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Old 11-18-2009, 01:17 PM
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Default Please Help! Trailer light question

I have a relatively new(<1yr) trip axle trailor. Do not use it much expect to pull the boat to and from the dealer for service. All the lights worked in the past and i have been using the same truck and connection b/t truck and trailer since the begining.

This week, i hook up and dont have any running lights ( no reds at the rear and no yellows on the sides)..The blinkers work and the brake lights work when brake applied.

Anybody have any advise or an idea on where to begin looking for the problem? Pulling w/ an 06 Suburban 2500. Id really like to fix this on my own.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:36 PM
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It is probably a ground wire.
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Old 11-18-2009, 03:14 PM
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A friend of mine had the same problem this summer, He has a Toyota Tundra and it has a fuse in truck for the trailer lights.
Not sure what you have but maybe same problem??
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Old 11-18-2009, 03:29 PM
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The brown wire is usually for the tail lights. If the suburban is using a 7 pin connector, the upper left connector (looking into the plug) should be the tail light circuit. Confirm you have power to this connector with the lights turn on. If you do, trace the brown wire on the trailer to look for fraying or a pinch somewhere.
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:49 PM
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Check to see if you still have dashboard lights. GM puts the tail lights and dash lights on the same fuse to let you know you have a problem. If no dash lights you have a blown fuse and a short. I've seen new trailers with marker lights installed pinching the hot wire. Sometimes a PITA to find.
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:36 PM
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For two or three bucks you can get a 12v light tester at pep boys or whatever. Check the first pin from the ground ( I think, but it's the brown wire) on the truck side connector with the parking lights on. If it doesn't light up, you probably have a blown fuse. But you might have to find out why the fuse blew.
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Old 11-19-2009, 04:23 AM
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Start with spraying some WD40 (or like product) on BOTH the male and female connectors. Let them set for a few minutes while the WD40 does it's thing then plug and unplug the ends say 5 or 6 times. My guess is they will now be working fine.

I go through this issue once in a while and as mentioned like a ground or just not good contact in the connector. Give it a shot.
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Old 11-19-2009, 12:01 PM
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Get a good volt meter and check for voltage at the plug. I say volt meter not test light cause I am ol school and if voltage is below 12 it indicates a problem where a test light may still light. If you google it you can find a diagram showing which wire does what on a 7 pin standard plug. If truck has 12 volts work back I would start at rear of trailer and work forward. Your tail lights and brake lights share a ground so if they are working I doubt it is a ground problem.

Here is a link showing what wire does what.

http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/trailerlights.html
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Old 11-19-2009, 02:07 PM
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Many chev (my 99 silverado) and my f250 that came with 7 wire trailer circuts have a seperate fuse in the engine compartment fuse box, not just under the dash. Can't recall if it being blown will cause your scenario.
Felt like a fool in 99 when I took mine to the chevy garage and they opened the hood and replaced the fuse.
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Old 11-19-2009, 02:53 PM
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Thanks for all the pointers guys. The ground was the first thing i check, its good as are all of my fuses. Im gonna hook up to the trailer tonight try all suggestions above until i get it straightened out. I will let yall know what i figure out. I really appreciate it
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Old 11-19-2009, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingair View Post
It is probably a ground wire.
No, the other lights work. All the lights use the same ground wire.
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Old 11-19-2009, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike343 View Post
For two or three bucks you can get a 12v light tester at pep boys or whatever. .
For a few dollars more you can get a tester designed specifically to test the trailer socket. This tells if the problem is with the tow vehicle or with the trailer.

Another way is to swap out either the tow vehicle or the trailer with one belonging to a friend or neighbor.
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Old 11-19-2009, 04:45 PM
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Ok,

Listen carefully,


Underhood fuse box. Your looking for a few fuses. Chances are itll be a 20AMP

Anywho- Heres the fuse codes, you will see these on the back of the fusebox cover.

TRLPARK

If not Check RRPARK and LRPARK.

Typically from what you are saying this is very common of the running lights fuse for the trailer blowing. In almost all I have seen its a 20AMP. Pull it and check with a meter.

Good Luck and carry a spare always!

http://www.extendedgmwarranty.com/ow...t-Suburban.pdf

if you need more info just check this out. Page 482 of 536
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Old 11-19-2009, 07:37 PM
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I have a 05 Z71 and it has blown a fuse three times now which causes the running lights not to work. It also causes the cigarette lighter not to work also. I think it is a 15 amp one that is under the hood driver side in front of firewall under the cover.
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheesegrits View Post
I have a 05 Z71 and it has blown a fuse three times now which causes the running lights not to work. It also causes the cigarette lighter not to work also. I think it is a 15 amp one that is under the hood driver side in front of firewall under the cover.
How many more times will it blow before you start looking for the problem?

There's something wrong electrically with your tow vehicle or trailer. Fix it before you're left out on the road at night in the cold rain or snow with no lights.
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:20 AM
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Post 50 how do you know it is a problem on the truck side? Before he goes chasing fueses he needs to test the truck with a volt meter. That is and always should be step 1. No need to even take the time to hook the boat up.
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Old 11-20-2009, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHAMROCK69 View Post
..........Before he goes chasing fueses he needs to test the truck with a volt meter. That is and always should be step 1. No need to even take the time to hook the boat up.
Many people would not know how to test the socket with a volt meter. That's why I suggested a dedicated trailer socket tester. Here's one:




Quote:
LED 7-Way Round RV Blade Connector TesterAnalyzes tail light turn signal and ground connections and confirms them with bright LED's
http://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufactu...8736870&sr=8-1
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Old 11-20-2009, 12:48 PM
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I said this WAY back.... test the brown wire at the tow vehicle plug with the lights on. If you have 12 volts there, the problem is in the trailer plug / wiring. If you do not have 12v at the brown wire at the tow vehicle plug, than check vehicle fuses as well as that wire & circuit on the tow vehicle.
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Last edited by demjjm; 11-20-2009 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 11-20-2009, 12:54 PM
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You were correct. It does not sound like the OP has done this yet. This question seems to come up frequently, has anyone seen an online how to trouble shoot your trailer lights?
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Old 11-20-2009, 04:54 PM
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I have the same age trailer and when I first took delivery, one of the trailer wires (brown) was pinched between the trailer and the wheel well. This caused a fault and the fuse blew in the engine compartment. Replaced fuse and it blew again. Found the pinched wire and fixed it. No more problem.

Fast forward 6 months, same exact problem on the other side of the trailer. Fixed that one and no more problems. The pinched wires were the ones leading to the marker lights on the fenders. Good luck!
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