36 AM

Here is what I learned/the theory on why pads on surge brakes will wear quicker, and I'll agree with this.

When one is going downhill and engages the brakes, then does not jerk the surge brake coupler forward to release the pressure on the pads, the pads will drag and thus, the quick wear on the pads.

Now, I don't doubt that rust could have been a contributing factor however, after a few braking events, the rust should disappear.

Then, with that said, rust won't be an issue with the Stainless Steel Kodiak rotors though if one brakes while going downhill, or at anytime, and does not "goose" the tow vehicle forward to release the "surge/brakes" then the pads will drag for what could be miles, thus the increased pad and resulting rotor wear.

BW23 · 12-09-2009, 11:00 AM

The pads are toast but the rotors only look rusty.

Why do you say you need new rotors ? Tough to tell from pics.

nmcclure · 12-09-2009, 11:09 AM

yea, the pictures are misleading. The rotors are heavily worn in the pad channels and the rusting on them is more than just surface. For the price to replace them, even with new SCAD, its a no brainer.

jhutches · 12-09-2009, 01:54 PM

I learned a trick a few years ago to help out. As soon as I leave the port from a salt water trip I go to the nearest fresh water ramp and back the boat down the ramp just enough to get the trailer covered. This takes almost all of the salt off. I use my boat and trailer a lot and I would rebuild my trailer about every two years. When I started doing this I did not have to rebuild it again. I also use spine lube axles instead of just bearing protectors. They are great also. I cannot tell you how much those two have helped me.

My .02